Bodega Bay

Are you wondering what our bike tour of Napa & Sonoma is like? My first DuVine ‘tour of California’ experience was this past June – perhaps my travelogue from that trip might help….

Day 1: I have to admit, after a day like today, I wonder why I ever left the West Coast. I can’t quite articulate what “it” is…but the views and vistas along Pacific coastal route 1 are enviable and inspiring – especially on bike. Today was no exception [I'm sure Les, Pat, Mark and Marianne would second my notion.] Lucky are our guides, Fred and Fana who get to experience this on a regular basis!

1st ride along Bodega Bay

After leaving the urban sprawl of the city, we emerged 90 minutes later in the serene and remote coastal region of Bodega Bay (a la we’re not in San Francisco anymore – and, in many ways, a rather enchanted place itself). Sweeping vistas of the Bodega Bay and Doran Beach dominate the landscape, and are bordered by a endless wildlife reserve – that includes a bird sanctuary which makes for some great viewing…as well as the slowest-moving deer I’ve ever encountered!

We all headed out for our preliminary ride…which included some serious wind (let’s just say the kiteboarders in Bodega Bay were definitely loving life!) along route 1 and Bodega Bay. A short but sweet ride to kick off our on ‘tour of Northern California’. Although, lucky for us, no category climbs or grueling days of racing await us, just more of the same…great company, amazing scenery, and some serious food and beverages!

Day 2: Bright sunshine and a cloudless sky greeted us upon waking this morning as we breakfasted overlooking Bodega Bay. After a brief encounter with a wild turkey and some playful rabbits outside the hotel, we were off to begin our 60 mile ride up the coast, through the forest and into Sonoma Valley.

With Fana our guide leading the way, Les and Mark joined me for the first rolling section along the rugged route 1 coast…a picture-perfect day along the Pacific. I may be impartial in my estimation [as I am a coastal person at heart] but this, by far, was the best and most impressive scenery of the day – not to be missed! Fresh salt air and sea breeze kept us cool as we rode along this endless stretch of undeveloped shore. Just water, uninhabited land, cows and the occasional surfer van as far as the eye could see.

Hop Kiln winery

We met up with the rest of the group at a funky cafe in the small town of Duncan Mills for a quick coffee and then Marianne and Pat joined us on bike for a ride through redwood forests to a well-earned and very satisfying picnic lunch in the Armstrong Redwoods State Park underneath the sun filtered shadows of these colossal trees.

Onward and upward…another 15 miles brought us to our 1st stop at the Hop Kiln winery…for a private tasting outside on the grounds with a rather unique and entertaining character, Don, who shared some great stories and insider info on California wines. And for those of us who braved the last 5 miles (after the tastings…) we made it back to the Madrona Manor for a quick dip in the pool and some lounging time in the sun.

Dinner in Guerneville

Dinner was an absolutely fantastic Italian meal in downtown Guerneville with our waiter Martin (also a photographer who was willing to snap some great photos) and another private tasting with guest, Mike…who shared with us some rare, smaller produced wines…and a first tasting of a yet to be released Zinfandel! An amazing end to an incredible day.

Day 3: Today truly felt like a stage…an extended one at that! What started out as an intended 50 mile max ride, ended up a 60+ whirlwind of steep climbs and a race to the finish.

The day started with a quick ride through the heart of Sonoma and Dry Creek Valley…endless rows of vineyards along traffic-free country roads…to our first stop at Quivira Vineyard – a bio-dynamic (aka ‘organic’) winery. After a tour of the bountiful grounds (it is also an organic farm and includes everything from flowers, vegetables and herbs to chicken for eggs, goats for cheese, and of course, pigs…[I needn't mention what the fate of one of those will become this coming fall]…as the vineyard also hosts dinners which include all ingredients produced on the farm.

view of Lake Sonoma

After a tour and tasting at Quivira…we headed off to see Lake Sonoma. A missed turn and an epic climb later…Les and I finally made it back down to where we were supposed to meet the rest of the group at the overlook point above Lake Sonoma. (whoops!) Although, we both agree, the unexpected (and seemingly endless climb) was the best detour of the day!! Remember that one, folks…a challenging climb is always best served impromptu.

And if that weren’t enough…after lunch in the active town of Healdsburg, Les and I headed out for more. Another unforeseen climb and 25 miles later, our ‘domestique’ Fred carried us along the final stretch home at a 20+ pace…(and, yes…both Les and I were on hybrids!!) It was a great day of adventure and stage-worthy riding.

Needless to say…we were quite hungry upon returning and hadn’t but 20 minutes to get ready for dinner. We couldn’t have asked for a better meal to top the day off – some incredible haute cuisine at Dry Creek Kitchen and the lively square bustling with people and live music. What a day it was!

Day 4: The road to Napa…is paved with vines. And it is truly astonishing how endless the rows of grapevines extend. Day Four took us on our journey from the country quiet of the Alexander Valley to the ‘bustling’ little town of St. Helena in Napa Valley. A rather comical greeting awaited us upon crossing the line into Napa – the “Welcome to Napa Valley’ sign (usually a picture-perfect shot to photograph) had a port-o-potty marring the view! You’d think there would have been a bit of foresight in its placement…perhaps a scosh to the side? Nonetheless, a rather amusing sight..

Jimtown Store

Our first 30 miles were spent on a ride through the Alexander Valley, with a quick pit stop at the vintage Jimtown store – a great little throwback to the old school days – with some incredible homemade food (including a to-die-for fig/olive spread!)

Stopping for a visit at Fieldstone Winery was a treat. Probably one of the best tours I’ve experienced was with their winemaker Pat – who gave a unique and fascinating tour of their small vineyard which has been in the same family for generations. A sampling of Fieldstone wines (or should I say…a blind taste-test per Mark’s suggestion) turned out to be great fun – with a picnic lunch following on the grounds of the vineyard.

Back on the road again to Napa – and another 25 or so miles later – including the best downhill so far (yes, it was a bit of a steep climb to earn…but well worth it) – we arrived in St. Helena. A post-ride beer and off to change for dinner in town.

Rounding off the night was a visit to the local bar, the Cantina, for some drinks…and to celebrate Mark’s impressive riding ability. Barely on a bike before the trip, he has managed to hang with us on every extended ride option – logging some major hours on the bike. A great celebration in his honor.

Day 5: Calistoga here we come….right back we started from (Inn at Southbridge) – with some great stops and some serious headwind along the way.

Day 5 in the tour of California made for some great laughs…and some serious wind action! I’m not sure how the wind kept changing direction to consistently remain a headwind (especially since we were doing an out-and-back ride), but manage it did. All I can say is that it is great to have a 6′7″ guide in front of the pack – and I will, without reservation, declare myself a full-on wheelsucker on that ride! Many, many thanks to you, Fred, for the pull.

visiting Opus 1

It was a ride that included a spontaneous stop at Opus 1 – a unique setting with gorgeous grounds. After a tasting and some inquiries/laughs about the infamous Robert Mondavi, the group split for lunch – Mark and Marianne headed to Auberge de Soleil for a lunch on the terrace [and what a lovely terrace it is!] and the rest of us enjoyed some local color at restaurant in Calistoga. Then it was homeward bound, into the ubiquitous headwind and back to the hotel for a bit of downtime and sunshine by the spa’s lap pool.

Our last night was again, full of laughter, with a cocktail hour slide show of our travels and exploits – and presentation of our earned nickname gifts and gags. I was blessed with the polka dot jersey emblazoned with the name ‘Double D’ [now that's a story you'll have to ask about...]

Rounding off the night was an incredible dinner at Cindy’s Backstreet Kitchen in downtown St. Helena – with champagne toasts and much ado about everything. A fantastic and lively end to wonderful week.

One last ride awaited us the next morning before we all hopped in the van and headed back to San Fran and off our separate ways.

I think I speak for my fellow travel mates when I say that many fond memories were made, new friendships were forged, many laughs were had, and the elusive remains of Robert Mondavi and the oak barrel, are, as of yet, still unknown. Perhaps we will all meet for a reunion tour and toast the legend with the bottles of Opus 1 that were purchased?

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