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February 7, 2012

Burgundy Wine Harvest with The Hungry Cyclist

Filed under: Drink, European bike tours, France, Guide posts, Wines, burgundy — Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , — Bike tour guru @ 3:47 pm

Explore the vineyards in Burgundy first-hand.

On DuVine bike tours in Burgundy, you have a unique opportunity. While cycling in Burgundy, you get to do more than just drink some of the world’s most outstanding wine. You get to put your nose and your hands right in it, right into the very soil from which it comes. Yes, you could just buy a bottle and imagine yourself there. But why not go to the source? Why not immerse yourself fully in the wine-loving experience that is a bicycle tour in Burgundy, getting yourself intimately familiar with a wine that you cannot help but love. We promise it will taste even better. Just ask DuVine guide Tom Kevill-Davies (aka The Hungry Cyclist), who spent ten days working the Burgundy Grape Harvest in 2011. With his palate and nose at the ready and his camera close by,  he put together this captivating recount of his time there and this stunning collection of photos.

“Its 8:30 in the morning and an autumnal chill remains in the air from the night before. The sun is doing its best to burn off the low-lying mist that clings to the fields and gullies of the Cote D ‘Or.

Beams of sunlight gradually break the day, spotlighting the lichen and moss that cling to ancient dry-stone walls and the bold colours of autumn begin to sing. A rough carpet of deep reds, purples, ochre, and gold stretches as far as I can see and the astonishing natural beauty of this celebrated wine region has caught me off guard again. Gazing dumbfounded at this age-old image in front of me, I forget my purpose for being here at this early hour.

Get to know the men and women who make the wine.

“Allez Thomas!”

The assertive voice of the vigneron I am working for reminds me why I am here and reluctantly I slip out of sight below the row of vines to my left. Down here the world looks very different. Drops of dew cling to delicate cobwebs while harvest spiders scramble for cover. The damp air hangs amongst the vine stock and the rich earth hangs heavy on my rubber boots. Moving amongst the wet vines my shorts and shirt are wet and cling to my body. My back is all ready complaining about another day of this repetitive work. Focusing on my prize, I handle a heavy bunch of plump red grapes and…snip! The bunch joins the dozens others in the basket by my feet and, edging uncomfortably forward, I move to the next vine in the endless row of Pinot Noir ahead of me. Only another seven days to go….

When not picking grapes in the Burgundy harvest and working as a lead guide for DuVine Adventures, clients often ask me when the best time to visit Burgundy is. In the spring you see the grapes in flower and witness the lively village wine fetes. In mid-summer the warm sun ripens the grapes in front of you. But for a real idea of the work and energy that goes into making the world’s greatest wine, a trip in early autumn to witness the harvest is a must for any oenophile.

Maybe even give them a hand.

Transformed from its usual calmness for the few days the harvest takes place, the vines become a hive of human activity. Teams of pickers work lines of vines with locust-like efficiency. Porters carry “hods” overflowing with fruit and tractors with full trailers rush between the fields and the winery. This grape harvest has been taking places in this region for millennia, and most vineyards still insist on picking their precious crop by hand. Workers still travel from all over Europe to pick and carry the grapes, while many are locals who involve themselves in this historic get-together year after year. The work is not easy but the camaraderie is overwhelming. Working together, eating together, drinking together, and sleeping together, the energy of the harvest is rewarding and addictive.

In my opinion, witnessing the wine harvest is a must for any real wine lover. Here at DuVine Adventures we won’t force you into the fields to pick any grapes, but book a cycling tour in Burgundy with us or any other of our European wine regions and we guarantee you’ll experience the true nature of this important annual event first hand.”

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February 1, 2012

The Ultimate DuVine Soiree

Filed under: Pan Mass Challenge, events — Tags: , , , , , , , , , , — Bike tour guru @ 3:37 pm

It was a full house at the ultimate soiree.

We’ve had DuVine soirees in the past. We’ve celebrated our loyal guests, our valued partners, and our favorite causes. But never quite like this. Never on such a grand scale. On Friday, January 27, we topped all our past celebrations, bringing the DuVine Experience in full to the Taj in Boston. Judging by the pictures alone, it’s pretty clear that all in attendance had a blast.

One of the real highlights of the night was our raffle and silent auction, which raised a hefty sum of money for the Pan-Mass Challenge, which we’re partnering with this year to benefit the great cause that is the Dana-Farber Cancer Institute and its Jimmy Fund. Up for grabs in the raffle was a ticket to Portugal’s stunning Azores islands, courtesy of the Consul General of Portugal, Paulo Cunha Alves, who was in attendance himself. And the items on the auction table were no less incredible: Red Sox and Celtics tickets; a four-course dinner for four at Rialto; a Tom Brady autographed Sports Illustrated magazine; a two night stay at the Wauwinet in Nantucket; a bike ride with the PMC’s Billy Starr and DuVine founder Andy Levine; and much, much more. All proceeds went to the Pan-Mass Challenge.

Andy gets the party started.

As all of you know by now, we at DuVine love to have a good time. If you’ve ever been on a DuVine bike tour, it’s hard to miss. The same goes for when we get together to celebrate. It’s actually hard to say what is more fun: a DuVine bike tour, or the soiree. It’s a close call, so we’ll let you decide. But after we were done chatting over a few drinks, some scrumptious appetizers, and an array of delicious entrees, Alisa and Andy got the party started. With their inspiring speeches and Andy’s memorable song and dance routine, the party was in full swing as everyone took to the dance floor for what quickly became a night to remember. From the food to the dancing, the photo booth to the auction, and everything in between, it could not have been any better. These things don’t just happen on their own, though, and there are quite a few people who deserve our thanks for making it all happen.

A big thanks is owed to everyone who made the auction possible. Their huge generosity is the reason that we were able to make such a wonderful donation to the Pan-Mass Challenge, and they absolutely deserve our recognition. Supplying the awesome auction prizes were: the Wauwinet hotel; Honest Tea; Nashoba Valley Ski Area; photographer Eric Levin (who also ran the crazy-fun photo booth); Steven Zevitas Gallery; Gstarfit; LAZ Parking; Lisa Pierpont and Boldfacers; Rialto Restaurant and Jody Adams; La Montage gallery; John Deputy, the Institute of Contemporary Art/Boston; and La Morra restaurant.

Another group of people absolutely crucial to the success of this fantastic event were our valued partners and sponsors, without whom this night never would have gotten off the ground. So, for their outstanding contribution to a great night and a great cause, we want to recognize: Isablle Perny from Atout France; Sharon Katzav from the Israel Ministry of Tourism; Fionna Dunne from Tourism Ireland; David K. Richter and Jess Canor from CitationAir; Laurence Gagnon from the Delegation du Quebec a Boston; Paulo Cunha Alves, the Consul General of Portugal; Pascal Marmier, the Consul General of Switzerland; Christophe Guilhou, the Consul General of France; Jody Adams of Rialto Restaurant; Pamela Feick from JG Blackbook; Aoife Owens and Heather Daly from Nantucket Island Resorts; and Patrick Blangy from the Taj. In addition to our dedicated DuVine staff, each of these people made an invaluable contribution to the night’s success.

Team DuVine.

Last but not least, a huge thank you is owed to all the DuViners out there. Without you, we would have nothing to celebrate. Without you, we would not be anywhere near where we are today, and it is thanks to you that the DuVine style is flourishing. 2011 was an outstanding year, but we can already tell that 2012 is shaping up to be even better. With new bike tours in France, Italy, Spain, and more, as well as new Pro Series cycling tours that will push you to your limit, there is so much to do this year. So keep on riding, and stay DuVine. We can’t wait to see you on the road soon!

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September 8, 2011

Where in the Alentejo was Andy?

Filed under: European bike tours, Portugal — Tags: , , , , , — Bike tour guru @ 12:37 pm

Cycling deep into the heart of  Portugal in typical Andy DuVine style!

Bike Tour in Portugal

Andy in the Alentejo

Have bike – will travel…and that is truly the case in the Alentejo…in fact, that should be this region’s slogan!  It will certainly be the slogan for DuVine’s bike tour in Portugal.

Never before have I seen so many people out and about on the road on bicycles. And I don’t mean roadies in matching kits attempting col climbs in France or the gathering of thousands of cyclists participating in a charity event….I mean regular, every day village people “commuting” on bikes. Honestly it feels as if the invention of the automobile has yet to occur (as barely a car exists), and the only mode of transport is bicycle. And these bikes are just as dated as the concept of time here. It’s as if you pressed a pause button and life in the village was suspended in time. The men are dressed in old-fashioned hats and the women are clad in black dresses as they meander about town – speaking at street corner cafes, chatting in the crossroads, milling about town and gathering at the local market. They don no special gear to ride these archaic bikes and carry their wares from the market in baskets attached to the rear – be it fresh eggs in a wicker basket or a loaf of fresh bread and a bottle of wine.

Bike Tour in Portugal

Biking with precious cargo...fresh eggs!

At times, I almost felt like I was on the set of an old movie. In fact one of my favorite experiences occurred on a ride into Machede –such an unexpected and unique experience – the kind that only happens in movies. If I tried, I could never have even written a script like this!

It was another typical day on the road. I had being cycling by myself for 50 kilometers along a rather flat and seemingly endless stretch of road traveling by gypsy colonies, vineyard expanses, fields of hay and passing stray dogs and villagers out sweeping the streets with hand-fashioned brooms. I had begun to zone out, transfixed by this lovely meditative scenery as I began a descent down a long hill, when all of the sudden, I was snapped out of my zen-like state by a commotion down the hill. An accident? Some sort of village riot? All I could make out from my vantage point was that there was some sort of commotion going on…and all I could hear were loud voices and men screaming.

As I approached closer (a bit trepidatiously, I might add) I heard someone yell “ARMSTRONG!” Upon closer inspection, I see a large gathering of men dressed in old fashioned clothing and riding 50 year old bikes. Apparently they have gathered for a village tradition – a yearly ride – and I have somehow serendipitously arrived at the perfect time.

Bike Tour in Portugal

Celebrating the arrival

They immediately celebrated my (seemingly exalted) arrival by handing me a beer and a rather curious snack which I believed to be some sort of ham, but turned out to be a huge piece of pig fat on bread with garlic on top! (Not exactly what I wanted to swallow, but in keeping with tradition and in an effort to show respect, I raised my beer and downed the snack.) And then the 30 of us jumped on our bikes and I led as we paraded the remaining 5 kilometers into town with the streets lined with villagers cheering and clapping us on. I almost felt like the pied piper (or should I say biker) of Machede!

Bike Tour in Portugal

The parade of bikes

Here I was dressed in my DuVine kit on a brand new road bike riding alongside a group of villagers dressed in garb from the past riding 1-speed clunkers dating circa 1940. What a show it was!

Upon arrival, they then invited me to their BBQ lunch for chicken and sangria. It was an incredibly special experience…and all tied to the love of the bicycle! I cannot articulate how memorable and meaningful this day on a bike in the Alentejo region was!

Bike Tour in Portugal

Bonding

And even though I spoke not a word of Portuguese, and they not a word of English, we all bonded over the bicycle and sangria! This stuff only happens when you least expect it. Truth really is stranger and much more exciting than fiction! What a day – and only in Portugal!!

What more is there to say? I could talk about the amazing 5 star hotels and the strongest Wi-Fi connections I’ve ever seen this side of planet Earth (freakish, actually…especially for a place that seems time-stamped in the less than tech-savvy past); the interesting and tasty wines (over 300 different types of grapes are grown in Portugual); the delicious grilled meats and uber fresh melon and fruits; the historic towns tiled in marble; the amazing vineyard visits (including stops at the “Dr.” of wine – Casa Sabico; Dona Maria, one of the top wine makers in Portugal; and a private visit to a well-known family’s palace and winery); but it is really all about the experience of cycling through this region, stepping back in time, looking at the world in a new way and meeting the generous and charismatic local people who share your love of the bicycle and its place in life and culture. Who knows…maybe you’ll stumble upon your own movie set in the making!

Bike Tour in Portugal

It's all about the bike!

Oh and if you are looking for greener pastures, here’s an inside tip: I hear April and May in the Alentejo are the time to go!

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July 1, 2011

Where in the World is Andy?

Filed under: Corsica, European bike tours, France, Pro Series — Tags: , , , , , , , , , — Bike tour guru @ 11:37 am

Creating a new Pro Series Bike Tour, of course!

Bike Tour Corsica France

Map in Hand

Armed with a map, a bike, my nose and an open mind – hello Corsica! Here I am, exploring up and down and all the way around this wild island, cycling from beaches to mountain tops on empty roads…and all I can say is…oh la la, la Corse!

I am WOWed at most turns! Wow at the beauty…and wow as in where the heck are all the cyclists? Nary a bike nor even a car! My only company along the road is the occasional wild boar and some seemingly lost goats! As I ride from sea to summit, all I keep thinking is this is the place to ride! And how do I have this cycling haven all to myself?

Bike Tour Corsica France

WOW!

Perhaps it is the extremes? Either you go straight up for 10km or down for 10km – but they don’t talk in kilometers, here travel is counted in time, not in distance – making it a relative experience. Yes, this ‘mountain in the sea’ is well deserving of its nickname, with 120 peaks above an altitude of 2000 m, it is known as the most mountainous island in the Mediterranean.

If you like to climb…you’ll love Corsica! And the roads, aaaah the roads are amazing for cycling! So challenging, winding up and down cliffs, through villages and up to mountain peaks with views to write home about! Yes a 100km day here will hurt anyone; and 50km isn’t easy…but the sheer beauty of the island vistas will take your mind off the pain. As will relaxing seaside with a Campari and orange after a great day on the road!

Bike Tour Corsica

Epic Cycling Roads

I have logged quite a few kilometers (or should I say hours?) so far…from Cap Corse, through the scrubland ‘desert’, down to the Bay of Calvi, and ending in the chic Porto Vechhio and all I can say is that every ride has been EPIC. Each so memorable that I keep scratching my head in wonder. Is this truly a hidden gem? I guarantee if I build this tour, they will come!

Whether you are being dazzled by one of the most magnificent sunsets in the west coast town of Porto,  traveling from Porto to Piana along the awe-inspiring road with the Calanches de Piana, spiky red granite rocks jutting straight out of the sea, exploring the Desert des Agriates, an area of wild maquis and rocky outcrops, visiting the island within and island that is Cap Corse, checking out the coves in the picturesque coastal town of Calvi, or staying in the elegant town of Ajaccio, the birthplace of Napoleon, and capital of Corsica, you are sure to be seduced by beauty of this unspoiled island.

Bike Tour Corsica France

Relaxing Seaside

And not just for its epic bike riding…people come here to relax, explore the natural beauty of the island, be romantic, go to small beaches, enjoy the local wine, and savor the delicious local cuisine. It is not surprising that the old adage warns a first time visitor to the island, ”get away from here before you’re completely bewitched and enslaved…”

Between mountains and sea, Corsica has many surprises in store…from its rich and complex heritage to its unique topography this island will blow you away! Yes…I will build it DuVine style, and you will come!

So stay tuned for your chance to experience this epic adventure in Corsica!

Bike Tour Corsica France

Bike Corsica!

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June 7, 2011

Bike tour Croatia – Mountains or the Sea?

Filed under: Croatia, Dalmatian Coast, European bike tours — Tags: , , , , , , — Bike tour guru @ 2:25 pm

Coast or mountains? It is a question I sometimes ask people after I’ve known them bit.

bike tours croatia

Coast or mountains?

In my mind, as an avowed mountain person, I often already have the answer. Sea people like to lie as lizards on a beach; they occasionally lift their heads to regard the waves.  A tiny swim suffices to give them a sense of well-being.  The evening begins their second day with friends and acquaintances, the parties last far into the night. In contemplative moments, they look out upon the waters and see limitless possibilities.

Mountain people see obstacles to be scaled. They like the challenges; they sweat. Well-being comes from a mountain-top view after a five-hour uphill hike or a day long bike-ride. An unchanging day at the crowded beach is torture for them, or at best a forced rest after some monumental climb. Movement, alone or in intimate groups, is key, as there is always a new adventure over the next ridge.

So now that I’ve oversimplified us all, I’ll suggest a place we can all get along just fine – a bicycle tour in Croatia.

bike tours croatia

From the mountains to the azure sea

From the mountains to the azure sea, I don’t know if I’ve seen a more beautiful place.  I hate to say that.  I feel like I’m discrediting our bike tours in the French Alps and the Pyrénées.  But the Dinaric Alps rise thousands feet directly out of the Adriatic, a sea that shimmers one hundred clear shades of blue . Mountainous islands rise out of the water, giving sunrises and sunsets a special drama.  Here the sea and the mountains compliment each other.  They get along.

This harmony reflects in the people.  I’ve rarely met a group of people so relaxed, hard-working, and above all,  happy. For the three weeks I was in Croatia, I met daily with people who were happy.  Not without worries or concerns, but happy.  There’s probably a myriad of reasons for this but I’d like to pose three reasons.

  1. The sea and the mountains as I already mentioned
  2. Their history.  Happiness has a long history in Croatia.  Ancient Greeks were happy to plant vines and olive trees in what is now Stari Grad on the island of Hvar.  The last great, pagan Roman emperor, Diocletian, was happy to retire from his role as ruler/diety to a palace he built, a palace which is now the heart of the energetic city Split.  Venetians were happy to use Split and the town of Korčula as shipping ports.  Dubrovnik, with it’s white stone walls and gorgeous art, was happy to remain an independant rival of Venice.
  3. Pomalo. Pomalo is an island word for “Take it easy,” “Rest calm.”  Maybe it is something in the air, something on the winds blowing off the islands, but it has obviously been here for centuries. Diocletian must have gotten it:  When begged to return as emperor to a flagging Rome, he replied that “Running an empire does not compare to the joys of raising cabbages.” Pomalo attitude runs throughout Dalmatia.  It teaches one to breathe, enjoy the present moment and not worry about the future, if only for a week.
bike tours croatia

Let your DuVine guides show you the meaning of Pomalo

That’s what DuVine guides are for, anyway.  When you go with DuVine Adventures to Croatia’s Dalmatian coast, the guides are concerned about you so that you don’t have to be concerned.  We worry about tomorrow so you can concentrate on that beautiful sunset over the Island Brač, or tasting olive oil, or experiencing the brujet at dinner.  Our job is to care about you and give you the best possible bike tour.  (We’re happy to have this job!)  Visit Croatia with us and understand  pomalo, a chance to practice happiness right there between the sea and the mountains.

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May 26, 2011

How to train for a DuVine bicycle trip

Filed under: Training — Tags: , , , , , , , , — Bike tour guru @ 3:43 pm

Build your confidence on the road

For those of you who are excited about your upcoming DuVine bicycle trip,  but are perhaps a bit leery about your current conditioning on the bike – here are a few training tips to help build your confidence, as well as your fitness level.

First and foremost, get out on your bike and start logging some miles (just like we do at the DuVine Friday bike rides). If you are currently unable to cycle outside, I highly recommend taking spin classes. They are usually structured to maximize your training time in class and are great indoor/off-the-bike training.

However, I strongly suggest that you continue to get out on your bike as much as possible – nothing compares to the real thing – as elements of wind, actual hills, terrain, etc are virtually impossible to simulate inside. It will also help with your comfort level (balance, unexpected conditions, etc).

Get out and ride!

If possible, mix up your riding – incorporating flats stretches with hill climbs. When climbing, slide to the wider part of the saddle and settle in to a consistent cadence – the best strategy is consistency. The more you climb, the more you will get into a rhythm and develop your own natural style. Remember to listen to your body and do only what feels right at the time. The hill will always be there to try again the next time.

Once you have established a good training base, try to follow these general guidelines:

  • Calculate your weekly mileage and plan to increase it by no more than 10 – 12 % per week.
  • Try to include one higher mileage day/one long slow recovery day/several intermediate mileage days/at least 1-2 rest days.
  • Plan to do the short mileage/rest day following the high mileage day – it should be at a leisurely pace to help loosen up the muscles.
  • The intermediate mileage days should be between the short and long and should be approached at a good pace.

Always remember, training is a gradual process – don’t try to overdo it or push yourself when you aren’t ready. There is no shame in getting off the bike on a tough hill, slowing down to heed your heart rate, or taking a day off when you just aren’t motivated. If you know of anyone who also rides outside, try to schedule rides together and practice riding in a group – it helps break the monotony and adds a different element to your training (including improving your bike handling skills and the dynamics of group riding.)

Another important item in the training process is to track your progress.  Here at DuVine we use MapMyRide to track where we ride, the elevations and the times.  By keeping track of your progress over time you can see how far you are riding and how your riding times are changing.  A product like MapMyRide also allows you to share your rides and training with your friends which can really help your overall fitness.  You can also use this product on your DuVine bicycle tour, tracking where you ride, adding pictures and notes along the way.

Enjoy your ride!

The most important part of training is to ENJOY your ride!

Happy riding.

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May 19, 2011

Where in the World is Andy?

Filed under: Croatia, European bike tours, Group Tours — Tags: , , , , , , , — Bike tour guru @ 1:32 pm

Giving new meaning to island hopping in Croatia, of course!

bike tours in Croatia

Island hopping with YPO group in Croatia

It all began in Split at Le Meridien Hotel with a welcome cocktail offered by the mayor himself, Željko Kerum, and the fantastic sea views overlooking the city and surrounding islands. It is here that we found Andy as he joined YPO members from around the world on their first DuVine adventures bike tour in Croatia.

And oh what a tour is has been so far!

I mean, how can you beat embarking on your first ride accompanied by a police escort around the city of Split? Might as well start out with a bang, not a whimper!

bike tours in Croatia

Police escort in Split

The ride featured a unique introduction to the city highlighting the Old Town, a visit to the market, Diocletian’s Palace (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) and one of the oldest synagogue’s in Europe. Not to be outdone, of course,  by a private dinner that evening hosted by Domagoj Ivan Milosevic, the Deputy Prime Minister of Croatia.

The next morning Andy joined the group as they boarded a fleet of private fast boats and sped off to the island of Brac where they explored the rolling hills on bike and joined a local olive oil producer for a tasting deep in the hills of the island. After a delicious lunch of tender local lamb, they were back on board and racing off to the island of Hvar for some brief downtime before dinner. Meeting up at the restaurant later that night, a slow-food konoba, Andy and crew took over the place – alternating between cooking time with the chef, cocktail toasts, and of course, feasting on an amazing meal.

bike tours in Croatia

Olive oil tasting in Brac

And if that isn’t enough…Andy has been raving non-stop about his experience the following day. The group met up with Olympic sailor, Ivan Kljakovic Gaspic, first on land and then by sea.

In the morning, Ivan joined the group on their scheduled ride that day, challenging all who dared to race him up the hills. We won’t disclose how that turned out…suffice it to say, Ivan decided that pedaling with just one leg might make for an even playing field. They then happened upon a local lavender farmer who invited them in to his home for a private visit (as well as a rallying round of music on his accordion!) And with that, as you can imagine, Mr. Lavender Farmer immediately became Andy’s new best friend! Sadly, it was time to go…but the party was not over.

bike tours in Croatia

Sailing with Ivan

En route to dinner that evening, a few guests had the pleasure of sailing with Ivan on a gorgeous sail boat to the restaurant, while the remaining group, sailed alongside in a private yacht and enjoyed a wine tasting aboard before reaching the intended destination – dinner on a small exclusive island. Where in the world is right! YPO-DuVine stylin’ in the Dalamatian Islands.

Alas, Andy had to say his goodbyes to the group and motored off with Ivan on a dinghy back to Split that very evening (noting that he felt like Bond on this seemingly covert nighttime escape on the water.)  [Hmmmm…haven’t we heard this Bond comparison before? Perhaps this is some sort of recurring theme?]

bike tours in Croatia

Wine tasting on the yacht

Stay tuned…as he is off to visit more DuViners on a Tuscany bike tour.  You won’t want to miss this…

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March 11, 2011

Camino de Santiago – a guide’s story

Filed under: Bike, Camino de Santiago, Guide posts, Spain — Tags: , , , , , — Bike tour guru @ 3:12 pm
Justin Wuycheck DuVine Adventures Guide

Justin

1000 kms of memories – hiked by Justin Wuycheck – DuVine Senior Guide

As many of our readers know DuVine has a Camino de Santiago bike tour but The Camino di Santiago has been an important part of my life from a hiking perspective, a very different way to travel.  Three times, I’ve had the chance to hike those dusty trails, and three times I’ve come back with innumerable memories.  A few anecdotes:

October 2000. Towards the end of the middle of 750km:   We are hiking up the Cruz de Ferro,  the poet David Van Dusen, a woman from MTV Brazil, and I , a college grad.  It is a cool morning, and to keep the chill away I sing “The Man Who Couldn’t Cry,” in the style of Johnny Cash.  The woman from Brazil likes this.  David says, “This is a long song.”

Camido di Santiago bike tour

Hiking along the Camino

Not an amazing anecdote.  Day after day, mile after mile, lots of trifles like this.  And then you reach Santiago: You visit the cathedral; you have a final meal together; you turn to say goodbye and you can’t.  In the shadow of mountains and beautiful monuments, those un-amazing anecdotes have drawn you all close.

September 2004.  Hiking 150 km in Galacia:   I’ve been living in the Pyrenees, biking Tour de France mountains.  I am STRONG.  My father comes to Europe for the first time to hike the Camino of which I’ve spoken so often.  He’s in his early sixties.  We spend two days doing 30+km days.  The third day we do more than 40, and at about kilometer 40, my dad just starts walking away.  I mean I can’t keep up.  The young guy who conquered the Col de blah blah blah and Mt.  This-and-That, can’t keep up.

Camido di Santiago bike tour

Hiking along the St. James Way

July 2007. Hiking 200km through central/southern France:  It’s sunny in the forests of the Haute-Loire.  I am singing like Johnny Cash again, on the French Camino, the Chemin de St. Jacques.  I finish “Long Black Veil” and my girlfriend grabs my arm and kisses me.

As you can tell I am big on the experience and the memories that remain with you long after a trip is completed, although these days my anecdotes come from  bike tours in Bordeaux, Burgundy and Provence… so come along with me and experience these fantastic places and create your own memories.

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February 28, 2011

Dreaming of Alsace?

Filed under: Alsace, Bike, European bike tours, France, Wine Tasting — Tags: , , , , , , , , , — Bike tour guru @ 1:16 pm

Biking in late winter:  It’s cold and there’s slush on the road. So I’m dreaming of Colmar in the north of France. NOT because Colmar is cold!

Because it’s dry, the second driest city in France.  Drier than Nimes, Avignon, or Nice type dry. I’m dreaming of the massive bells of St. Martin singing out in warm tones, the quintessential coffee at the outdoor café, the open timbers and dark volcanic rock of the town’s well-preserved medieval buildings. The vision is expanding.

The rows of vines that glide up the foothills of the Vosges Mountains

The sun is out on the rows of vines that glide up the foothills of the Vosges Mountains.  One can imagine the warm day, on a bike with dry feet, pedaling towards a tasting of Grand Cru wines in Riquewhir, getting the pulse rate up on a climb through deciduous forests.  The evening is reserved for a feast in Kayersburg, and the cool night is perfect for an after-dinner stroll and a restorative sleep. I’m dreaming of a bicycle tour in Alsace.

At DuVine Adventures, we offer bicycle tours in France including; Burgundy, Bordeaux, Provence, and so many more to fulfill and exceed your dreams – we offer the Alsace to reveal those still undiscovered.  The beauty of half-timbered villages decorated in flowers, the mountaintop castles looking over views of the Black Forest on the German side of the Rhine, the peaceful silence hidden in the thick woods, we at DuVine Adventures want to invite you to this all. And of course much more.

The Alsace is a contradictory place – not quite French, not quite German – nestled into the high Vosges on one side, defined by the Rhine River and its valley on the other.

One of the charming villages nestled into the Alsatian countryside

Strasbourg, its capital city, is the cosmopolitan home to the European Parliament (part of the legislative branch of the European Union); but its elderly still prefer to speak the regional dialect, Alsatian.  It is the home of stocky, homey meals like choucroute (sauerkraut and pork) and also Olivier Nasti, France’s best chef of 2007 – and darn right we eat at his restaurant!

And the wine! Oh my gosh!  I’m about to crumble into a whole bunch of wine-nerdism but for those of you just needing assurance about the wines I’ve one word – BEAUTIFUL.  If wine talk bores you, go to the next paragraph.  For the rest of you…  THE WINES OF THE ALSACE ARE SOME OF THE BEST TASTING, AND SOME OF THE BEST DEALS, IN THE WORLD.  Arguably the best pinot in the world, La Romanée Conté goes for around $6000 a bottle on a lucky day. Clos St. Hume, arguably the best dry riesling in the world, goes for around $200 (Still not cheap – but, the best). And reisling is more expressive of “terroir” than pinot noir. Speaking of terroir, the Alsace is cooler than Burgundy.

Yeah, I said that.  COOLER THAN BURGUNDY.  Burgundy has limestone and clay.  Alsace has those and basalt and volcanic sands and granite.  Burgundy’s big guns are Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.  Alsace comes at you with Riesling and Gewürtztraminer and Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris and and Muscat and Sylvaner and Pinot Blanc and they grow the Chardonnay on the flats to make their delicious sparkling wine.  So you combine all those different soils, with all the different expositions on the hillsides, with all those different grapes, and you’ve got nearly limitless possibilities of wines.

The wines of Alsace

… And the wines are usually dry, unless you ask for their amazing production of sweet wines.  Ok, so we are all back together, wine lovers and maybe those interested in biking more than wine.  The biking!  The Vosges Mountains are the forgotten range of France.  When the Tour de France first looked for a mountain stage in 1905, it was in the Vosges.  When Henrich Haussler escaped the peloton in unseasonably cold rainy weather for a day of glory in 2009, it was in the Vosges.

They are not the Alps or the Pyrénées but the rides work up an appetite.  There is a sense of accomplishment that comes from biking a mountain to see the Rhine Valley from an eagle’s view.  And there is a sense of serenity that one finds biking through the cloister of trees in the Vosges that sets them apart from their larger counterparts.

Haute-Koenigsbourg castle

My legs are a little tired.  I might have imagined the climb up to Haute-Koenigsbourg castle too vividly.

There is still slush on the ground outside, here in Boston.  In a few short months DuVine Adventures will be on the Alsatian slopes pedaling under a canopy of trees; or in a winemaker’s home, tasting a dry Riesling; and in an awarded restaurant, eating a thoughtfully prepared meal.  We want you to be there with us on an Alsatian bicycle tour!

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February 8, 2011

Bonne Annee from Burgundy! – a mid-winter’s welcome from DuVine Guide Keith Klein

Filed under: Bike, France, Guide posts, burgundy — Tags: , , , , , , , , — Bike tour guru @ 12:47 pm

DuVine Guide Keith Klein writes from France, looking forward to having everyone come to visit him this season on a bicycle tour in Burgundy.

Its the middle of winter here. The vineyards are full of people pruning off last year’s growth, being careful to leave one or two good shoots to bear the new crop. The days are short, and the temperature is hovering around freezing, and my thoughts are turning to ……. BIKING! And eating, drinking and sleeping too, of course.  The warm days will be here in a couple of short months, and none too soon for my liking.  Spring is one of my favorite times of year here among the Grand Crus. The spring flowers in the hills are fantastic; there are over 100 different species of wild orchids alone, and some can be found on every spring ride. The work in the fields will continue of course, but the wine in the barrels will be mellowing away until bottling time later in the year.  And best of all, our friends in the cellars will have time to show us around and offer some of their finest wines to taste. The sensational vintage of 2009 will at last be in bottles, although we will want to be patient as it slowly matures.

Why not book a spring bicycle tour in France to this lovely region, Burgundy, which I call home? The days will be warm enough to enjoy, although the nights can be brisk. But we can deal with cool nights, sitting before a roaring fire eating Boeuf Bougignon and washing it down with a Savigny-les-Beaune  premiere cru. Or how about wild boar, or Coq-au-Vin? And don’t forget Oeufs en Muerette, our Burgundian way to make eggs a dish fit for a Duke.  We’ll have time to visit a few friends, admire stunning views (on a clear day you can see the Alps), ride past enchanting castles, sample the local cheeses (Epoisses, yum!), and of course drink the finest wines in the world  ( I may be biased, but I’m right!).

I was out riding today and I happened upon our friend Bertrand Ambroise cutting firewood behind his winery. Those of you who have had the good luck to have tasted his wines know what he can do with the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes of Burgundy. We don’t always visit there, he’s a very busy man, but when we do it’s sublime.  And Bertrand, for all his virtuosity is not the only winemaker in Burgundy; Far from it!

I also stopped at Drouin-Laroze where the holiday atmosphere persists, at least for a while; Christine was busy, so I didn’t ask for photos (one should never put an elegant lady in a position not, uh, elegant so the decorations in the entrée to the domaine must tell the story. Come visit when the times are warmer and the lunch, prepared by ma chere amie, is ready to eat!

Let’s not neglect eating and sleeping! Chez Simon remains one of the little secrets we keep for our guests. The Chef (ALWAYS capitalized) keeps us excited by his preparations, and Carole, the lady of the house, is most welcoming. I LOVE the fact that one of the best restauranteurs in Burgundy (and in all of France) is married to the cousin of one of my cycling buddies . Not that this makes me in any way lenient in my critique of the food; NON! The cuisine is simply excellent, as you will discover. Its always market fresh, but I remember with fondness (longing?) his St. Jaques poele avec truffes d’ete. Sigh. And the hotels we use couldn’t be finer. I stopped by the Cep hotel in Beaune to wish everyone a happy new year (a tradition in France) and I am always thrilled to see the staff. So professional, so, well, perfect.

There is nothing in the world I enjoy more than cycling through Burgundy, a beautiful corner of the world, and I’d love to show it to you. Come visit us soon, or when the weather warms up!

BTW, leave a comment below on your favorite wine from Burgundy and maybe I will take a ride over to the winery and give it a try and post a picture of me enjoying a glass!

Cheers,

Keith

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