On the road to Montefalco

After spending a few days in Tuscany – I was mentally prepared to drive South to begin creating our new  Umbria Bike Tour.

I had no expectations – good or bad. In my mind, the only thing I wondered was whether it was just going to be another Tuscany? I had heard it was Tuscany…only flat and all green… but would the food be as good?…the wines?

The further I got away from Tuscany, the closer I felt ‘at home’. Do not get me wrong – I LOVE TUSCANY – it is heaven, a picture perfect region with all the ingredients for an amazing vacation and experience. I love my Tuscany, but Umbria was truly a home away from home.

One thing I can say is that Umbria has some of the best food in Italy that I have ever eaten – hands down. From dipping fresh bread in the olive oil, to the fresh fruits, vegetables and meats – it was out of this world! [or perhaps I should just say – real Umbrian]

Maybe it was the timing…the light…the sun…or whatever but Umbria hit me right in the heart – something magical happened. It was a very visceral reaction. Umbria has everything I like: it is real – not overly-hyped or touristy – and everywhere you go, you encounter the locals (both young and old) hanging out in town centers talking shop. Umbria is a place that makes you feel as if time travel were possible – returning to a time where you can ride through vineyards, olive groves and medieval hill towns that time forgot and tourism has hardly touched.

Biking between the villages

Honestly, there isn’t a tourist in sight…just miles of rolling hills and very old villages which seem much older than Tuscany. Add to that, locals who are so warm and welcoming, incredible food and [I must confess] outstanding wines!

I knew that I wanted to start the trip from the gorgeous hill town of Trevi and bicycle all the way to Assisi, weaving through the small roads and villages, tasting wines and learning about culture and history. My intimate experience continued as I cycled through the legendary towns and untouched villages of Spello, Montefalco, Deruta, Torgiano and Bevagna.

I tasted some of the best wines and olive oils around the village of Montefalco, met such gentle sweet people throughout the various towns, and the hotels were all over the top.

What struck me most about Umbria was how old each village was – much older than Tuscany. But I was also struck by how hard the earthquake had hit Assisi. Imagine a village built hundreds of years ago – completely unprepared and certainly not designed to sustain the kind of structural damages that tremors can cause. To this day there is still a great deal of rebuilding happening, as evidenced by the cranes.

The amazing part of this trip is that in Assisi, you have the opportunity to view all of the tremendous art and architecture created in homage to St. Francis, the town’s most famous native son – including works by some of the greatest artists of the Early Renaissance, like Giotto, Cimabue and Simone Martini.

Needless to say, it was a magical trip to create because it all fit on the canvas and flowed naturally from wine villages, through small market towns, to the historical site of Assissi. I think this is the perfect blend for our travelers – and the best way to experience the real deal of Umbria, like a local – not a tourist! Sometimes in the business things click, and they really did for me while creating this trip in Umbria.

I highly recommend this DuVine bike trip to anyone on my list – Umbria is a must and the cycling roads are epic.

Last but not least, I have to mention the hotels – WOW were they romantic! Gorgeous…with perfect locations and definitely something to remember. Actually, they are some of the best DuVine hotels: starting with Villa Zuccari.

This large villa is surrounded by the vineyards of Montefalco and has been the Zuccari family’s residence since the end of the 16th century. The current owner, Paolo Zuccari, has transformed it into a Relais de Charme. The pool is gorgeous and perfect after a day of cycling. And a short walk brings you to the tiny village and where you can speak with locals on the town bench.

L’Orto degli Angeli is absolutely amazing. It is situated in the picturesque walled village of Bevagna, in the heart of Umbria. This beautifully restored historic residence is comprised of two ancient dwellings: Palazzo Alberti and Palazzo Andreozzi which are connected by a hanging garden. The restaurant is in the ruins of an ancient Roman theatre and temple. The vaulted underground room, which was a part of the two thousand year old theatre, serves as the dining room of the restaurant – creating an unforgettable dining experience.

Le Tre Vaselle, a 5 star hotel, is a 17th century building that rises within the medieval walls of Torgiano, a peaceful village set in the heart of the Umbrian countryside. In fact, hotel founder, Giorgio Lungarotti is a legend in Italy and in the wine-industry world-wide for creating the DOCG Rubesco wine here in the 1970’s. The dinner was one of the best dinners I have ever had in Italy!

I know that I may be partial [having created the tour myself] – but I truly believe this to be a not-to-be-missed DuVine bike tour!

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