Cycling deep into the heart of Portugal in typical Andy DuVine style!
Have bike – will travel…and that is truly the case in the Alentejo…in fact, that should be this region’s slogan! It will certainly be the slogan for DuVine’s bike tour in Portugal.
Never before have I seen so many people out and about on the road on bicycles. And I don’t mean roadies in matching kits attempting col climbs in France or the gathering of thousands of cyclists participating in a charity event….I mean regular, every day village people “commuting” on bikes. Honestly it feels as if the invention of the automobile has yet to occur (as barely a car exists), and the only mode of transport is bicycle. And these bikes are just as dated as the concept of time here. It’s as if you pressed a pause button and life in the village was suspended in time. The men are dressed in old-fashioned hats and the women are clad in black dresses as they meander about town – speaking at street corner cafes, chatting in the crossroads, milling about town and gathering at the local market. They don no special gear to ride these archaic bikes and carry their wares from the market in baskets attached to the rear – be it fresh eggs in a wicker basket or a loaf of fresh bread and a bottle of wine.
At times, I almost felt like I was on the set of an old movie. In fact one of my favorite experiences occurred on a ride into Machede –such an unexpected and unique experience – the kind that only happens in movies. If I tried, I could never have even written a script like this!
It was another typical day on the road. I had being cycling by myself for 50 kilometers along a rather flat and seemingly endless stretch of road traveling by gypsy colonies, vineyard expanses, fields of hay and passing stray dogs and villagers out sweeping the streets with hand-fashioned brooms. I had begun to zone out, transfixed by this lovely meditative scenery as I began a descent down a long hill, when all of the sudden, I was snapped out of my zen-like state by a commotion down the hill. An accident? Some sort of village riot? All I could make out from my vantage point was that there was some sort of commotion going on…and all I could hear were loud voices and men screaming.
As I approached closer (a bit trepidatiously, I might add) I heard someone yell “ARMSTRONG!” Upon closer inspection, I see a large gathering of men dressed in old fashioned clothing and riding 50 year old bikes. Apparently they have gathered for a village tradition – a yearly ride – and I have somehow serendipitously arrived at the perfect time.
They immediately celebrated my (seemingly exalted) arrival by handing me a beer and a rather curious snack which I believed to be some sort of ham, but turned out to be a huge piece of pig fat on bread with garlic on top! (Not exactly what I wanted to swallow, but in keeping with tradition and in an effort to show respect, I raised my beer and downed the snack.) And then the 30 of us jumped on our bikes and I led as we paraded the remaining 5 kilometers into town with the streets lined with villagers cheering and clapping us on. I almost felt like the pied piper (or should I say biker) of Machede!
Here I was dressed in my DuVine kit on a brand new road bike riding alongside a group of villagers dressed in garb from the past riding 1-speed clunkers dating circa 1940. What a show it was!
Upon arrival, they then invited me to their BBQ lunch for chicken and sangria. It was an incredibly special experience…and all tied to the love of the bicycle! I cannot articulate how memorable and meaningful this day on a bike in the Alentejo region was!
And even though I spoke not a word of Portuguese, and they not a word of English, we all bonded over the bicycle and sangria! This stuff only happens when you least expect it. Truth really is stranger and much more exciting than fiction! What a day – and only in Portugal!!
What more is there to say? I could talk about the amazing 5 star hotels and the strongest Wi-Fi connections I’ve ever seen this side of planet Earth (freakish, actually…especially for a place that seems time-stamped in the less than tech-savvy past); the interesting and tasty wines (over 300 different types of grapes are grown in Portugual); the delicious grilled meats and uber fresh melon and fruits; the historic towns tiled in marble; the amazing vineyard visits (including stops at the “Dr.” of wine – Casa Sabico; Dona Maria, one of the top wine makers in Portugal; and a private visit to a well-known family’s palace and winery); but it is really all about the experience of cycling through this region, stepping back in time, looking at the world in a new way and meeting the generous and charismatic local people who share your love of the bicycle and its place in life and culture. Who knows…maybe you’ll stumble upon your own movie set in the making!
Oh and if you are looking for greener pastures, here’s an inside tip: I hear April and May in the Alentejo are the time to go!
Related articles
- Bike Tour in Portugal – The Wines of Alentejo (duvine.com)
- Guest Blog: Erica Stokes, repeat DuViner (duvine.com)
- The European Wine Harvest 2011 (duvine.com)

































































