Rioja

Rioja rocks!

Although, perhaps I should not divulge this secret (despite being DuVine Adventure’s Marketing Manager) …as I’d prefer to keep this region to myself. Yes, I just returned from a picture perfect week on a bike tour to Rioja Spain and can’t stop raving about how amazing this epic countryside is. Imagine the perfect cycling road…rolling green hills, brilliant azure sky, snow capped mountains in the distance, miles and miles of open road without a car [or anything else, really] in sight until you happen upon a medieval village with its castle rising above the landscape of a land frozen in time. And that’s just the cycling! Just wait until you taste the wine…

Let me just preface by saying that this was much more than just a pleasant surprise (as it was nothing like what I expected). I’m not sure why my imagined perception was so lack luster…but in this case, perception certainly was not reality…actually quite the antithesis! I was absolutely stunned by how amazing this area truly is.

Perhaps one of the most important features to highlight about Rioja is how stunning the landscape is – almost surreal with its vibrant hues of emerald and chartreuse wheat fields undulating in the breeze, virtually cloudless azure skies, ferrous-rich red clay soil and snow white capped mountains rising above the empty asphalt roads. This, I wasn’t expecting….maybe Tuscany or Sicily…but not Spain, right?

Epic roads

From day one, as we drove out from the urban expanse of Madrid and headed into the countryside, the landscape was ever changing – the only constant was a range of mountains (and although different ranges – a ubiquitous presence nonetheless) – and even those varied in the amount of snow covering their peaks. I have to admit, if you have to endure a long road trip in the van…it definitely helps to have scenic vistas to distract you! Actually, the ride isn’t that bad (and it is the longest of the trip so you get it over with in the beginning) – 3 hours from Madrid to Abalos. And, as aforementioned,  not only is the scenery captivating…but there is also plenty of time to catch a nap if you have arrived that day like our family from California…or are still suffering a bit of jet lag from your hop across the pond.

Van 1 and van 2 (as they familiarly became labeled) caravanned along the highway…we stopped midway along the route for a quick coffee and a chance to finally meet our fellow travelers. 2 sets of friends from Canada, a family from California, and me – lucky 13! Well, add to that our tag team of guides: Pablo, Marcus and Oliver…and you had the makings for what became an incredibly fun and exciting adventure! We soon began realize that we had a true comic genius along who was truly entertaining and kept us laughing daily. I can’t thank Marius enough for providing a wonderful sense of comic relief and for being such a pleasant traveling companion. It certainly helped to have some partners in crime along. Yes, in addition to practicing my lapsed Spanish, I was introduced to a whole new vocabulary throughout the week.

Marius on the road

As you can surmise… what a week it became! Great company, epic riding, delicious Rioja wines and some of the best guides by our side, fulfilling our every need – what more could you ask for?

It all began in Abalos…where we arrived at our hotel, had time for a quick change and then headed out for our first foray on the roads of Rioja. Honestly, I don’t think we encountered a single car on that ride as we cycled astride along the empty country roads. There was just plenty of rolling terrain and a steep climb back into town for a well earned cocktail outside on the patio of the hotel, where we were bathed in sunshine. Plates of Manchego cheese, selected hams, olives, etc…and of course…bottles of their own vino tinto from the vineyard.

And like a fine wine, our days just kept improving with time…

Every day became a new adventure as we traversed the remote and romantic countryside – climbing and descending the rolling green hills. The general consensus (and long-standing joke) was that Pablo had a very unique interpretation of what a ‘flat’ road consisted of…apparently there are some really flat hills in Spain?! Lots of laughter filled the days as friendships were forged both on the road and over glasses of vino and plates of tapas.

Castle view

Need we forget, it is not all about these perfect cycling roads. The land itself is rich in history…and the landscape is dotted everywhere with remnants of the past. From medieval castles looming high above the surrounding valleys, walled cities that remain seemingly untouched by time, to the ever-present ancient architectural marvels – aqueducts, monasteries, abbeys and gothic cathedrals along the way – this is a fascinating place. You truly feel as if you have been transported back to antiquity…a time traveler meandering through a lost world…becoming part of that history.

Be it these man-made structures or natural formations…beauty abounds. Just take a walk through the Yecla Gorge or hike down to see the Hoces de rio Duraton Natural Park. (I’m sorry, have I mentioned how impressive the landscape is?) Honestly…I think that you, too, will share my sentiment and find that whatever you may be imagining…really isn’t as stunning as is the Rioja reality.

Oh, and did I mention the wine? Hmmm…maybe that’s one of the secrets I should keep to myself?

Muse Dinastai Vivanco

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• Rioja by bike (duvine.com)

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