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A DuVine Wine Tasting Lesson
Skillful tasting unlocks wine's treasures. This step-by-step
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Wine The Oenophile's Giving Guide
DuVine Adventures Wine Class 101: Burgundy
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Tuscany Wine information
- Chianti, Brunello, Vino Nobile
Rating
White Burgundy Wines
Check out the ratings for White Burgundy vintages from 1980-1997.
The Wines of Cote de Nuits and
Cote de Beaune We travel through the heart of the Cote
de Nuits and the Cote de Beaune.
Learn more about these two superb winegrowing regions.
Serving: Temperature and Glasses
Proper serving temperature and glassware for red and white
wines.
FAQs
Confused about Burgundy wine, this section may have answers
to them.
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TOP
BURGUNDY WINE 101
Burgundy is the birthplace of the Pinot Noir and the Chardonnay
and the scene of their development into two of the highest
quality grapes currently grown anywhere in the world.
Over the centuries they have made a perfect adaptation
to local conditions – a favorable climate plus well-drained
clay-limestone soils with good exposure – and now
produce on their home ground in Burgundy red and white wines
of unequalled richness, breeding and diversity.
Pinot Noir variety
The Pinot Noir is the parent of all red burgundies except
Mâcon Rouge and Bourgogne Passe-Tout-Grains. The name
has been known in Burgundy since the late 14th century but
the grape itself is certainly older than that. The bunches
are small and compact, pine-cone shaped, with small, tight,
ovoid grapes, thin-skinned and a velvety blue-black in color.
The juice is colorless. It is the maceration of the pigment-containing
skins during alcoholic fermentation which gives the juice
its fine cherry-red color tinged with a hint of violet.
The Pinot Noir prefers favorably exposed sites (south-east-facing
hill slopes) at an altitude of between 250 and 300 meters
with soils that are not too deep and consist of limy marls
with a high proportion of stones and good drainage. It is
susceptible to gray rot.
Some 10,000 hectares of Burgundy's vineyards are planted
to Pinot Noir, or 40% of the total area under vines. The
main areas of its cultivation are the Côte de Nuits,
Côte de Beaune and Côte Chalonnaise. The grade
of wine it yields varies according to location from a simple
Bourgogne Rouge – fresh, light, supple, and ready
to drink soon after it is made – to a Grand Cru of
the Côte de Nuits – deep-colored, rich, powerful,
and endowed with an aromatic complexity that will only reach
its fullest expression after a number of years in bottle.
Although the Pinot Noir is generally recognized to be among
the finest grape varieties, it is not grown as widely as
might be expected elsewhere in the world (Oregon, South
Africa, Switzerland, etc.). The reason lies in the tightly
defined parameters required for any site in which it can
be expected to give of its best, and its relative fragility
in unsuitable locations, for example, when exposed to a
climate that is either too hot or too cold.
Chardonnay variety
The Chardonnay grape yields all the white wines of Burgundy
except Bourgogne Aligoté and Bouzeron.
Its origins, though little known, go back a long way.
It may derive its name from the village of Chardonnay in
the Mâconnais, which has just celebrated its thousandth
anniversary. However, it was in the 19th century that it
really came into its own. It is a rather vigorous and heavy-cropping
variety but is badly affected by cold, especially by spring
frosts. The grape bunches are medium-sized, more elongated
and less tightly packed than those of the Pinot Noir. The
berries are small, slightly irregular in outline and a fine
golden yellow in color. The juice is abundant and very sweet.
The Chardonnay adapts well to different types of soil but,
ideally, prefers limy marls, often with a high proportion
of clay. Thanks to its adaptability, the Chardonnay is cultivated
in all districts of Burgundy and accounts for 12,000 hectares
or 48% of the total vineyard area.
As with the Pinot Noir, its expression varies according
terroir (soil and site) and it may produce unpretentious
white regional Bourgogne, or the light, fresh and appealing
Mâcon-Villages, or a rich, powerful and structured
Grand Cru such as Montrachet, or, yet again, a Chablis –
fruity and mineral-dry.
In contrast to the Pinot Noir, on the other hand, the Chardonnay
is today one of the most widely-grown grapes in the world,
found as far away as California, Australia and New Zealand.
It owes its success to its high quality and its ease of
cultivation. Burgundy, however, remains the point of reference
by which its success elsewhere is measured, and where the
Chardonnay yields some of the world's finest dry white wines.
Gamay variety
The Gamay is another early-maturing variety with white-juiced
black grape. It has small, compact, cylindrical bunches
with slightly ovoid, purple-black grapes covered by heavy
bloom.
The Gamay allowed today is a colorless-juiced one. In Burgundy,
it is cultivated to produce the Mâcon and Bourgogne
Passe-Tout-Grains appellations, mixed with Pinot Noir (minimum
1/3).
The Aligoté (early-maturing variety) is a semi-fine
white variety whose history goes back a long way in Burgundy.
It is quite vigorous and higher-yielding than the Chardonnay,
its grapes being both larger and more numerous.
It yields only one appellation : the Bourgogne Aligoté.
It may also be blended with other varieties – in
defined proportions – in Crémant de Bourgogne.
Four factors are essential to the production of
great wines:
- the right soil,
- the right grapes for that soil,
- the right climate,
- last but not least, the know-how of the wine
grower and wine-maker.
Nature has been kind to Burgundy in this respect and men
learned, early here, to understand and to exploit the particular
virtues of particular pieces of ground. The wine-growing
soils of Burgundy are a huge mosaic made up of a small plots
of vines, often marked off and enclosed by stone walls.
Each "terroir" has its own character, depending
on soil composition, altitude and exposure – factors
that can vary significantly within the space of a few meters.
So each plot is unique and this uniqueness is reflected
in the wine which is grown from it, in nuances of taste
and aroma.
The "cépage" or grape variety has to be
chosen in such a way as to give fullest expression to the
"terroir" on which it grows. It remains an extraordinary
fact, however, that despite its huge diversity of wines
and soils, Burgundy has concentrated on just two grape varieties,
though each supreme of its kind. So, with some minor exceptions,
all the wines of Burgundy are produced either from the Chardonnay
grape for white wines, or the Pinot Noir for reds. Of the
less widely-grown varieties, the main ones are Aligoté
and Gamay.
Climate is Nature's way of putting the finishing touch
to the personality of a wine. Burgundy enjoys a continental
climate with dry, cold winters and hot, sunny summers. In
these conditions the Pinot and Chardonnay ripen well and
are perfectly at home. Of course there are good years and
bad ones. And there are great years, to be welcomed as an
extra and special dispensation of an already generous Nature.
So climatic variation also contributes to the endless diversity
of Burgundy's wines.
Without the skill and know-how of the wine-growers and
wine-makers there would be no great wines. There are three
in the making of wine ; the cultivation of the grapes, vinification
(their transformation into wine), and "élevage"
– caring for the new wine until it is ready for drinking.
Each stage is a combination of natural processes and human
intervention, requiring patience, knowledge, discernment
and flair. Since we are not dealing with a purely mechanical
process but with one involving human judgment, the results
will not and cannot be either standardized or completely
predictable : there are as many individual wines as there
are individual wine-makers. Therefore the name of the grower
or négociant on the label can count for as much as
the appellation of the wine. It is his signature, and the
consumer's guarantee of quality and authenticity.
Burgundy's wine-capital, Beaune, lends its name to 5,000
hectares of majestic vineyards which extend from the village
of Ladoix-Serrigny to the hill-slopes of the Maranges. Variations
in terroir make the wines of the Côte de Beaune as
diverse in character as they are high in quality –
a spectrum which ranges from full, harmonious thoroughbred
reds to great rich whites, complex and subtle whose names
– Meursault, Montrachet and Corton Charlemagne –
are a byword among lovers of great dry white wines the world
over.
The prestige of the Côte de Nuits great wines has
earned title "the Champs-Elysées of Burgundy".
The vineyards stretch in a narrow east-facing band of gold
and purple along the hillsides between Marsannay and Corgoloin.
The "clos" (walled vineyards) date back to the
vine-growing estates of the great tenth-century abbeys.
To the monks, also, we owe much of our traditional lore
concerning "terroir" – the patch of native
soil from which a wine derives its special character –
and of "climats" – distinct, named plots
of land.
This is the kingdom of the Pinot Noir grape which lords
it over 3,000 hectares and eight mouth-wateringly named
villages. All the Grand Crus of the Côte d'Or (except
Corton) – famous names such as Chambertin, Clos de
Vougeot and Romanée-Conti – have their home
in this piece of smiling countryside. Further back are hill-slopes
of the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits – 550 hectares
of splendid wines yielding fine burgundies renowned for
their balance and aromatic qualities.
An age-old vineyard
But the origin of wine-growing in Burgundy goes back further
still though it cannot be precisely dated. Some would put
it as early as the 6th century BC; others date it from between
the 1st and 3rd centuries AD, following the Roman conquest.
The oldest extant documentary reference to the wines and
vineyards of Burgundy dates from the year 312 AD. It comes
from a speech made by one Eumenes, a citizen of Autun, and
attests to the presence of grapevines in the region.
In the 6th century the Frankish historian Gregory of Tours
speaks of "vine-covered hillsides".
Monastic wine-growing
In the 10th century the land, vineyards included, belonged
to the feudal aristocracy and the religious orders. The
monastic proprietors were not seeking short-term profit.
They wanted perfection and experimented with rootstocks,
pruning systems, cuttings, grafting, vinification methods,
and comparative tastings.
Their most important legacy to the world of wine was to
have invented the idea of the "climat", a named
and defined plot of ground with known productive properties.
Such plots were often enclosed with walls and these became
the famous Burgundian "clos". These two innovations
were fundamental to creating the special identity of Burgundy
wines.
Ducal Burgundy
The first Duke of Burgundy was Philippe de Valois, called
"the Bold" (Le Hardi) who, by his marriage to
Margaret of Flanders at the end of the 14th century, added
Flanders to Burgundy, doubling the extent of his possessions.
The splendors of the ducal court served to spread even wider
the reputation of Burgundy's wines, then known as "vins
de Beaune".
Over four generations between the late fourteenth and late
fifteenth centuries, the four Valois Dukes established Burgundy
as a powerful and prosperous state, entirely independent
of the kingdom of France.
Against this background "vin de Beaune" became
the best-known wine in Europe. For Burgundy, with
only limited facilities for river transport, it was vital
that the wine she exported should command a price that justified
the cost of its carriage.
Hôtel des Ducs de Bourgogne
This was a strong incentive to the pursuit of quality. Ducal
edicts intended to guarantee the quality of wine were promulgated
at this time. The monks made Burgundy wine a serious
product, but they kept it largely to themselves. But in
the flowering of Burgundian culture under her Dukes, wine
became a high quality commercial product, accessible, fashionable,
and exportable.
The 18th century: the rise of the négociant
An improved road network in the 18th century boosted commercial
exchanges between Burgundy and Paris, as well as with the
North European ports and so with the wider world.
The first "négociants" (wine merchants)
were simply middlemen. But gradually the trade became organized
and the first firms established themselves in Beaune and,
later, in Nuits-Saint-Georges and undertook the care of
the wines – new casks, racking, maturing. etc. (This
process, of caring for the wine between vinification and
sale, is known as "élevage", hence the
name "négociant-éleveur). At the same
time, the gradual introduction of glass bottles from 1750
onward opened up the possibility of endowing wines with
better keeping qualities.
1789: Revolution
During the Revolution, properties were broken up. Church
estates were confiscated by the State and put up for sale.
The modern pattern of land ownership in the Burgundian vineyards,
divided and subdivided among a large number of proprietors,
can be traced back to this time.
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RATING WHITE BURGUNDY VINTAGES
1980-1997
| Vintage |
Rating* |
Comment |
| 1997 |
88 |
Best are pleasant, supple. Uneven in Meursault, Puligny,
Chassagne. Great in Chablis, Pouilly-Fuissé.
Drink or hold. |
| 1996 |
95 |
Still improving. Elegant, racy, with well-defined,
pure, clean flavors. Best to cellar for years, otherwise
decant. Drink or hold. |
| 1995 |
93 |
Rich, thick and generous, concentrated, with good
aging potential. Drink or hold. |
| 1994 |
87 |
Charming, soft, honeyed Chardonnays; aging fast. Drink. |
| 1993 |
82 |
Austere, lean; best are elegant. Drink. |
| 1992 |
89 |
Balanced; great finesse, lovely fruit. Best still
improving. Drink or hold. |
| 1991 |
85 |
Fruity, charming, delicious now. Drink. |
| 1990 |
92 |
Racy, graceful, minerally. Some are peaking. Drink. |
| 1989 |
92 |
Rich, opulent. Some taste hot, alcoholic, but best
should still improve. Drink or hold. |
| 1988 |
86 |
Have stayed very firm, hard and ungenerous. Drink
or hold. |
| 1987 |
84 |
Fresh, simple. Were enjoyable, but fruit now gone
from many. Drink. |
| 1986 |
92 |
Seductive, opulent and honeyed for years; now peaking.
Drink. |
| 1985 |
94 |
Bold, powerful yet elegant; some remain youthful.
Drink or hold. |
| 1984 |
78 |
Light, tart, very simple. Drink. |
| 1983 |
85 |
Uneven; some are rich but heavy. Drink. |
| 1982 |
83 |
Some surprises, but generally light. Drink. |
| 1981 |
82 |
Difficult, uneven vintage; high acidity. Drink. |
| 1980 |
73 |
Mostly unripe and diluted. Drink. |
*Vintage Ratings
95-100: classic
90-94: outstanding
80-89: good to very good
70-79: average
60-69: below average
50-59: poor
TOP
THE WINES OF CÔTE
DE NUITS AND CÔTE DE BEAUNE
Côte de Nuits
The wines of the Côte de Nuits are an incitement to
meditation. Great red wines, deep and rich, best enjoyed
in the evening when the light is fading over the land between
Fixin and Corgoloin. Even in a land blessed by the Gods,
the Côte de Nuits is a little paradise. It is a strip
of land some twenty kilometers in length and in places no
more than three hundred meters in width. And within its
fifteen hundred hectares (3,700 acres) are to be found a
rich variety of nuances ranging from the power of a Chambertin
to the grace of a Musigny. Here are found some of the most
famous names in all of Burgundy. Less splendid in renown,
but by no means negligible are the vineyards of the Hautes-Côtes
de Nuits (some 500 hectares/1,240 acres) and Côtes
de Nuits-Villages whose red and white wines are an introductory
step towards more sublime pleasures.
These include Marsannay, Fixin, and Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes
de Nuits – supple and well-built wines with intense
red-fruit aromas.
From Gevrey-Chambertin come high-bred powerful, deep-colored
wines, tannic and square-shouldered, made for long aging.
Morey-Saint-Denis, meaty and with a long finish, has generous
aromas of blackcurrant and wild cherry which over time are
enhanced by notes of wild animals and spices.
Chambolle-Musigny is lacy, delicate and distinguished,
the most supple of the Côte de Nuits wines.
Vougeot is ample, meaty, and remarkably well balanced,
combining power with elegance. The whites are supple, rich
and quite full-bodied.
Vosne-Romanée is smooth and elegant, long in the
mouth, with aromas of cherry, strawberry and underwood.
Nuits-Saint-Georges is strongly colored, solid and full-bodied
with complex aromas of red fruits, fur and spices.
Concentrated in the villages of this district are all the
Grand Cru reds of Burgundy with the exception of Corton.
There are twenty-two of these prestigious appellations:
Charmes-Chambertin, Clos-de-la-Roche, Bonnes-Mares, Romanée-Saint-Vivant,
Clos-de-Vougeot, and others, not forgetting the rare Musigny,
which happens also to be the only Grand Cru white of the
Côte de Nuits. The Musigny reds are as powerful and
solidly-built as the whites – elegant and distinguished,
both being known for their breeding, smoothness, fullness,
and irresistible aromatic subtlety. All the Côte de
Nuits wines have, like the art of meditation itself, an
unhurried quality, and can offer a sensual pleasure so intense
that you will remember it all your life.
TOP
Côte de Beaune: Inspiration
The Côte de Beaune wines, like the gift of creativity
itself, have the ability to inspire. And it was divine inspiration
which in 1443 drove Nicolas Rolin to found his Hôtel-Dieu,
the famous Hospices de Beaune, to aid the sick and needy.
It was a divinely-inspired decision that put the revenues
from the sale of the Hospice's wines to the upkeep of the
hospital and the modernization of its services. And so that
is why now, each November, wine-lovers from the world over
flock to the sale by auction of these great wines. There
they find themselves at the very heart of the Côte
de Beaune, which stretches from Ladoix-Serrigny to Maranges
– twenty kilometers and 3,000 hectares (7,400 acres)
of inexhaustible creativity where the finest dry white wines
in the world rub shoulders with highly-renowned red crus.
Throughout the nineteen villages of the Côte de Beaune,
the red wines derive exclusively from the Pinot Noir grape.
With the addition of the Côte de Beaune-Villages wines
and the 400-odd hectares (990 acres) of regional Bourgogne
Hautes-Côtes de Beaune, the result is a complete range
including communal appellations with their Premiers Crus
and the single Grand Cru – Corton. The wines of Ladoix,
Pernand-Vergelesses, Chorey, Savigny, Monthélie,
Auxey-Duresses, Saint-Romain, Saint-Aubin, Santenay, Maranges
and the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune are fine, well-fruited,
supple, and elegant. Those of Aloxe-Corton, Beaune, Volnay,
and Chassagne-Montrachet are ample, well-structured, richly
aromatic and of great distinction. Pommard and Corton contribute
highly-colored wines which are powerful, generous, firm
and solidly-built. There is a full range, too, of whites
from the Chardonnay grape. They have a fine bright golden
color and richly and complex aromas recalling hazelnut and
honey. In many cases they have as long a cellar life as
the reds and are no less splendid. Those of Pernand-Vergelesses,
Auxey-Duresses, Saint-Romain and Saint-Aubin are well-rounded,
elegant and delicate; those of Meursault, Chassagne-Montrachet
and Puligny-Montrachet have fullness, finesse and a miraculous
balance – a brilliant gamut of premiers crus and grands
crus culminating in Montrachet and Corton-Charlemagne the
most sumptuous of all white wines, at once rich and meaty,
subtle and powerful. Here in the heart of the Côte
de Beaune you are also in the heart of Burgundy. Here the
whole history of wine and the vine is open to you. And here,
as a final touch of the inspiration, is the capital, Beaune
itself.
Character of Beaune Wines
The red wines which come from the centre and southern parts
of the Beaune area are tannic and powerful: their color
is generally quite dark and they give out aromas both fruity
(fruit berries) and "animal" at the same time.
The wines coming from the North have a less intense color
and are blessed with a fine suppleness.
Beaune whites are supple and rich with good acidity which
gives them good structure Their fullness puts them on the
level of the top grade whites – similar to Chassagne.
Keeping Qualities of Beaune Wines
The Beaune reds wines offer good aging potential when coming
from the southern and central areas: they reach their peak
after 8 to 10 years for normal years and around 15 to 20
years in great years. The wines from the northern part of
the côte (towards Savigny) will be ready for drinking
after 5 years. Wines from great years will have a potential
of around 12 to 15 years. White wines are usually at their
best after 5 to 10 years evolution.
TOP
SERVING: TEMPERATURE AND
GLASSES
The red wines should be served at 15°–16°C.
Uncorking the bottle one or two hours before serving generally
improves the "volume" and purity of the aromas.
White wines require a cooler serving temperature : around
12°–14°C. They are mellow enough to support
this temperature ; any colder and the bouquet may be lost.
Large balloon style glasses are best adapted to the qualities
of the red wines, the size of the surface area helping the
rapid development of the bouquet.
Tulip shaped glasses are best for the elegant presentation
of the white wines.
TOP
WINE FAQs
What is the size of the Burgundy wine areas?
Burgundy represents only 0.6% of the total wine areas of
the world :
Chablis: 5,300 ha (13,000 acres)
Côte de Nuits: 3,300 ha ( 8,100 acres)
Côte de Beaune: 6,600 ha ( 14,800 acres)
Côte Chalonnaise: 4,700 ha (11,600 acres)
Mâconnais: 5,700 ha (14,000 acres)
Beaujolais: 22,700 ha (56,000 acres)
What is the volume of wine produced?
130,000 hectoliters of Beaujolais
790,000 hectoliters of white Burgundy (all appellations)
540,000 hectoliters of red Burgundy (all appellations)
How many people produce wine in Burgundy?
About 30,000 in Burgundy, 8,000 of which produce only Côte
d'Or wines.
There are roughly 4,300 domains in Burgundy, with 1,450
in the Côte d'Or.
What is the average size of an estate in the Côte
d'Or?
Barely 6.35 hectares (15 acres).
How many owners are there per appellation?
The Montrachet covers about 8 ha with 14 owners, the Romanée
Conti (1.8 ha) is a monopoly, and the Clos de Vougeot, the
largest Grand Cru, (50 ha) has over 80 owners!
TOP |