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November 4, 2011

Guide Post: Building a Bike Tour of Brittany

Lighthouses, sunsets, crêpes, and Caramel au Beurre Salé. Brittany is an excellent destination for a French bike tour for food lovers, those in search of beautiful scenery, and everyone in between.

Bretagne as it is known to the French, has its charm in the old world style with its villages filled by rows of stone houses surrounded by extremely well kept gardens.  There is color wherever you look: brightly painted shutters, soft green fields, hollyhock, hydrangeas, fishermens’ nets, well-kept boats and the sailors that navigate them. The mix between old villages and coastal harbors allows travelers to experience both the fields of the region and the views of the sea.

Bike Tour Brittany

Sunrise on the Water

The biking is pretty easy and the locals say the biggest challenge is the easterly wind, but as long as we have it at our back (and the trip is designed to allow just that) we’ll be smooth sailing. For anyone looking for a relaxing bike ride along beautiful coastlines, this is the place for you. When the breeze is just right, the crisp air soothes the senses and leaves you wanting to just cycle on and on.

We have visited many beautiful seaside towns full of fishing boats and ancient lighthouses, still a pride of the area even though they are seldom used for what they once were, lifesavers. At each one, we stop to enjoy the views and take in the smells of the sea.

Bike Tour Brittany

One of Many Stone Houses

The food is simple but delicious, with only local ingredients: catch of the day, crayfish, sardines, thin pancakes also known as crêpes, chocolates, salted caramel, baked & caramelized sugar cake, the list goes on and on.  It’s all so good. The mix of fresh seafood and tasty dessert treats leave us all watering at the mouth wishing our stomachs could handle twice the amount.

The first hotel we found to start the tour, Villa Tri Men, is a nautical themed comfort zone that is the perfect setting for some of the best sun rises you’ll ever witness.  The morning couldn’t be any more relaxing when sitting and looking out over the water where the boats all rest with their sails flowing in the soft wind. The gleaming sun’s rays bounce of the water and brighten the sky, leaving long shadows behind the autumn colored trees.

As we work our way southeast, down the Finistere coast we’ll be witnesses to the French wild coast that few foreigners know about.  It is the French’s best kept secret to date.  Tomorrow we will see Vannes and Belle Ile, and the next day will include Guerande (famous for their salt) and le Croisic. It looks like this weekend is going to be full of great treats.  We are really excited about this new bike tour in Brittany and it joins a long list of DuVine’s famous bike tours in France.

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October 31, 2011

DuVine Apres Velo – Paris

Our Apres Velo series is meant to give readers and active travelers insight into places they can visit before or after a bike tour with us. When traveling in France, the obvious place to check out is Paris. Paris is one of the most famous cities in the world, so instead of telling you to check out the Eiffel Tower, we are going to tell you about some less obvious, yet still amazing, places to visit.

Bike Tour France

Gorgeous View at Night

These locations are not obscure, but they may fall a little lower on the “to do” list than the Arc de Triomphe. That being said, we do think you should walk up the 1,665 steps of the Eiffel Tower. Paris is such an incredible city that you should give yourself plenty of time to explore everything that sounds interesting, not just the typical tourist spots.

Located on the river Seine, Paris is one of most beautiful and romantic cities in the world. The Jardin des Tuileries is a reason for that reputation. Created by the philanthropist family of the Medicis in the 16th century, is a grand garden that was meant to remind Catherine de Medici of her native Tuscany. You can grab a seat anywhere and enjoy the fresh air among the landscaping. There are several sculptures and two fountains spread throughout the grounds as well.

Bike Tour Paris

Side of the Pompidou

Everybody knows about the Louvre and Centre Pompidou, but another great museum to visit is Les Invalides. The most notable tomb in this museum is that of Napoleon Bonaparte. Though his ashes were not originally placed here, they were moved in 1840, with a red and green quartzite and granite tomb finished in 1861. Many of his family members and other military officers are also are buried here.

A little bit less beautiful and romantic than the gardens is the Catacombs of Paris. This underground ossuary holds the remains of about 6 million people. 6 million! Though the thought of walking through tunnels holding the remains of that many people from centuries before our time can seem a bit morbid, the sight of endless pile of bone is incredible. The almost artistic nature of the piles makes for a unique and exciting experience.

Bike Tour France

A view of the Jardin

Other than see sights, an important part of enjoying Paris is the walk from place to place. Traveling on foot is definitely the best way to experience the City of Light, and while you can cross the city in just a few hours, you shouldn’t. Stopping at cafes to enjoy the desserts, coffee, or whatever treat you desire is half the fun. Depending on the weather, having a relaxing afternoon chatting and people watching can be extremely fulfilling in Paris.

Spending a few days in Paris before a bike tour in France is a perfect way to start off an incredible trip. With so much to do in Paris, you won’t have troubling staying busy.

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October 24, 2011

Impressions – Prague to Vienna

DuVine Guide Justin just finished up biking through the Czech Republic and Austria and took the time to share some of his favorite moments with us. From Prague to Vienna, here are his thoughts:
A little more than twenty years ago, an Austrian might have been thinking, “I wonder what color I should my paint my fence?” At the same time, a Czech living a few kilometers away might have been thinking, “If I try to scale the fence, the border guards will shoot me.” Great way to start a tour blog post, right? But this is just to illustrate how amazing it is today when one bikes across the nations’ boundary -no guard to speak of, no tension, no customs, no dogs or electric fences or anti-tank blockades. Just… freedom. Freedom to glide on two wheels to lunch in Austria, and bike back to the Czech Republic for an afternoon glass of wine. “The Iron Curtain? You just passed it; it’s plowed under that field of yellow-flowered colza. C’mon, I know a winery that makes a great Pinot.”
Bike Tour Czech Republic

A Sklepy, or Wine Cellar

The restructuring of the Czech Republic is far from complete – the cold, lead-handed communist leaders are now cold, lead-headed chiefs of private industries – but the change is far more than just the new coats of paint one sees everywhere. There is openness, and a celebration of their ingenuity and industriousness that has always been a part of the Czech people. It is worth comparing the new Czech Republic with the consistent Austria, a country as proud of its history as France. And the history is rich! You can discover them both on your next DuVine Adventure – Prague – Vienna!
I recently had a chance to ride much of this trip. There is so much to describe but I want to give just a few of my impressions and leave the rest for you to experience:
Bike Tour Czech Republic

The Ferry Crossing

Walking into the rooms of the 18th-century Zameck Liblice, our first hotel. Our host tells Lukas (our Czech guiding maestro) that the furniture is 18th and 19th century pieces. Museum quality. “Our guests just take care of it,” she says.
Biking 80% of the trip on bike lanes and bike paths, even into central Prague. I didn’t have to worry about cars for most of my day. The path takes us by Renaissance castles, 19th century whitewashed factories, restored zameks (chateaus), old farming towns with hops growing tall, tall, tall. At one point we cross the Vltava River by a small boat. We have to call the ferryman and he takes us across without a stroke: The boat is attached to a cable by a pulley, he turns the rudder one way and the boat is pushed across by the current. To return he pushes the rudder the other direction.
The best pilsners in the world are in Bohemia. Germany will have to deal with this fact. These beers taste even better when you are overlooking Prague from green, green Letná Hill.
Biking between the elaborate Neo-gothic summer palace of the Lichtensteins and the Baroque palace of the Lichtensteins with sylvan monuments and 500-year-old oaks in between. Then the bike path that was the old border patrol road. Such a contrast.
Bike Tour Czech Republic

View of the Wachau

Really good wines. Down in Moravia, in the wine village of Pavlov, I tried a Pinot that would charm many a Burgundian, and whites that speak both of quality and of locality.
In the wine village of Mikulov, at the Eat Art Gallery & Restaurant, Jitka has a guest Brazilian cook. He’s a young kid, he’ll be making Brazilian comfort food for the weekend in this great little space. This is the type of synergy that one finds only in big cities or in an artist town. I walk out at 11 pm, there are two couples tabled outside a bar, two people at another wine bar. Just these few under the watch of the gorgeous Mikulov Castle. They are laughing. The cobbled street is theirs.
The Wachau. Vineyards are terraced on the sides of the mountains, and we are biking next to the Danube. The sun is out. I pass a church founded during Charlemagne’s rule, take pictures of a massive vine. Lukas and I stop for a degustation comparing Rieslings and the local specialty, Grüner Veltliner. Again, I’ve been riding a bike path most of the day. The day is sanft, the German word for gentle, and ruhig, calm. Awesome.
There’s many other moments to describe in this Czech Republic and Austria bike tour, but the best way is to experience them yourself. This is a fantastic tour replete with great and gentle biking, hearty food; great, great drinks, and beautiful sites of which to dream. We can’t paint a prettier picture of these two great lands.
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September 1, 2011

DuVine Apres Velo – Mendoza, Argentina

The center of the Argentinean wine industry, Mendoza is a superb place to spend time before or after a bike tour in Argentina. Though the region is a very dry desert, the city and its surrounding regions have an immense irrigation system that allows for the extensive growth of grapes. Relaxing in Mendoza while tasting the regions finest wines one can never go wrong.

Bike Tour Mendoza Argentina

Parque San Martin Entrance

In addition to the irrigation supplying water for the wine industry, it also helps create a beautiful city. The greenery within the city provides much more scenic streets that are more wide-open and spacious than in other Argentinean cities.

One such example of the great greenery in the city is the Parque San Martin. The park is great both for biking and walking through on a nice day. Behind the zoo in the northwest corner of the park is a great viewing spot called the Cerro de la Gloria. The angle down on the city with the mountains in the background makes for a beautiful view.

Of course, the wine here cannot be ignored. Even though you will get plenty of opportunities to taste the wine during the bike tour, the more the merrier. Prepare in advance, as some wineries require reservations that must be booked ahead of time.

Bike Tour Mendoza Argentina

Beautiful Plaza Espana

Plaza Espana is the most beautiful square in the city of Mendoza. It is artistically decorated with cultural motifs that express a lot of the relationship the city has with Spain. The statue on top of the central wall puts it all together. Visit this plaza for a moment of cultural awe.

The mountain ranges are excellent for hiking and enjoying spectacular views of the surrounding region. Aconcagua, part of the Andes mountain range, is the highest peak in the Americas and is just a 70 mile ride from Mendoza. Hiking in the mountain range nearby will allow you to see the top, given nice weather. On that note, if you are interested in going there to see the top, check the weather before you leave.

Mendoza is a beautiful city with influences of Spanish culture spread throughout. The surrounding regions are diverse and interesting to explore. Before or after a bike tour in Argentina, Mendoza should be at the top of your list when looking at places to stay.

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July 8, 2011

Bike Tour in Portugal – The Wines of Alentejo

Alex, one of our bike tour guides in Portugal, has provided us with some great information on the wine of the Alentejo region, and why you should be salivating over the tastes. If you’re interested in our bike tour in Portugal, Alex’s writing is sure to seal the deal, at least for your taste buds.

If wine is your thing, then you will not be disappointed, for the Alentejo is brimming with some of the best world class wine producing vineyards in Portugal. The red wines are massive, somewhere between new world and Rhône in style, powerful, full-on, intense fruit, but with soft round tannins and a long lingering finish. However, what really sets Alentejo wines aside from nearly all other producing countries is the abundance of local grape varieties that are totally unknown outside of Portugal, making virtually every bottle opened, an exploration of the senses.

Bike Tour Portugal

Streets of Arraiolos

Wine production began in Portugal during Roman times and has been a favorite beverage ever since; mostly known internationally only for its delicious Port wines, Portugal is in fact, the seventh largest producer of wine in the world and can still be found at very affordable prices all over the Alentejo region; in restaurants, it is possible to order excellent local house wines (vinho da casa) for $8.00 a bottle, or less!

Since joining the European Union in 1986, Portugal has been gradually improving the overall quality of its wine production having suffered somewhat under the central rule of the Salazar dictatorship and subsequent revolution in the mid-seventies.

But perhaps, of all the Portuguese producing areas, it is the Alentejo wines that have made the biggest leap in quality over recent years, having attracted investment from big names such as the Rothschilds from Bordeaux, as well as many prominent Portuguese investors. Nevertheless, these wines are still difficult to find in the US, overlooked for something more familiar, though perhaps, less adventurous, and I suspect this is more to do with lack of effective marketing, allied with quite unique grape varieties that are difficult for us English speakers to pronounce.

bike tour portugal

Barrels at Ramos

But, it is precisely this that makes the wines of Alentejo so interesting for me, and why we at DuVine are so keen to share them with you. Aside from their generally very inexpensive nature, one of their main attractions is that producers have, in the main, omitted to jump on the bandwagon of familiarity and have decided to stay faithful to their traditional local grape varieties, little, or never, seen in the Americas. So, if you’re tiring of Cab, Merlot and Malbec or are Sauvignon and Chardonnay’d out, it is possibly time to discover new tastes and flavors.

It is estimated that Portugal has over 300 different grape varieties, most of which, are unique to the country. In the Alentejo, red grape varieties include Trincadeira, Aragonés, Perequita, Alicante Bouschet, Grand-Noir and Touriga Nacional; Amongst the whites, Roupeiro, Rabo de Ovelha, Fernão Pires, Arinto, Perrum and Antão Vaz. Either blended or mono-varietal, these wines offer a whole new plethora of flavors and textures to explore at generally, very affordable prices; in fact, some of the very best can be purchased for under € 15 euro, and as little as € 3 euro a bottle at the wineries.

bike tour portugal

A vineyard view

During our trip to the Alentejo, we will have the opportunity to visit several local wineries and try countless numbers of bottles while dining in cozy little restaurants or enjoying a delightful open-air picnic, and we hope you’ll enjoy discovering these little gems as much as we enjoy showing them to you.

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July 5, 2011

How I got ready for the Tour de France

DuVine guide Justin recently wrote this blog post in order to share his experiences on the types of mountains and passes ridden during the Tour de France.   He completed this cycling as part of his preparation for our upcoming Alps to Paris Bike Tour, a DuVine Adventures Pro Series bike tour that takes guests along the route during the ongoing Tour de France race.

Trying to keep up with the Andy’s…

Pro Series Bike Tour Pyrenees

Justin Climbing Col de l'Iseran

Schleck and Levine that is.  With the tour season well-underway, and the Tour de France season just starting, I took a break from biking and guiding to go, well, biking and guiding.  I just can’t seem or want to get away from my job!  A friend from Pittsburgh came in to hang out for a week and maybe do some casual climbs up the Alpe d’Huez, the Galibier, the Cormet de Roseland, and the Col de l’Iseran. How could I say no!?  So off to the Alps we went.  With the DuVine’s new Pro Series tours getting started, I knew I needed to get some miles in my legs to keep up.

The first day with my friend was a competitive jaunt up the 13 km of the Col de la Croix Fry, before settling in the French ski town of La Clusaz.  The second day saw us scaling the beautiful Cormet de Roseland and descending to Bourg St. Maurice.  On the third day, we went big and took on the Col de l’Iseran – the tallest pass in Europe at 2770 meters.  It was 80 degrees in Bourg St. Maurice, and 40s on the Col with snow all around.  We had twenty-five miles of climbing and an admittedly tasty and much-needed pizza in the middle of it.

Pro Series Bike Tour Pyrenees

Much Needed Nutrition

Day 4 was only up to 2056 meters on the Col de Lauteret, starting a short distance below.  La Meije rested above us as we wheeled our way up the gentle climb. With our eyes set on the peak, we kept pedaling away, our legs constantly in motion.

Even the next day, from Briancon to the Galibier, we didn’t stop.  The rain, the fog, the 41 degrees at the 2600+ peak… nothing managed to stop us.  Though I wish I could say that I had a healthy dinner of pasta and some cooked veggies, that cold had seeped into my bones.  Only fondue at the Vieux Guide could warm me up. It did exactly that, and it was delicious.

The lack of a more wholesome meal didn’t seem to affect my ascent of the Alpe d’Huez the next day.  My time wasn’t close to Marco Pantani’s 37 minute and 35 second record, but I was extremely happy to be riding those 21 curves. It’s getting me ready to lead DuVine clients up there for the Tour de France, so we can see what Andy Schleck can do against Alberto Contador.

We all share Justin’s excitement about the Tour de France and our Pro Series bikes tours. Riding up the climbs that the best cyclists in the world conquer year after year is a thrilling opportunity. Justin is training hard to be fit to get up those tough hills, and the Pro Series tours will surely challenge his fitness, how about coming along with Justin and seeing how well you can do!

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May 5, 2011

DuVine Apres Velo – Guide’s Guide to Rome

Filed under: DuVine Apres Velo, Guide posts, Italy — Bike tour guru @ 4:24 pm
bicycle tour in italy

Piazza di Spagna

DuVine Guide Tom Coppock is a Vermont native who fell in love with Italy during a semester abroad in Rome while at Darmouth College. He has been with DuVine for 3 years and divides his time between the Boston office and living in Tuscany, where he leads many different bike tours in Italy.  As a part of our DuVine Apres Velo blog posts, Tom has created a nice summary of how to visit and explore Rome, a perfect extension to many of our DuVine European bicycle tours.

On the Beaten Track There is so much worth seeing in Rome, that the real danger, if you have only a few days, is in spreading yourself too thin. You need to prioritize based on what interests you and make sure not to try to see more than one or two major sites in a day, as ‘museum fatigue’ will drastically reduce what you get out of it. Luckily, most of Rome’s most popular sites can be divided between the city’s two heydays: Ancient Rome and the Renaissance/Baroque. So, if you are going to see a couple major sites in one day, a combination of the two (i.e. Forum and Villa Borghese) will break up the experience nicely.

bicycle tour in italy

The Coliseum

Ancient sites The Forum/Palatine/Coliseum: I studied ancient Roman history, but even I find that more than a few hours amidst fallen marble columns and crumbling brick buildings is enough. Without some background and a lot of imagination this area can seem over-hyped. A guide can really bring this to life. Also, I don’t think it is worth waiting an hour in line to get inside the Coliseum. If the line is short, make the trip. Otherwise, spend your time elsewhere.

Renaissance/Baroque The Vatican: the museum here has famously long lines that snake around multiple city blocks. Once inside, the sheer size of the place is overwhelming. Again, a guide is very helpful, as they can cut the line (saving you hours) and will lead you directly from masterpiece to masterpiece, cutting out the fluff along the way so you won’t be burned out by the time you reach the Sistine chapel at the end. If you don’t get a guide, my personal favorites are the Raphael rooms (painted by Raphael) and the map-room (the walls are painted with detailed maps representing the entire known world at the time).

bicycle tour in italy

St. Peter's

St. Peter’s: If you are not a museum person or don’t have time to wait in the lines, the Basilica is a much quicker visit. Entrance is free and the lines are short. The interior is worth seeing, as you are in the largest church in the world, and Michelangelo’s statue Pieta near the entrance is one of my personal favorites.

Galleria Borghese: If you like sculpture, this gallery is a must. The work of Bernini (the most important Baroque sculptor) is incredible. The museum is located in a park in the northeastern section of the city. Ask your hotel to make a reservation for you, as you need one to get in.

Off the Beaten Track

Here are my favorite lesser-known places to visit in the city :

Basilica di San Clemente: Located near the Coliseum this 12th century church would be interesting but not worth the visit if not for the excavations below. Upon entering, buy a ticket and proceed underground and back in time in Roman history. The church is built right on top of an early Christian church from the 4th century which was in turn built on top of an earlier temple to the mystery-cult of Mithras and ancient city streets. You can go visit each level and I think this is a must-see for anyone visiting Rome to understand the development of the city.

bicycle tour in italy

Church of St. Ignatius

Church of St. Ignatius: Located in the heart of the historical center the nondescript exterior (by Roman standards) hides a fascinating interior. The ceiling is a masterpiece of trompe l’oeil (optical illusion) painting. I’ll say no more, you have to check it out.

Janiculum Hill- If you are tired of the crowds, a walk up the Janiculum is a great escape. Just cross the Tiber into Trastevere and walk uphill (a map is helpful). As the quiet cobbled streets give way to a park, try not to look at the view too soon. From the top, next to the equestrian statue of Garibaldi, you will find the best view out over the city. Walking back down, the restaurants in Trastevere are where the Romans go, so poke your head into a place where everyone is speaking Italian and you will be assured of a good meal.

bicycle tour in italy

Trevi fountain

Walking Tour: Rome is a great walking city, and a day (or days) spent walking the streets can be every bit as rewarding as visiting a museum. I would suggest making your way from the Tiber River Island through the Jewish neighborhood around the theater of Marcelo before heading through Campo dei Fiori, and Piazza Navona on your way to the Pantheon. From here, double back to see the huge monument to Italy’s first King, Vittorio Emanuele II, dominating Piazza Venezia and then walk up Rome’s main street, Via del Corso. This is a great place to people-watch, so find a café or bench and watch Rome go by. Leaving Via del Corso, turn right, following signs, to visit the Trevi fountain and make sure not to miss what is in my opinion, the world’s best gelato at the nearby gelateria, San Crispino, 42 Via Della Panetteria (follow Via del Lavatore from the fountain and turn left onto Via Della Panetteria). From here, continue on to the Spanish steps. If you want to see the Bernini statue of the Agony of Saint Theresa, made famous by Angels and Demons, take a detour to the Church of Santa Maria Della Vittoria. Otherwise, continue along via del Babuino, through one of Rome’s most chic neighborhoods to Piazza del Popolo, another great spot to people-watch and drink a glass of wine or visit another Angels and Demons church, Santa Maria del Popolo, with its famous demon hole.

So, whether you visit Rome before or after your bicycle tour in Italy I hope this helps you out with some ideas on how to have a great experience in one of the most famous cities in all the world.  See you soon!

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April 25, 2011

Dordogne France Bicycle Tour

After the hustle and bustle of DuVine’s France Guide training week, Alex and I (Tommy Pace) embarked on a new adventure. We jumped into one of the new DuVine vans and drove straight to France to pre-trip our new Dordogne bicycle tour.

Dordogne is a fairy tale land in southwestern France that combines stunning castles, gorgeous countryside and amazing rolling roads. This is a cyclist’s dream with moderate rides that cruise past medieval castles, picturesque vineyards and the Dordogne river. This DuVine bike trip sends us into new territory; Alex and I checked out all the sites, spent days exploring villages and scoping out new routes. We were amazed with the red wine from Bergerac and the sweet whites from Monbazillac (think Sauternes!). We passed Troglodyte dwellings and caves famous for pre-historic artwork. Above all, the natural beauty and phenomenal architecture blew us away. Once the unique bike trip in France was over, I reflected on my travels and decided that pictures and video speak louder than words.

Check out this video and I look forward to riding with you in this incredible corner of France!

more words maybe

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April 24, 2011

DuVine Guides – Spring in Burgundy, France

DuVine guides, Sam and Thomas, biked through central France and have some great experiences to share. They had a great week pre-tripping in advance of the new season of bike tours in France and decided to write about their experience in the wine capital of Burgundy. We hope you enjoy reading about it!

Spring Has Sprung in Burgundy.

Bike Tour Burgundy

Working the Fields

The villages of the Cote d’Or are eerily quiet in late April. Cats sleep in sharp late morning shadows; tree blossoms scatter and mix with dust disturbed by gusts of wind channeled through narrow streets. Lazy silences are broken only by the wispy clapping from the wings of the doves moving from the safety of a medieval belfry to a new roost. The rolling clang of metal shutters announces the closure of the only shop in the village, the Boulangerie, and the start of the sacred two hour lunch break. Leaning on your handlebars in the warm spring sunshine of these picturesque Burgundian villages… Where is everyone?

The answer… at work.

Winery in Burgundy

Fields of the Winery

The narrow, 50 km escarpment that runs southward from Dijon towards Santenay is home to the greatest wine growing country on earth. From the saddle of a bicycle it is easy to see why this somewhat ordinary strip of land produces the marveled wines it does. The gentle gradient of southeast facing slopes rest under a steep protective ridge topped with dense oak forests. The natural springs from numerous combes (small valleys) provide nourishment from deep within the earth and the suns path bathes the region in golden sunshine giving its name the Cote d’Or.

But the wines of Burgundy don’t make themselves. Other than the vendanges (harvest), spring is one of the busiest times of year in this ancient capital of wine and the work done at this early stage of the year is vital to the rest of the year’s production. Once off the closed, shadowed streets of Pommard, Volnay Monthelie and Vougeot, the horizon opens to reveal this essential landscape. Shaded cobbled streets become winding tracks and organized thoroughfares that connect the domains, Parcel and Clos, the names of which read like any wine lovers wish list.

Tight lines of wire run from the innumerable staves that in time will support a priceless harvest, but in late April the vines, dormant for so long over a long cold winter, are only just coming back to life.

Guide Post Burgundy Wine

Worn Hands Prune the Vines

Dilapidated white vans kick-up dust as they navigate their way through this criss-cross of tracks, lanes, vines, and by-ways. These vehicles are not the most glamorous mode of transportation for the owners of the most valuable real-estate in the world, you might think, but inside these beat up panel-vans rest the tools, knowledge, and man power that ensure the attention that each and every vine deserves. From dusk till dawn generations of Burgundians toil amongst their beloved vines.

Bent double in the brisk morning air they work from vine to vine, their clouds of breath blowing before them. Come midday their sweat-soaked shirts rest on vine-posts as they continue to cut and trim by hand, leaving behind only the shoots that they believe will provide the best fruit. Traditional methods are mixed with new. Burley work-horses pull ploughs through dense earth under the bellowed orders of meticulous vigneron (winemaker), while in the neighboring plot insect-like enjambeur (tractor) rush awkwardly between vines, there mechanical claws and wings spraying and scraping as they go.

At almost 10 cm a day the growth of the vines, at this time of year, is unforgiving. Each vine must be cut to produce the amount of juice that respects the strict guidelines of the local AOC. Weeks from now the tight lines and russet earth of Burgundy will be invisible under heavy foliage. Now is the time vigneron have the best access to the shoots that will produce a crop to satisfy their hopes that 2011 will not just be a good year, but a great year in the Cote d’Or.

Every local you speak to in Burgundy passes on his or her wisdom. Young and old, they all have an opinion. By all accounts, 2011 is looking very promising. Current temperatures are reminding those who can remember of the great vintages gone by. But it’s all too easy to write what makes good wine. To understand Burgundy and its wine you have to come here. You have to meet its people. You have to smell its soil. You have to cycle past the forests and see how the sun falls on certain plots in the late afternoon. Burgundy is all about terroir (land) and the only way you can understand terroir is by coming here.

If you come on a bike tour in France, you will get to experience everything that Sam and Thomas describe for you. We get to take advantage of all the wine that the region of Burgundy provides, but seeing what goes on first-hand makes the enjoyment of the wine that much greater.

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March 11, 2011

Camino de Santiago – a guide’s story

Justin Wuycheck DuVine Adventures Guide

Justin

1000 kms of memories – hiked by Justin Wuycheck – DuVine Senior Guide

As many of our readers know DuVine has a Camino de Santiago bike tour but The Camino di Santiago has been an important part of my life from a hiking perspective, a very different way to travel.  Three times, I’ve had the chance to hike those dusty trails, and three times I’ve come back with innumerable memories.  A few anecdotes:

October 2000. Towards the end of the middle of 750km:   We are hiking up the Cruz de Ferro,  the poet David Van Dusen, a woman from MTV Brazil, and I , a college grad.  It is a cool morning, and to keep the chill away I sing “The Man Who Couldn’t Cry,” in the style of Johnny Cash.  The woman from Brazil likes this.  David says, “This is a long song.”

Camido di Santiago bike tour

Hiking along the Camino

Not an amazing anecdote.  Day after day, mile after mile, lots of trifles like this.  And then you reach Santiago: You visit the cathedral; you have a final meal together; you turn to say goodbye and you can’t.  In the shadow of mountains and beautiful monuments, those un-amazing anecdotes have drawn you all close.

September 2004.  Hiking 150 km in Galacia:   I’ve been living in the Pyrenees, biking Tour de France mountains.  I am STRONG.  My father comes to Europe for the first time to hike the Camino of which I’ve spoken so often.  He’s in his early sixties.  We spend two days doing 30+km days.  The third day we do more than 40, and at about kilometer 40, my dad just starts walking away.  I mean I can’t keep up.  The young guy who conquered the Col de blah blah blah and Mt.  This-and-That, can’t keep up.

Camido di Santiago bike tour

Hiking along the St. James Way

July 2007. Hiking 200km through central/southern France:  It’s sunny in the forests of the Haute-Loire.  I am singing like Johnny Cash again, on the French Camino, the Chemin de St. Jacques.  I finish “Long Black Veil” and my girlfriend grabs my arm and kisses me.

As you can tell I am big on the experience and the memories that remain with you long after a trip is completed, although these days my anecdotes come from  bike tours in Bordeaux, Burgundy and Provence… so come along with me and experience these fantastic places and create your own memories.

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