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December 20, 2011

Andy’s Top 10 Bicycle Rides of 2011

Filed under: Active Travel, Adventure Travel, Bordeaux, Challenging Rides, Corsica, Costa Rica, European bike tours, France, Italy, Pan Mass Challenge, Portugal, Pro Series, Provence, Rioja, South America, Spain, Top 10 lists, Tour de France — Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , — Bike tour guru @ 1:36 pm

As our 2011 season nears the finish line and our 2012 adventure travel season gets ready to kick off, I want to take a few minutes to look back on some of my favorite rides of the year and share them with you — and perhaps inspire some of the DuVine spirit of adventure in my fellow cycling enthusiasts.

And, though I may be revealing some “DuVine secrets” by rating my top 10, the real secret to the DuVine experience is experiencing these rides and places yourself. So, while I may be divulging the “where” and my perspective on these rides, only you can make them truly DuVine. Come see for yourself in 2012!

My top 10 of 2011 (in no particular order…)

bike tour in corsica

Epic ride in Corsica

Bicycle Tour Corsica, France
Enough is never enough at DuVine, and as proud as we are of all our tours, we are always looking to add more. So, this past summer, I set off to explore the magnificent French island of Corsica. And I was simply wowed at everything I found there. Corsica is a truly cycling haven, dotted with over 120 peaks taller than 2000 meters (talk about epic riding), but utterly devoid of traffic, leaving you to tackle climb after climb in complete peace. The riding aside, Corsica itself is the epitome of Mediterranean grandeur, and I made sure to take it all in. The landscape is as diverse as anywhere else I’ve seen, ranging from ocean-side vistas to breathtaking rock formations and lowland deserts. And when the day of riding is done, the island offers only the most sublime opportunities for rest and relaxation, whether that means lounging on the beach, indulging in some fine French cuisine, or taking in the island’s rich history (I made sure to do all of them). Now that it’s a new year, I can’t wait to introduce you to Corsica as one of the latest DuVine Adventures.

Costa Rica Active Adventure: Tamarindo to Playa Puerto Viejo
I hope you’re an animal lover, because this ride brings you as close to tropical wildlife as you could ever hope to get. After a morning of surfing at Tamarindo beach (this is a multisport adventure, after all), we hopped on our bikes to tackle the dirt roads from our beautiful surf spot to Puerto Viejo, Conchal, and Brasilito beach. We were followed all the way by the sounds of howler monkeys, toucans, cicadas, and way more. It’s like going on a safari, but instead of speeding along in a Jeep, we were up close and personal with nature as we pedaled along through the dense rain forest. And as if the ride weren’t reward enough, we then found ourselves parked in front of a fleet of ocean kayaks, ready to tackle the new terrain of crystal clear waters ahead of us. Half the adventure was just getting from our morning to our afternoon ocean-bound adventures, and it would have been such a shame to get there by car…. Good thing we didn’t!

bike tour in costa rica

Riding the beach in Costa Rica with guides Vlad and Ronald

Bicycle Tour Provence, France: Gordes to Mont Ventoux
Mont Ventoux may not be required on this day of our Provence bike tour, but I can’t get in the neighborhood of this legendary climb without pointing my wheels skyward and giving it my all. Battling the wind the whole way up, only the moon-like landscape and the sound of my own breathing to keep me company, this climb was anything but forgiving. But it’s definitely worth the battle. The route leading up to this iconic ascent, fortunately, is a lot more forgiving, but no less spectacular. We rode from the village of Gordes, exploring all that Luberon has to offer. Rolling towards Roussillon, we took in the famous Ochre cliffs which surround the village and are responsible for the ochre-colored homes you see all around you. After riding along above the great valley below, a decadent afternoon snack at the House of Truffles and Wine was enough to fuel my bonus mileage assault on Mont Ventoux, helping me chase the ghosts of Marco Pantani and Lance Armstrong all the way.

Bicycle Tour The Alps – Tour de France: Galibier to Alpe d’Huez
What a day, what a day, what a day. I’m not sure who had a better time on this ride: Pierre Rolland with his race winning move up the Alpe d’Huez, or me as I relieved decades of Tour de France glory with my own epic assault on the Galibier and the Alpe. With two HC climbs in succession, it was nothing short of one the most epic days I’ve had on the bike yet. With the Tour de France and the DuVine Pro Series TdF bike tour rolling in just weeks after my ride, I had a race of my own on my hands against the owner of the bike shop Cycle Huez. (I won’t tell you who won, though.) Needless to say, this ride is an absolute must for any Tour de France aficionados, and anyone looking to push their limits. It’s a good thing DuVine Adventures has both its Alps – Tour de France bike tour and its Alps Pro bike tour to get you there.

bike tour alpe d'huez

On the descent of Alpe d'Huez

Bicycle Tour Piedmont, Italy: Orsara Bormida Loop
Isn’t everything better with a glass of wine? Isn’t everything even better with a bike ride with the man who makes that glass of wine…followed by a dinner at his vineyard…made by his mother? Yeah, I think so too. Leaving from Acqui Terme, this ride follows an enchanting route to quaint Italian villages like the precariously perched Orsara Bormida and the hilltop town of Cremolino. The reward for keeping pace with pro mountain biker, wine maker, and DuVine tour guide Guido Rapetti is well worth the effort, though. In addition to that exquisite meal prepared by Guido’s parents in our own priavte restaurant, we are we privileged with the chance to see first hand what goes into a great bottle of wine.

Lake Como, Italy: Bellagio to Madonna del Ghisallo
How could a ride that includes a hill named for the patron saint of cycling (Madonna del Ghisallo) be anything other than absolutely perfect? Well, it couldn’t be. Never one to just sit back and stop exploring, I set off on a new adventure this summer to check out the Lake Como region for, you guessed it, another new DuVine Adventures destination. And man was I thrilled. The riding around this gorgeous lake was nothing short of epic — the Madonna del Ghisallo is, after all, one of the major obstacles in the Giro di Lombardia every year. The climbing is well worth it, though, for a chance to visit the shrine of the Madonna del Ghisallo, which also happens to be an awesome cycling museum, filled with rare artifacts of the sport like old photos and jerseys.

lake como bike tour

Climbing around Como

The Pan-Mass Challenge: Day 1 – Sturbridge to Bourne, Massachusetts
This is a ride that is not just an unbelievable journey, but is of unbelievable importance to me. This was my third straight year participating in this incredible event, which has raised over $300 million dollars for cancer research and treatment at the Dana-Farber Cancer Institute. And I couldn’t be more proud that DuVine is a part of it, contributing several trips to help raise money for this outstanding cause. And the riding is almost as amazing as the cause itself. This monster of a day covers 111 miles from Sturbridge to Bourne, and is by far the hardest day of the event. The real brunt of the route comes in the first 50 miles, with hill after hill after hill. Thankfully, the next 60 miles are a lot flatter, but by the end of the day you’ve ascended 2,500 feet, which is no small amount. But with thousands of other riders around you, all pedaling for the same cause, it’s pretty easy to get inspired and tough it out to the end.

Bicycle Tour Bordeaux, France: St. Emilion to the Medoc

There’s truly no better way to appreciate a glass of wine than to see where it came from…and then drink it! So that’s what I did, heading to Bordeaux to join one of our tours right in the heart of the harvest. On this magical day, we wound our way from village to vineyard, and down the majestic banks of the Dordogne river and to the Gironde estuary. Taking in all the rich history of this home to some of the world’s most outstanding wine, we paused for lunch before hopping on the ferry across the Gironde. We rode into the heart of the Cabernet Sauvignon and the Medoc, landing finally at incomparable Cordeillan Bages. Bikes and wine. Wine and bikes. What’s not to love! in Bordeaux, it’s hard to choose which is better.

bike tours portugal

Portugal...where everyone's a cyclist!

Bicycle Tour Portugal: Monsaraz to Evora
I always knew that any bike ride had the potential for great adventure, but until my trip to Portugal this year I didn’t realize it could be a trip through time as well. Riding along the bucolic Portuguese roads, I could have sworn I’d ridden backwards in time, before the automobile took over the world. Virtually everyone I encountered was commuting around on ancient bikes, whether on their way to work, the market, or just a date at the local cafe. Clearly, this country was made for riding. And the route from Monsaraz to Evora is my absolute favorite. On this journey through time, we rolled past quaint old pottery shops and along streets lined with cork trees. Best of all, this ride brought us to the doorstep of the eponymous Joaquim Madeira, one of the foremost authorities on Alentejo wine and our gracious host for an afternoon gazpacho and wine tasting. Refueled with a healthy dose of the local vegetation and vino, we wind down the day with a ride into Evora, where we are spoiled once again by the warm Portuguese hospitality.

Bicycle Tour Rioja, Spain: Madrid to Abalos
After the only long drive of the week from Madrid to Abalos (which I promise is well worth the wait), there truly can’t be a better place in the world to get out and stretch your legs. We kick off the week right with a spin out alongside the Rioja wine country, with nothing in sight but a seemingly endless sea of vineyards…and you and your bike, of course. There is hardly a car in sight, making for a smooth transition into a week of pure paradise. After a rolling loop in the country, we get one steep kick back up to the hotel, which is the perfect chance to open up the legs for the riding ahead and to race to be the first to enjoy an evening cocktail to toast the beginning of a great adventure. Salud!

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August 30, 2011

The European Wine Harvest 2011

Filed under: Drink, France, Italy, Piedmont, Rioja, Spain, Tuscany, Wine Tasting, burgundy — Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , — Bike tour guru @ 1:08 pm

A hundred days ago, while western Europe was basking in some unusably warm April sunshine, vines from Burgundy to Bordeaux, Touraine to Tuscany and Alsace to Alentejo began to bloom. Busy insects quickly went about their business visiting small flower after small flower, pollinating and fertilizing the countless meters of vine stock and starting the most visible few months of the 2011 wine season that will soon culminate in this year’s harvest, which will of course serve as the backdrop for many of our European bike tours.

European bike tours during the grape harvest

Harvest time in the vineyards

In the three months since bumble bees, wasps and our other flying friends did their work, diligent wine makers have carefully monitored their vines as they make the seemingly magical journey from flower to fruit. Deep-set roots have fed on underlying minerals and raw elements; rain has nourished young shoots; plump bunches of grapes have ripened in warm sunshine; leaves have photosynthesized sunshine into sugar:tannin-rich skins have stiffened in the wind and countless man hours have gone into the nurturing of the golden, purple and russet bunches of grapes that any day now will be picked and pressed to become the much awaited 2011 vintage.

Will it be a great year for Burgundian reds? A stunner for Champagne? A blow out in Bordeaux? It’s to hard to say sitting in our office in Boston so we have asked our guides on the ground for a quick pre-harvest round up.

Bike Tour Tuscany Italy

Tuscany awaits harvest

Tom reports from Italy that in Tuscany all the winemakers agree that this has been a strange year weather-wise.  A warm, dry spring led to early flowering, but then some rainy weeks in June and July seemed to slow down the maturation process.  Winemakers are always a bit coy when discussing the prospects for the coming vintage, like card-players unwilling to reveal their hands.  This is largely due to the fact that they have experienced a lifetime of fickle weather.  A perfect hot, dry summer can produce a mediocre vintage if September brings a lot of rain.  Conversely, a hot, dry end of the season can help turn around a mediocre summer.  Talking with our friend Vittorio Innocenti, a Vino Nobile producer in Montefollonico and with Barbara at the Brunelli Winery in Montalcino, there seems to be a sense of cautious optimism.  They are predicting an early harvest here as well (beginning in the 2nd week of September) and have already started preparing for the “vindemmia” by bottling some older wines to make space in the barrels and confirming the harvest dates with their picking crews.  This next month will be essential in determining whether 2011 will be one of the great vintages that we cherish years down the road or a weak vintage that languishes in the discount aisle at your local wine shop.

Piedmont bike tours during the grape harvest

Piedmont grapes ready

The grape harvest, or vendemia, is in full swing in Piedmont, starting with the moscato grapes. The moscato grapes produce a delicate still desert wine, with little resemblance to “your father’s” frizzy moscato d’Asti. Moscato vineyards grace several of the routes of our Piedmont bike tour on the first three days, along with little-known gems like Arneis, Cortese, Brachetto, and classics like Barbera and Dolcetto, prior to our route taking us into the more world-renowned Barolo region, with it’s noble Nebbiolo grape. The Nebbiolo grape, one of the latest harvested (even it’s name in Italian includes the word nebbia, or fog, as it is typically picked when the autumn fogs begin rolling into the vineyards), won’t be ready for harvest for another several weeks, though most certainly earlier than normal, due to the hot, dry summer here.

Our guides on the Cote D’ Or in Burgundy tell a similar story. Burgundians are keeping as tight-lipped as ever and any early optimisms for the year are being underplayed with typical shoulder shrugs and “Je ne se pas”. There are rumblings in the southern Cote D’Or that the recent heat wave could lead to some interesting results from the regions world-class Chardonnays, but if the heat remains for the harvest itself, forcing the grapes to cook a little in their hods, that could all change. In the Cote de Nuits  humidity and an airless July mean many worried about disease, possible low production and lack of concentration, but again the heatwave may have come to the rescue! Alas many lost their whole harvest to freak hail storms in the Beaujolais in late July, but St Vincent was smiling on the cote D’ Or and her grapes remained untouched and all indications are for a good year.  An early flowering and dry May have also instigated an early harvest, with picking for Chardonnay starting any day while the Pinot Noir will wait for the first week of September.

Burgundy France bike tours during the grape harvest

Vendange in Burgundy

The word from Pablo in Spain is that the harvest in the Rioja and Ribera regions will coincide perfectly with our October Rioja bike tour. Excellent weather in 2011 is due to produce another excellent year in Spain. Not a lot of rain, good terroir, and new investments in wineries have set the stage.

Whether 2011 is a good year for Europe’s wines remains to be tasted. But one thing is for sure; there has never been a better time to get on a bicycle and visit these fascinating wine regions. In Champagne, Rioja, Provence, Burgundy, Piedmont and Loire Valley wine harvests have been taking place for thousands of years and the time honored practice of picking the grapes, pressing them and turning them into wine has changed very little. Many grapes are still picked by hand, whole communities work together and post harvest celebrations and pageantry are second to none! We know that a DuVine Adventure is the best way to get a real feel for this fascinating element of the wine making experience – a unique chance to get caught up in the excitement and the energy of the process. So why not saddle up and come and find out for yourself why 2011 is a great year for a pedal-powered wine adventure and you can witness wine history in the making!

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August 29, 2011

Guest Blog: Erica Stokes, repeat DuViner

Filed under: Guest Posts, Italy, Rioja, Spain, Tuscany — Tags: , , , , , , , — Bike tour guru @ 1:16 pm

In August of 2010, I (Erica Stokes) was badly in need of a scenery change.  I had to get away.  Feeling the itch to get out of town, I Googled “life changing trips” and clicked away until a I found myself on the DuVine Adventures website a short while later.  I didn’t have a destination in mind when I started my search, and after seeing what DuVine had to offer, I really didn’t care where my travels were going to take me. I knew this was the perfect tour company for me, and I was going to be on the next available trip with them – no matter where it was.  I went straight to the trip calendar to find that a bike trip for Rioja was taking place in two weeks.  I already knew I loved the region’s wine, so I booked my first DuVine Adventure.

Bike Tour Rioja Spain

My first DuVine experience in Rioja

As a solo traveler and novice cyclist, I had some nerves creep up on me in the days prior to my departure.  This was going to be my first solo trip abroad.  First trip to Spain.  No bilingual skills.  In running shape? Yes.  In biking shape?  No!  Pedals and clips and only a week to learn how?!  Can Rioja be done on a hybrid?  All of these fears were put to ease by Holly and Megan in the Boston office, and by my guide in Madrid.  DuVine took care of me from start to finish, and the only thing on my mind was enjoying my rides through Rioja.  I had an extraordinarily unique experience in Rioja, as my group consisted of only two other travelers.  This meant lots of solo time on the road for me to soak up gorgeous Rioja views, with my DuVine support van just far enough away should I need any help.  Never once did I have to worry about bicycle mechanics, what I was having for dinner, how to order said dinner in Spanish… or anything really for that matter.  The experience was truly life changing for me.  So magical, in fact, that I went on my second DuVine adventure less than 12 months later.

Bike Tour Rioja Spain

Life changing...

Four measly months after my first trip with DuVine to Rioja, I began having withdrawal symptoms.  Nobody was setting up roadside picnics in castles for me, and mid day wine tastings ceased to exist.  I needed DuVine style back in my life!  I couldn’t wait any longer to get back on the bike in wine country, so I got in touch with my Boston travel experts and asked them what the “must see” trip was.  They told me that the Tuscany bike tour is the most popular DuVine tour, and they recommended that for my next trip.  I booked my second DuVine Adventure, this time with my college volleyball teammate and best friend, Lindsay.  Our trip was planned for the second week of August.

Bike Tour Tuscany Italt

Lindsay and me in Tuscany

Being a DuVine guest for the second time around, I felt a little smug going into the trip.  On our first day when the guides picked us all up from the Chiusi train station, I felt like I had a leg up on the other guests, “They have no idea how amazing this is going to be! And I do!”, I couldn’t help but scream on the inside.  Truth be told, I couldn’t have been more impressed by our group.  After an introduction to the other guests at the train station, you could already see intermingling and bonding taking place.  We had some truly special people on this tour.  One guest in our group later said that it was as if DuVine had hand selected all of us to be on the trip together, that’s how well everyone gelled!

Here’s my recap of our fabulous week in Tuscany:

Bike Tour Tuscany Italy

With my guides

Day One:
Our guides begin the trip with a Chiusi train station pick up, where we meet our fellow cyclists for the week.  We head to the villa La Chiusa for our first two nights in Montefollonico and we relaxed on the terrace to unwind from a morning of traveling.  The unwinding includes gearing up for our first ride though, so once in our gear, we hit the road by easing into the week with a fifteen mile out and back.  Our destination for the afternoon is the Church of San Biagio (just on the outskirts of Montepulciano), where our guides give us a history of the beautiful 8th century church.  Upon our arrival back to La Chiusa, we meet for a champagne toast on the terrace overlooking the hills of where we were riding just that afternoon.  Dania brings us the most fabulous pizza appetizer I’ve ever tasted, and despite the warnings of a large meal to come, Lindsay and I can’t help but enjoy the delicious homemade creation.  As a New Yorker of eleven years, I can’t pass up a good bite of pizza!  At dinner, a fellow guest suggested we all sit next to someone new, and I think this was a fabulous way for the group to really get to know one another from the very beginning.  We enjoyed a long meal with wine, the serenade of our guide Angelo strumming away on his guitar, and of course, limoncello!

Day Two:
We ride to Pienza, a gorgeous quintessential Tuscan village buzzing with locals.  We cooled down from our morning ride with an ice cold beer (carbs are good for you!), and walked through the town center.  I actually had to jump out of the way of two young girls riding their bicycles through town as we were on our way to find some of the region’s finest Porchetta.  Lindsay, Lisa and I ordered up some sandwiches and enjoyed them on a stone wall overlooking one of the most gorgeous views we had all week.  There’s a fantastic Porchetta place in my NYC neighborhood, but I’ll never be able to replicate the one I had in Pienza!  We finish our ride for the day and head back to La Chiusa, completing a total of 23 miles.  Bob and Bill were all stars in today’s riding, keeping the group moving quite swiftly. Already I am wishing I had done some kind of training for this riding!   Some of the goup head back to get ready for dinner, while others stay and recap the day’s ride over a few Italian beers.  The evening is only just beginning though, as we head out to our private wine tasting in Montefollonico.

Bike Tour Tuscany Italy

Best place on earth for a porchetta sandwich!

Walking out to Vittorio’s garden was quite a memorable experience.  The only sound to be heard were the “ooo’s and ahhh’s” of the group as each of us walked out the back door and took in the stunning view of Chiana Valley.  There was a long table set up in the garden, and we enjoyed 3 tastings before heading off to dinner at Botte Piena.  After another robust meal with succulent wines, the group was all looking forward to a walk home.  We were in for a special treat on this night though, as there was a dance festival with local teenagers competing in the tango and other fabulous traditional dances just a few steps away from dinner.  Feeling the wine and still somewhat strong legs after only two days of biking, the DuVine guests created their own dance party off to the side.  Fellow guests Kristi and Michele tried recruiting some Italian dance partners for the dancing DuVine ladies, but none of them were brave enough to join us.  We didn’t need them anyway though, since Seattle Michelle was good enough to share Sean with us for our dance party!  We’d like to think the Italian women were jealous of our moves, but Davide and Angelo weren’t too sure about that…

Bike Tour Tuscany Italy

With Vittorio

Day Three:
This was perhaps the most memorable day of cycling for me, as the views on the way to Montalcino were just breathtaking.  It was a tough morning of rolling hills, and a stop in tiny Torrenieri for an espresso and some hydration prior to our climb to the Vecchia Oliveria.  Fellow guest Laurie even got in some extra miles of her own today!  The gorgeous ride ended with a challenging 7k climb into Montalcino.  I have to thank my fellow cyclist Chris for getting me up this hill.  As long as he was still in sight, I kept cranking away!  Chris led the pack today and finished strong in Montalcino.  Feeling quite accomplished at this point, we stood on the back terrace of the Vecchia Oliveria and cheered for our fellow riders as they came in to finish the climb!

Bike Tour Tuscany Italy

View of Montalcino

With the afternoon to explore Montalcino, many in the group kept their momentum going with a walk around the village.  For me, it was more pizza with Lindsay and Chris.  We weren’t the only ones though, as we bumped into Bob and Kristi doing the very same thing just a few steps away.  Several group members, myself included, hit the shops for some Brunello and Chianti Classico bike jerseys.  We had a choice in evening festivities, and the group split up prior to dinner.  Half of the group chose the exclusive cooking class in private townhouse owned by Lina and Domenico, while the other half indulged in a wine tasting at the fourteenth-century Fortress of Montalcino.  The tasting was held inside the fortress at Enoteca la Fortezza di Montalcino.  Lindsay went for the cooking class with several of the ladies and our chef tour guide, Davide.  I, on the other hand, kind of prefer to have someone else do the cooking – so I joined the others and guide Angelo for a Brunello tasting.  We enjoyed our wine and then experienced the absolute most magnificent sunset I’ve ever known.  Finally, we met the rest of our group for dinner at Lina and Domenico’s, where we were enjoyed a fabulous homemade Tuscan feast!

Day Four:
We had an early start in Montalcino, and because of it we got to experience a seriously energizing sunrise from the breakfast room balcony of the Vecchia Oliveria.  Everyone in our group opted for the early start so we could head down to Sant’Antimo to hear the tranquil and soothing Gregorian chanting.  With the gang feeling zen, we enjoy some breakfast and began our longest ride of the week.  We are greeted with a guest guide appearance by the DuVine Italian tour manager, Tom.  Tom leads the way out of Montalcino (what a fabulous descent!) and off to our first stop, the Abbey of Monte Oliveto Maggiore.  We have a tour and history lesson from Tom, and then our chef in spandex, Davide, presents us with a fabulous gourmet picnic lunch.

Once we conquer our final climb into Siena, Guide Angelo points out a shortcut for the final stretch into Siena, which honestly appears to be a cobblestone wall, that he rode vertically up.  Most of us opted for the roundabout entrance to Siena, but Sean and Bob took Angelo’s challenge and defeated the pro level climb like it’s something they’ve been doing for years.

Siena was so alive!  We had some time for recovery before dinner, and a few of us found the answer to that in the form of gelato in a walk through the streets of Siena.  Oh, how delicious!

Bike Tour Tuscany Italy

in Sienna

The night was supposed to be an “on your own for dinner” evening, but at this point our group had become so close that we opted to stick together for another group meal.  Angelo and Davide even joined us on their night off!  After dinner, we sat in the Piazza del Campo sipping limoncello, listening to fans of the Il Palio as they sang cheers and chants in support of their team’s horse that would be racing the following week.

Day Five:
We awaken in Siena and head out for our final day of riding.  The legs are feeling pretty tired by this point, and more than ever do I wish I had done some kind of training for this trip.  Even a week of spinning (or anything more than nothing!) probably would have helped, but still – I had enough to make it through each ride and love every moment of it.  A few miles prior to our first stop, Lindsay and I made our own pit stop in San Felice for a roadside photo shoot with my camera on its timer.  The perfectly manicured rows of grapes were mesmerizingly beautiful!

I really enjoyed the mid-ride tasting when we stopped at Castelli di Brolio.  The reds were fantastic, and I happily accepted Lindsay’s portion of the tasting too, when she (perhaps for the wiser) decided to hydrate with water for the rest of the ride instead of some vino rosso.  Feeling quite relaxed after our tasting, I spent some of the afternoon biking alongside fellow New Yorker and new friend, Lisa, and we soaked up the views together for several miles.  Arriving in Chianti was an overwhelming mixed feeling of accomplishment for completing every single mile, and of sadness knowing that our trip was coming to an end.

Bike Tour Tuscany Italy

poolside at Il Borgo de Vescine

The afternoon was spent with many of us recovering with a poolside cat nap at the Il Borgo de Vescine.  After that we met in the early evening for our Chianti Classico tasting, just before our final dinner.  Dinner was as expected; one of the most fabulous meals of my life.  Davide and Angelo shared a special treat they put together for us just before our meal, and we even had an extra special treat from guest Kristi who wrote a song about the group and sang it to us after dinner!  The group said goodnight to fellow DuVine guests Bruce and Linda, who were celebrating their 40th wedding anniversary, and we sipped limoncello into the night!  We had some truly memorable laughs over the course of a short week, and I am so grateful to have been able to experience my second DuVine Adventure at this point in my life.  I can honestly say that I’ve never experienced anything quite like it, and I’m looking forward to making DuVine memories for years to come!

It’s nearly impossible to choose just one, so here are my highlights from the week based on category!

Bike: Conquering the 7K (felt like a lot longer than that!) climb into Montalcino, jumping in the pool at the Vecchia Oliviera in bike gear, and cheering on our fellow riders who were making their way up the final stretch of road into Montalcino from the back balcony… what a high!

Bike Tour Tuscany Italy

another climb conquered!

Eat: There wasn’t much of anything that I didn’t partake in foodwise (thank goodness for all of those miles biked!), but I think my favorite food item of the week was Dania’s pizza appetizer at La Chiusa.  Being a New Yorker, I know how to appreciate excellent pizza!  A shame Dania and Umberto don’t deliver to NYC…

Drink: I really enjoyed the mid-ride tasting on day 5 of biking when we stopped at Castelli di Brolio. I might not have biked in a straight line the rest of the way, but at least I made it to Chianti on my own two wheels!

Sleep: There wasn’t much sleep happening to be honest (why waste time sleeping when you are in this beautiful place?!), but waking up in Montalcino early enough to catch the sunrise before heading down to the Abbey of Sant’Antimo for a morning of Gregorian chanting was a pretty fantastic way to start the day.

DuVine Moment: Dancing in the street with my best friend and our group after dinner on our second night in Montefollonico, and then coming back to La Chiusi to drink limoncello with Umberto!

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July 15, 2010

Fiestas in Spain

Filed under: Active Travel, Bike, Camino de Santiago, Rioja, Spain — Tags: , , , , , , — Bike tour guru @ 4:29 pm

There is nothing in the US that quite compares to the festivals of Europe…the pageantry, the energy, the participation, the celebratory spirit, the frequency! Yes, it’s hard to travel through any European country without stumbling upon some sort of festival, festa or fiesta – and we’re talking every month of the year (if not weekly!)

Parade and festival in Spain

Whether religious or pagan, it needn’t matter…all are a cause for celebration – (and I might wager a guess to say that soccer matches also apply?) As I can only imagine the revelry that ensued after Spain’s Sunday win in South Africa.

However, Spain is no stranger to fiestas. From the moment I arrived in Madrid this past May, for a bike tour in Spain, I became instantly aware of how important and integral these events are to the cultural ethos and the vibe of the country as a whole.  Apparently, I had arrived during the San Isidro festival – the biggest fiesta in Madrid – and was unable to even be dropped off at my hotel due to the numerous street closures for the festival.  It was difficult enough for my driver to negotiate traffic on the ‘open’ roads since the streets themselves were flooded with people – from the locals, Madrileños, dressed in traditional gear who were headed for Plaza Mayor for the traditional dancing and open air concerts to the tourists who had come to witness the festivities, Madrid was alive with a melodious buzz. As I walked my way up the narrow streets toward Plaza del Carmen, I wondered if this was a typical day in the city? Granted, I was staying in the heart of the city (conveniently located close to the Gran Via, Playa Mayor and Puerto del Sol) but if this was a day in the life of Madrid, it was pretty crazy. (I now realize that it wasn’t just the San Isidro festival – on any given day, Madrid truly is a city abuzz and never sleeps – it just gets takes on another layer during fiesta time.)

San Isidro Festival in Madrid

I thought they were winding down for the night when I settled in for the evening around midnight (hoping to ward off jet lag) but was awoken in less than a hour by an incredible blast and I wondered if my hotel was being bombed! I ran to the window, opened the door to my balcony and stepped out to witness a spectacular array of fireworks. No, not the San Isidro festival…but rather one of the Madrid soccer teams had finally won a game that evening after an endless slump. Yes, the streets had come alive again…with joyous revels, fireworks displays and non-stop chanting and cheering. So much for avoiding jet lag! This continued into the wee hours of the morning and then came the cleaning crews… [and this is what amazed me most!] …when I retired for the evening, the streets were strewn with the myriad remnants of a city party and when I ‘awakened’ after breakfast that morning, there wasn’t a hint or trace that anything had transpired the night before. The streets had been washed clean, platforms and staging removed, litter cleared – all in a mere hour or two! Talk about industrious. They know how party…but they also clean up quite nicely!

Funnily enough, I spent that following week wending my way from Abalos back to Madrid on our Rioja bike tour only to find the city once again bustling beyond belief! This time with the championship Italy vs Germany soccer showcase showdown in the Madrid stadium. I don’t think I need to go into any more detail about the state of the city on that weekend…

What’s more interesting to imagine is that same scene fast forwarded to last Sunday…when their own winning team had taken the World Cup! Now that…I can’t even fathom! And from what I gather…like good Spaniards they stretch the fun and always start the celebrations earlier and end later!

Running of the bulls in Pedraza

Now I just need to return to Rioja this September for another round of fiestas and fun. Our September tour perfectly coincides with 2 festivals in Lerma (Patronales Romería and Fiesta de la Virgen de Manciles) as well as a milder, gentler running of the bulls in Pedraza.

What better way to really get a feel for the culture than to actually experience it through its festivals?

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May 28, 2010

Dede went to Rioja on a Bike Tour!

Filed under: Bike, European bike tours, Rioja, Spain, Staff Posts, Tours, Wine Tasting, staff stories — Tags: , , , , , , , — Bike tour guru @ 1:19 pm

 

Rioja

Rioja rocks!

Although, perhaps I should not divulge this secret (despite being DuVine Adventure’s Marketing Manager) …as I’d prefer to keep this region to myself. Yes, I just returned from a picture perfect week on a bike tour to Rioja Spain and can’t stop raving about how amazing this epic countryside is. Imagine the perfect cycling road…rolling green hills, brilliant azure sky, snow capped mountains in the distance, miles and miles of open road without a car [or anything else, really] in sight until you happen upon a medieval village with its castle rising above the landscape of a land frozen in time. And that’s just the cycling! Just wait until you taste the wine…

Let me just preface by saying that this was much more than just a pleasant surprise (as it was nothing like what I expected). I’m not sure why my imagined perception was so lack luster…but in this case, perception certainly was not reality…actually quite the antithesis! I was absolutely stunned by how amazing this area truly is.

Perhaps one of the most important features to highlight about Rioja is how stunning the landscape is – almost surreal with its vibrant hues of emerald and chartreuse wheat fields undulating in the breeze, virtually cloudless azure skies, ferrous-rich red clay soil and snow white capped mountains rising above the empty asphalt roads. This, I wasn’t expecting….maybe Tuscany or Sicily…but not Spain, right?

Epic roads

From day one, as we drove out from the urban expanse of Madrid and headed into the countryside, the landscape was ever changing – the only constant was a range of mountains (and although different ranges – a ubiquitous presence nonetheless) – and even those varied in the amount of snow covering their peaks. I have to admit, if you have to endure a long road trip in the van…it definitely helps to have scenic vistas to distract you! Actually, the ride isn’t that bad (and it is the longest of the trip so you get it over with in the beginning) – 3 hours from Madrid to Abalos. And, as aforementioned,  not only is the scenery captivating…but there is also plenty of time to catch a nap if you have arrived that day like our family from California…or are still suffering a bit of jet lag from your hop across the pond.

Van 1 and van 2 (as they familiarly became labeled) caravanned along the highway…we stopped midway along the route for a quick coffee and a chance to finally meet our fellow travelers. 2 sets of friends from Canada, a family from California, and me – lucky 13! Well, add to that our tag team of guides: Pablo, Marcus and Oliver…and you had the makings for what became an incredibly fun and exciting adventure! We soon began realize that we had a true comic genius along who was truly entertaining and kept us laughing daily. I can’t thank Marius enough for providing a wonderful sense of comic relief and for being such a pleasant traveling companion. It certainly helped to have some partners in crime along. Yes, in addition to practicing my lapsed Spanish, I was introduced to a whole new vocabulary throughout the week.

Marius on the road

As you can surmise… what a week it became! Great company, epic riding, delicious Rioja wines and some of the best guides by our side, fulfilling our every need – what more could you ask for?

It all began in Abalos…where we arrived at our hotel, had time for a quick change and then headed out for our first foray on the roads of Rioja. Honestly, I don’t think we encountered a single car on that ride as we cycled astride along the empty country roads. There was just plenty of rolling terrain and a steep climb back into town for a well earned cocktail outside on the patio of the hotel, where we were bathed in sunshine. Plates of Manchego cheese, selected hams, olives, etc…and of course…bottles of their own vino tinto from the vineyard.

And like a fine wine, our days just kept improving with time…

Every day became a new adventure as we traversed the remote and romantic countryside – climbing and descending the rolling green hills. The general consensus (and long-standing joke) was that Pablo had a very unique interpretation of what a ‘flat’ road consisted of…apparently there are some really flat hills in Spain?! Lots of laughter filled the days as friendships were forged both on the road and over glasses of vino and plates of tapas.

Castle view

Need we forget, it is not all about these perfect cycling roads. The land itself is rich in history…and the landscape is dotted everywhere with remnants of the past. From medieval castles looming high above the surrounding valleys, walled cities that remain seemingly untouched by time, to the ever-present ancient architectural marvels – aqueducts, monasteries, abbeys and gothic cathedrals along the way – this is a fascinating place. You truly feel as if you have been transported back to antiquity…a time traveler meandering through a lost world…becoming part of that history.

Be it these man-made structures or natural formations…beauty abounds. Just take a walk through the Yecla Gorge or hike down to see the Hoces de rio Duraton Natural Park. (I’m sorry, have I mentioned how impressive the landscape is?) Honestly…I think that you, too, will share my sentiment and find that whatever you may be imagining…really isn’t as stunning as is the Rioja reality.

Oh, and did I mention the wine? Hmmm…maybe that’s one of the secrets I should keep to myself?

Muse Dinastai Vivanco

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March 5, 2010

Rioja by bike

Filed under: Bike, European bike tours, Rioja, Spain, Tours — Tags: , , , , , , — Bike tour guru @ 11:59 am

Laguardia, Tapas and Burgos – oh my!

The wines of Rioja

We’re off to see Rioja, the inspiring region in Spain. Follow the banks of the Ebro and Duero rivers and explore a land that embodies a rich medieval past, a deep connection to the land, endless vineyards, fortressed stone villages, vintage cellars, stalwart castles and monastic wineries. When even its monks are producing some of the world’s finest wines, you know that there must be something wonderful in this Spanish soil!

It is no wonder that the Rioja is Spain’s most celebrated wine region…and that the name itself is almost synonymous with Spanish red wine. But wine  is not the only “claim to fame” of this region – unforgettable Spanish cuisine, an epic countryside and a fascinating medieval history await.

Cycling in Rioja

If you were to ask Pablo, our Spanish tour guide, what is so special about Rioja…you should be prepared for a extended discourse.  It’s a good thing you’ll have 6 days to enjoy his insights on our Rioja bike tour. From your 1st stop along the way in Burgos, the medieval Castilian town founded in 884 to see the most astounding Gothic cathedrals to your visit to a 15th century vineyard where you can kick off your shoes and participate in wine production the traditional way, Pablo will make sure your Rioja experience is a truly unique adventure.

You will also have plenty of time to sample tapas in Laguardia, relax a for a luxurious spa treatment in Marques de Riscal, visit Santa Domingo de Silos (the monastery that gave Gregorian chanting international renown), and picnic at the the castle of Peñaranda surrounded by the gorgeous landscape of the Yecla Gorge.

the spa at Marques de Riscal

Oh, and if  you haven’t noticed, Spanish wines are becoming increasingly popular on menus throughout the country…here’s your chance to get a leg up on the competition.  Go directly to the source for inspiration and education so that upon returning home,  you can make the best selections, impress your fellow diners, and share your knowledge with others about these great Spanish wines.

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July 30, 2009

Bike Spain on a Rioja Cycling Tour

Filed under: Bike, Rioja — Bike tour guru @ 3:23 pm

Are you still wishing the Tour de France hadn’t ended this past Sunday? Can’t wait another whole year to get your ‘fix’ of epic bike races? You needn’t worry – the outlook isn’t as dire as you may think.

Although it doesn’t carry the same prestige value as the TDF, the Vuelta de Espana rates as one of the big 3 ‘Grand Tours’  in the cycling world. Beginning this August 29th, the 3 week race will start in  Assen, Holland and after Stage 5, head to Spain  and traverse the country before ending in Madrid.

I have a feeling that Versus will not be offering daily live coverage, but I’m sure there will be highlights and some weekly coverage of the race. That allots you plenty of time to get out on your own bike and start logging those miles for your own bike tour of Spain!

 Our bike tour of Rioja begins this September 6th…why not plan a trip to coincide with the Vuelta? Bike your way through Rioja and then head out to catch some live Vuelta coverage of your own!

May 19, 2009

Bike.eat.drink…run with bulls

Filed under: European bike tours, Rioja, Spain — Tags: , , — Bike tour guru @ 3:21 pm

runwithbullsjpg

Have you ever wanted to tempt fate and partake in this exciting tradition of encierro? – or perhaps merely catch a glimpse of the action while tucked away safely on the ’sidelines’? Forget the craziness of Pamplona and join us in Rioja this September and experience this traditional practice as a true local – in a small scale, small town way.

It just so happens that our tour coincides with the town of Pedraza’s fiesta which honors its patron – the Virgin of Carrascal. Continuing a tradition that has been in existence since 1550, this beautiful old town square is turned into a ‘plaza de toros’ – where the streets are blocked off and the the running of the bulls begins.

Here’s your chance to bike and run…so why not add a little fun to that run?

Raise that glass of Rioja, fuel up on tapas and begin training for your DuVine duathlon this September in Spain.

pedrazajpg1

May 8, 2009

Rioja Spain Bike Trip

Filed under: Bike, Rioja, testimonials — Tags: , , — Bike tour guru @ 4:01 pm

“We had a wonderful time with DuVine in Spain. It’s so nice of Andy to hire a guide that looks like a young Richard Gere! I have to admit that I spent a little time in the van, but I didn’t feel so bad with Marcus behind the wheel. Also, Pablo was such a great host. His pride in his country and his excitement in showing and sharing it with us was very evident. He’s a sweet guy! This was our third bike trip with DuVine. We’ve loved each one. It’s so nice to travel and be treated as a friend (not a tourist) everywhere we go. Also, the accommodations and restaurants are so much better than anything we would choose on our own.”

Thumbs up again! Give our regards to Andy.

Sincerely, Barbara Jobin

April 27, 2009

Rioja Spain Cycling Tour

Filed under: Bike, Rioja, Spain — Tags: , , — Bike tour guru @ 8:41 am
Rioja DuVine Day one

Rioja DuVine Day one

This bicycle trip in Rioja Spain goes round one of the most beautiful landscapes of Spain. We start by the river Ebro and head for the river Duero, both places hold two of the best wines in the world: “Rioja and Ribera de Duero”. You´ll be put up in the best accomodation facilities, charming hotels and top class lodges. We’ll drive in our vans as far as reaching the starting points of the most important and interesting areas.