Deborah has been on tours to six different destinations with DuVine Adventures including, bike tours in Europe and bike tours in South America and enjoyed all of them. A leisure cyclist who travels more for the cultural experience and beautiful scenery, she understands that some people may be a bit nervous about going on anything other than an Easy rated tour. After her recent bicycle trip to Umbria, Deborah shared her thoughts to dispel the nervousness of people like her who just want to enjoy the experience in relaxation.
As a non-cyclist I was unsure of what to expect heading on a week-long cycling vacation. What I found with DuVine’s bike tour in Umbria was complete flexibility and options for all ability levels. Eating, drinking, and exploring the local cultures are as much what the week is about as the cycling, which was designed to enjoy the country-side on quiet roads. With this bike, eat, drink sleep philosophy it is possible to enjoy any DuVine destination, though unless you don’t plan to bike at all, I would generally start by choosing a tour to match my cycling ability. There are plenty to choose from: Loire, Bordeaux and Portugal, for example, are all Easy rated tours. Umbria, while rated Moderate, is a large valley making the cycling not as difficult as I’d expected. Many of the towns are perched on the sides of the valley, making for a beautiful setting, and adding some hills to each ride. For those with partners who like an extra challenge there is a great long ride on the last day, however the majority of the cycling was in the valley and very manageable.
Overlooking the Valley
I planned to cycle as much as I could and prepared by going to spin classes and getting out on a bike for a few weekends before the tour. There really is nothing like actually getting on a bike to get used to balance and learning to change gears going up and down hills. While DuVine includes the choice of either a hybrid or road bike, I would not take the road bike with its thinner tires and bent over handle bars unless you are used to this style of cycling, they are designed for the experienced cyclist and speed. The hybrid bikes we had were top of the line with 21 gears and very comfortable memory foam seats. We had a few novice cyclists in my group and a number who had requested the extra gel seats, but most agreed that the memory foam made for better butt positioning and ultimate comfort. Pedal options are given in advance, most novice cyclists pick the flat pedal, the other choice is a loose toe cage option to slip your foot into. The more experienced cyclists will generally bring their own clip-on shoes and pedals, which the guides will fit for them.
Beautiful Sunrise in Umbria
Before getting on the bikes our guides gave us each fittings to ensure the correct seat height, helmet adjustment, etc. All of the equipment is included. The DuVine cycle jerseys were great with their back pockets to keep a small camera or store your mobile phone (in case of emergencies). I did find a jacket and gloves were useful for early morning starts in the cooler Autumn weather. Each rider also has a bike bag on the front of the bicycle, which is a good size for holding all the little things you might need during the day such as a wallet or sunscreen. They also equipped with the route map for those who want to know where they are or wish to cycle ahead, and can even be taken off the bikes and used as a bag while touring. If you think you’ll spend more time off the bike a small back pack with extra items or a clothing change can be put in the in van, which is always close at hand.
Enjoying the Ride in the Valley
The guides gave us a clear safety talk before we started, explaining how to ride in traffic with Italian drivers. They actually are very good at sharing the road with cyclists. They explained how to take the down-hills and described the route ahead. It was very reassuring having the guides on-hand at all times, one on a bike and one in the van, letting us know where to make the next turn and taking photos as we cycled, allowing us to really enjoy the scenery. They were there to handle anything from the occasional flat tire, to gear change tips, to an extra push up a hill. And the van was always nearby for those who wanted a break.
Days are designed with regular stops, giving guests plenty of non-cyclist options. Day One starts with an introductory ride. In Umbria you head up to Trevi, a quaint Medieval town on the side of the hill, for a typical leisurely Italian lunch, our group all transferred up as the annual Celery festival was in full swing, most groups cycle up but the van is always there for those who don’t want to start the week with a climb, and it was downhill after lunch.
Italians love their food and this tour gives guests plenty of opportunities to enjoy it as well. Menus typically have multiple courses. Umbrian’s eat an unsalted bread, which they dip in their fresh tasty olive oil… heavenly. Italian meals usually start with an antipasto course, generally a mix of various meats and some cheeses, prosciutto, capocollo, salami etc. Their Primo course is generally pasta, risotto or maybe pizza. The Secondo will then be meat or fish, though as Umbria is land bound the latter was not generally one of the options selected for us. If you order from a menu note that the Contorno or vegetable/salad side dish is usually served separately rather than with the meat. The Dolce or dessert would be a cake, maybe a tiramisu, or zabaglione style dish, of course you can always do as the locals and head out for a gelato with friends. We generally had a set menu, which chefs prefer, so dietary restrictions should be noted in advance. In Italy the meal ends with a short espresso, or caffé corretto with a shot of grappa, or for a delicious digestif try limoncello. Know that in Italy if you want the watery style coffee that is drunk in North America you have to ask for caffé Americano, while cappuccino and caffe latte are only drunk at breakfast. My favourite is the macchiato, an espresso stained with a spoonful of frothed milk. Buon appetito!
For those that know they don’t want to spend too much time on the bike, Umbria is filled with little towns to explore and plenty of off bike activities. Day Two, for example, consisted of an easy ride to Montefalco where we took an olive oil tasting in the oldest establishment in town. Olivio & Daniela, who make their own oils, were very generous and informative. We were there in mid-October and they had just picked and pressed their olives so the oil was still green and so fresh. All oils become yellow with age regardless of how they are stored – heat is the worst thing for oils, they are best stored in a cool dark place. It was interesting to taste the various blends, similar in many ways to a wine tasting. From there we took another short cycle to the Antonelli winery, where we were taken on a tour of its production facilities followed by a lunch with wine parings. Again, the host was very informative, explaining each wine and why it had been served with each course. After lunch we were given cycling choices, an easy ride, transfer, or a more challenging route via another picturesque hilltop village. There’s always an option for everyone.
Interior of a Cathedral
Day Three included a visit to the Gothic city of Assisi. The pace was again easy in the valley. Our ride took us to Santa Maria degli Angeli, which houses the tiny church built by St. Francis, and known as the Porziuncula. It was a calming and serene experience. There was usually some traffic entering/exiting the main towns but most of the riding was on small quiet roads. We transferred up to Assisi to avoid the traffic, and were given the choice of a tour or free time to explore at leisure. The Basilica is amazing and there was so much to see in the town. Our fourth day included a cooking class, one of the highlights of the tour, with Tres Vaselle’s amazing chef Domenico. He showed us local secrets such as how to make his amazing pasta.. we learned some great dinner party tricks too. Our lunch that followed included the results of our labour. Many took the afternoon off at Tres Vaselle to enjoy the hotel facilities, spa, sauna and massages, while there was also the option to visit Deruta and a local pottery factory. Orvieto was the highlight of Day Five, and while it was a big ride the van was at our call the entire way. Our group included a mix of abilities and some decided they would rather spend the full day in Orvieto and took an early transfer. For a non-cyclist this can be done at any time, distances in Umbria are not that far and a taxi can easily be arranged for you if you choose to take an excursion on your own. Orvieto has a stunning Duomo in its town square, the cathedral dates from 1290 and the black and white marble stripping of its main body and stunning mosaic façade is impressive. If you spend the day there you’ll find plenty to do with all the churches, museums and many alleys of shops, or if you have the extra time take the opportunity to tour the underground catacombs.
Our hotels throughout the trip were wonderful with lots of character. It was a joy to sit down with new friends at the end of each day for an aperitif and relax with great company. Villa Zuccari was charming with painted walls and gorgeous items displayed everywhere. The owner was lovely and made scrumptious breakfast cakes, she really treated us as her guests. L’Orto Degli Angeli was as old as the Roman town it was located in; Bevagna a charming town. The hotel is comprised of two parts connected with a bridge into a central garden, a wonderful place to sit for a drink during balmy summer months. The hotel is owned & lived in by a noble family and is really very special, while dinner the first night is in part of the old Roman Amphitheater, a gorgeous setting with lots of atmosphere. Tres Vaselle in Torgiano offers great relaxation towards the end of the week with its 5 star facilities, the interior was the more modern of the properties that we stayed at, giving us variety throughout the week. Many took advantage of the spa, while the final wine tasting in their cellar was most prestigious.
Umbria has something for everyone, for every level of cycling. You can choose to simply explore in your own time, soaking up the history, art and culture of the region, or take advantage of the extra rides that are always offered. A bit of biking justifies all the eating and drinking! It’s your adventure to enjoy – mine was simply divine!
