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November 16, 2011

A Bicycle Tour in Umbria with Something for Everyone

Deborah has been on tours to six different destinations with DuVine Adventures including, bike tours in Europe and bike tours in South America and enjoyed all of them. A leisure cyclist who travels more for the cultural experience and beautiful scenery, she understands that some people may be a bit nervous about going on anything other than an Easy rated tour. After her recent bicycle trip to Umbria, Deborah shared her thoughts to dispel the nervousness of people like her who just want to enjoy the experience in relaxation.

As a non-cyclist I was unsure of what to expect heading on a week-long cycling vacation. What I found with DuVine’s bike tour in Umbria was complete flexibility and options for all ability levels.  Eating, drinking, and exploring the local cultures are as much what the week is about as the cycling, which was designed to enjoy the country-side on quiet roads.  With this bike, eat, drink sleep philosophy it is possible to enjoy any DuVine destination, though unless you don’t plan to bike at all, I would generally start by choosing a tour to match my cycling ability. There are plenty to choose from: Loire, Bordeaux and Portugal, for example, are all Easy rated tours.  Umbria, while rated Moderate,  is a large valley making the cycling not as difficult as I’d expected.  Many of the towns are perched on the sides of the valley, making for a beautiful setting, and adding some hills to each ride. For those with partners who like an extra challenge there is a great long ride on the last day, however the majority of the cycling was in the valley and very manageable.

Bike Tour Umbria

Overlooking the Valley

I planned to cycle as much as I could and prepared by going to spin classes and getting out on a bike for a few weekends before the tour. There really is nothing like actually getting on a bike to get used to balance and learning to change gears going up and down hills.  While DuVine includes the choice of either a hybrid or road bike, I would not take the road bike with its thinner tires and bent over handle bars unless you are used to this style of cycling, they are designed for the experienced cyclist and speed.  The hybrid bikes we had were top of the line with 21 gears and very comfortable memory foam seats.  We had a few novice cyclists in my group and a number who had requested the extra gel seats, but most agreed that the memory foam made for better butt positioning and ultimate comfort.  Pedal options are given in advance, most novice cyclists pick the flat pedal, the other choice is a loose toe cage option to slip your foot into.  The more experienced cyclists will generally bring their own clip-on shoes and pedals, which the guides will fit for them.

Bike Tour Umbria

Beautiful Sunrise in Umbria

Before getting on the bikes our guides gave us each fittings to ensure the correct seat height, helmet adjustment, etc.  All of the equipment is included.  The DuVine cycle jerseys were great with their back pockets to keep a small camera or store your mobile phone (in case of emergencies).  I did find a jacket and gloves were useful for early morning starts in the cooler Autumn weather.  Each rider also has a bike bag on the front of the bicycle, which is a good size for holding all the little things you might need during the day such as a wallet or sunscreen. They also equipped with the route map for those who want to know where they are or wish to cycle ahead, and can even be taken off the bikes and used as a bag while touring.  If you think you’ll spend more time off the bike a small back pack with extra items or a clothing change can be put in the in van, which is always close at hand.

Bike Tour Umbria

Enjoying the Ride in the Valley

The guides gave us a clear safety talk before we started, explaining how to ride in traffic with Italian drivers. They actually are  very good at sharing the road with cyclists.  They explained how to take the down-hills and described the route ahead.  It was very reassuring having the guides on-hand at all times, one on a bike and one in the van, letting us know where to make the next turn and taking photos as we cycled, allowing us to really enjoy the scenery.  They were there to handle anything from the occasional flat tire, to gear change tips, to an extra push up a hill.  And the van was always nearby for those who wanted a break.

Days are designed with regular stops, giving guests plenty of non-cyclist options.  Day One starts with an introductory ride.  In Umbria you head up to Trevi, a quaint Medieval town on the side of the hill, for a typical leisurely Italian lunch, our group all transferred up as the annual Celery festival was in full swing, most groups cycle up but the van is always there for those who don’t want to start the week with a climb, and it was downhill after lunch.

Italians love their food and this tour gives guests plenty of opportunities to enjoy it as well.  Menus typically have multiple courses.  Umbrian’s eat an unsalted bread, which they dip in their fresh tasty olive oil… heavenly.  Italian meals usually start with an antipasto course, generally a mix of various meats and some cheeses, prosciutto, capocollo, salami etc.  Their Primo course is generally pasta, risotto or maybe pizza.  The Secondo will then be meat or fish, though as Umbria is land bound the latter was not generally one of the options selected for us.  If you order from a menu note that the Contorno or vegetable/salad side dish is usually served separately rather than with the meat.  The Dolce or dessert would be a cake, maybe a tiramisu, or zabaglione style dish, of course you can always do as the locals and head out for a gelato with friends.  We generally had a set menu, which chefs prefer, so dietary restrictions should be noted in advance.  In Italy the meal ends with a short espresso, or caffé corretto with a shot of grappa, or for a delicious digestif try limoncello.  Know that in Italy if you want the watery style coffee that is drunk in North America you have to ask for caffé Americano, while cappuccino and caffe latte are only drunk at breakfast.  My favourite is the macchiato, an espresso stained with a spoonful of frothed milk.  Buon appetito!

For those that know they don’t want to spend too much time on the bike, Umbria is filled with little towns to explore and plenty of off bike activities.  Day Two, for example, consisted of an easy ride to Montefalco where we took an olive oil tasting in the oldest establishment in town. Olivio & Daniela, who make their own oils, were very generous and informative.  We were there in mid-October and they had just picked and pressed their olives so the oil was still green and so fresh. All oils become yellow with age regardless of how they are stored – heat is the worst thing for oils, they are best stored in a cool dark place.  It was interesting to taste the various blends, similar in many ways to a wine tasting.  From there we took another short cycle to the Antonelli winery, where we were taken on a tour of its production facilities followed by a lunch with wine parings. Again, the host was very informative, explaining each wine and why it had been served with each course.  After lunch we were given cycling choices, an easy ride, transfer, or a more challenging route via another picturesque hilltop village.  There’s always an option for everyone.

Bike Tour Umbria

Interior of a Cathedral

Day Three included a visit to the Gothic city of Assisi. The pace was again easy in the valley.  Our ride took us to Santa Maria degli Angeli, which houses the tiny church built by St. Francis, and known as the Porziuncula. It was a calming and serene experience.  There was usually some traffic entering/exiting the main towns but most of the riding was on small quiet roads.  We transferred up to Assisi to avoid the traffic, and were given the choice of a tour or free time to explore at leisure. The Basilica is amazing and there was so much to see in the town.  Our fourth day included a cooking class, one of the highlights of the tour, with Tres Vaselle’s amazing chef Domenico. He showed us local secrets such as how to make his amazing pasta.. we learned some great dinner party tricks too.  Our lunch that followed included the results of our labour.  Many took the afternoon off at Tres Vaselle to enjoy the hotel facilities, spa, sauna and massages, while there was also the option to visit Deruta and a local pottery factory.  Orvieto was the highlight of Day Five, and while it was a big ride the van was at our call the entire way.  Our group included a mix of abilities and some decided they would rather spend the full day in Orvieto and took an early transfer.  For a non-cyclist this can be done at any time, distances in Umbria are not that far and a taxi can easily be arranged for you if you choose to take an excursion on your own.  Orvieto has a stunning Duomo in its town square, the cathedral dates from 1290 and the black and white marble stripping of its main body and stunning mosaic façade is impressive.  If you spend the day there you’ll find plenty to do with all the churches, museums and many alleys of shops, or if you have the extra time take the opportunity to tour the underground catacombs.

Our hotels throughout the trip were wonderful with lots of character. It was a joy to sit down with new friends at the end of each day for an aperitif and relax with great company.  Villa Zuccari was charming with painted walls and gorgeous items displayed everywhere. The owner was lovely and made scrumptious breakfast cakes, she really treated us as her guests.  L’Orto Degli Angeli was as old as the Roman town it was located in; Bevagna a charming town.  The hotel is comprised of two parts connected with a bridge into a central garden, a wonderful place to sit for a drink during balmy summer months.  The hotel is owned & lived in by a noble family and is really very special, while dinner the first night is in part of the old Roman Amphitheater, a gorgeous setting with lots of atmosphere.  Tres Vaselle in Torgiano offers great relaxation towards the end of the week with its 5 star facilities, the interior was the more modern of the properties that we stayed at, giving us variety throughout the week.  Many took advantage of the spa, while the final wine tasting in their cellar was most prestigious.

Umbria has something for everyone, for every level of cycling.  You can choose to simply explore in your own time, soaking up the history, art and culture of the region, or take advantage of the extra rides that are always offered.  A bit of biking justifies all the eating and drinking!  It’s your adventure to enjoy – mine was simply divine!

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May 24, 2011

European Bike Tours – Notes from the Road

As our guides and guests have pedaled through the early spring on our European Bike Tours we have captured those unique memories in our Notes from the Road photos and updates.  Check out these snippets and link through to all of the great pictures and comments.

bike tour tuscany italy

A Tuscan field of dreams

Bike Tour in Tuscany Italy – Tom and David, created and hosted a private Tuscan bike tour for three great couples. They turned the classic Tuscany bicycle tour on its head and the results were incredible.  The early spring colors of Tuscany were vibrant yellows and greens and the riding and dining were classic DuVine.

bike tour sicily italy

The Sicilian countryside

Bike Tour in Sicily Italy – Our first Sicily tour of the year kicked off to a great start! And, according to Andy, who stopped by to join the guests “we feel like the only tourists around for hundreds of miles”! Aside from encounters with the locals and, of course, a major Sicilian traffic jam (aka a flock of sheep), they enjoyed the empty roads up and down the valleys around Vizzini and experienced a true taste of Sicily – from the delicious local fare (soufflé of eggplant with Modica chocolate and spicy gorgonzola) to the warm hospitality of the locals (the town priest inviting the guests into his home for limoncello ). Yes, Sicily is far from the maddening crowd…pretty much even Blackberry-free!

umbria italy bike tour

Apres Velo in Bevagna

Bike Tour in Umbria Italy – The first Umbria bicycle tour of the season provided guides David and Guido and our guests with July-like temperatures in the 80’s. The tour introduced guests to friends old and new, from Gherardo, the owner of one of our favorite haunts in Trevi, to random women on the street in Trevi who insist on dancing with Adam. We also had a chance in Assisi to explore Saint Francis’ favorite spots surrounding the town, and see first-hand the frescos of Giotto and Cimabue that lead to the Italian renaissance in art.

Bike Tour in the Loire Valley France – Team Tommy as they have come to be known were pre-tripped the Loire Valley

bike tour loire valley france

Tommy in the corn

bike tour and had a great time: visiting old friends at Château de Cheverny, losing the van keys in a corn field (found them eventually) and eating all the asparagus they could find! The Loire Valley bike tour is going to be great this year and the guides have certainly gotten all mapped out.

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December 21, 2010

Andy’s Top 10 Hotels of 2010

Welcome to our third installment in the DuVine Adventures Top 10 for 2010.  Our first two Top 10’s were Top 10 Bike Rides and Top 10 wines and now we bring you our Top 10 Hotels for 2010.

“SLEEP” is an equal and integral part of the DuVine equation for luxury bicycle tours and adventure travel…so when it comes to our choice of hotels, we select not only the “must-see” places of interest, but also properties that provide a real sense of local charm. Remember…DuVine style is all about the experience…be it on the bike, while dining, sampling the local potables, or relaxing for the evening. Hence, I take great care when deciding which properties measure up our standards. And although each may be special in its own right…I’d like to share where a few of my favorites places to stay have been this year.
I guess you could call these my top 10 hotels of the year…(in no particular order of preference…)

Orto degli Angeli

Orto degli Angeli in Umbria
Imagine lying back in bed after a wonderful day cycling through the Sagrantino vineyards and a delicious dinner in a restaurant located in the remains of a Roman amphitheater and looking up to see an original Frescoe painted on the ceiling above you? That’s right…our ancient villa, Orto degli Angeli, with the original noble family still in residence, is a museum in itself. This historic hotel where Francesco Antonini dei Conti Angeli Nieri Mongalli’s family has lived since 1788 integrates architectural elements and original building materials from the ancient world and overlooks the ruins of an ancient Roman theatre and temple. A vaulted underground room, which was a part of the two thousand year old theatre, serves as the dining room of the restaurant, creating an unforgettable dining experience. You will sleep like royalty in this unique property.  You will stay here on our bicycle tour in Umbria, Italy.

Flocon de Sel

Flocon de Sel in Megeve, France
What can I say? When I first read the mission statement from the owners of this hotel – “to stay unique, to give to our guests the possibility to make the most of the tranquility of the place, with luxury services offered in a convivial atmosphere, without ostentation and at the same time help with exploring the landscape, this unique environment which is ours” – I knew this place would be DuVine! The service is flawless, the location – set in the mountain pastures with commanding views of the valley below – is incredibly intimate and the 2 star rated Michelin restaurant definitely put this on the top 10 list! This is available on our bicycle tours in the Alps.

Villa Beccaris in Piedmont
What makes a hotel special? Is it the personal connections made with the staff, the incredible views out your window, the linens, the impeccable and attentive service, the amount of luxury services offered? Or is it a just a feeling you get when you enter a room? Perhaps sometimes that is all it takes! When you walk into the limonaia , the glassed-in Belle Epoque breakfast room with views over Barolo vineyards at Villa Beccaris, you will understand why this hotel ranks on the list! You will stay here on our bicycle tour in Umbria, Italy. You will stay here on our bicycle tour in Piedmont, Italy.

Hotel Adriana

Hotel Adriana in Hvar
Not only is it Croatia’s first and only member of The Leading Small Hotels of the World… but the views from the Adriana  – a panorama that includes the Cathedral, the Arsenal, the Venetian piazza, the yacht harbor and the bay all in one – are absolutely stunning! Talk about an island paradise… and the Top bar is the place to be! Location, location, location. Oh…and a little bit of St. Tropez and Ibiza all in one. You will stay here on our bicycle tour in Croatia.

 

Bastide de Gordes in Provence
Talk about the perfect perch! Bastide de Gordes sits high above the Luberon valley offering some absolutely gorgeous views. What better way to spend an afternoon post-ride than lounging by the pool admiring the scenery? or better yet…at the world-famous Spa Sisley located on the property? Yes, definitely a must on the list. You will stay here on our bicycle tour in Provence, France.

Bastide de Gordes

Relais San Maurizio in Piedmont
There is no place that makes you feel as if you are on top of the world [literally and figuratively] like the San Maurizio! Surrounded by the Langhe hills with panoramic vineyards views, it is the perfect vantage point for a journey of the colors, fragrances and flavors of Piedmont. Originally a 17th century monastery, the property has been transformed into a stunning and discreet resort…one that gives new meaning the word exclusivity! Oh, and did I mention the vinotherapy spa Caudalie? It is epic zen - italiano style! You will stay here on our bicycle tour in Piedmont, Italy.

La Chiusa

 La Chiusa in Tuscany
This charming little relais and restaurant holds a very special place in our hearts. La Chiusa is the product of the lifelong work of two of our dear friends, Dania and Umberto. It was Umberto’s vision that transformed his family’s medieval olive mill into a stunning luxury hotel. In many of the hotel’s fifteen rooms, you can find old millstones and other reminders of the building’s agricultural past.  Umberto is a true Tuscan man and makes sure his guests get anything they want. Every afternoon you can find him overseeing his splendid staff from his table under the pergola where he will be happy to share a bottle of prosecco, fresh grapes from his vineyards, and the story of how he brought running water to the town.Dania is a world-renowned Tuscan chef and the Ristorante La Chiusa, where we eat on the first night of the tour, is her baby. She has devoted a lifetime to preserving traditional Tuscan cuisine, using only the freshest seasonal ingredients and age- old methods. Her meals are unforgettable. She always makes a point of coming to our table after the meal and giving us a tour of the kitchen or autographing copies of her cookbook. There is also an extraordinary selection of local wines. You will stay here on our bicycle tour in Tuscany, Italy.

Chalet Royalp

Chalet Royalp in Villars
Imagine being nestled in at your 1,300 ft ‘”base camp” of Villars sur Ollon in the heart of the Vaud Alps looking out from your private balcony at the idyllic setting that spans in front of you – featuring a spectacular panorama extending from Lake Geneva to Mont Blanc.  This charming chalet is the perfect ski “lodge” …the perfect combination of a typical mountain lodge atmosphere with the exquisite elegance of an exclusive high end resort. Oh, and it’s also the first ski-in and ski-out hotel in the Vaudauoise Alpes – offering direct access to the ski resort. You will stay here on our ski trip in the Alps.

Iguana Crossing on Isabella Island, Galapagos
Staying here is like escaping to your own private island – scarcely populated except for the flora and incredible variety of fauna to be found – including, of course, the ubiquitous marine iguanas. Located in between the pristine white sand beaches with their emerald green water and directly behind a wildlife-filled lagoon, this spot couldn’t be more special. Even better, as  you relax in your room, you can listen to the soothing sound of surf and watch the volcano beyond the wetlands come alive.  Yes, a true island getaway awaits you at Iguana Crossing! This hotel is available on our adventure travel Galapagos Islands tour.

Beach at Iguana Crossing

Taybet Zaman in Petra, Jordan
Step back in time, but not in luxury at this uniquely modern interpretation of 19th century Jordan – complete with an exotic dash of Arab indulgence. As you walk through the village and its ancient stone structures, you feel transported back to the old village, complete with the scents and sounds of the market…a very sensory experience. Staying at Taybet Zama, with its unique blend of modern elegance and rustic charm, is unlike any other typical hotel stay…especially when you consider that just outside your window is a view unlike any other…one of the modern wonders of the world, Petra. You will stay here on our adventure travel tour in Jordan.

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February 16, 2010

How we created the Umbria Bike Tour

Filed under: Italy, Umbria — Bike tour guru @ 10:10 am

On the road to Montefalco

After spending a few days in Tuscany – I was mentally prepared to drive South to begin creating our new  Umbria Bike Tour.

I had no expectations – good or bad. In my mind, the only thing I wondered was whether it was just going to be another Tuscany? I had heard it was Tuscany…only flat and all green… but would the food be as good?…the wines?

The further I got away from Tuscany, the closer I felt ‘at home’. Do not get me wrong – I LOVE TUSCANY – it is heaven, a picture perfect region with all the ingredients for an amazing vacation and experience. I love my Tuscany, but Umbria was truly a home away from home.

One thing I can say is that Umbria has some of the best food in Italy that I have ever eaten – hands down. From dipping fresh bread in the olive oil, to the fresh fruits, vegetables and meats – it was out of this world! [or perhaps I should just say – real Umbrian]

Maybe it was the timing…the light…the sun…or whatever but Umbria hit me right in the heart – something magical happened. It was a very visceral reaction. Umbria has everything I like: it is real – not overly-hyped or touristy – and everywhere you go, you encounter the locals (both young and old) hanging out in town centers talking shop. Umbria is a place that makes you feel as if time travel were possible – returning to a time where you can ride through vineyards, olive groves and medieval hill towns that time forgot and tourism has hardly touched.

Biking between the villages

Honestly, there isn’t a tourist in sight…just miles of rolling hills and very old villages which seem much older than Tuscany. Add to that, locals who are so warm and welcoming, incredible food and [I must confess] outstanding wines!

I knew that I wanted to start the trip from the gorgeous hill town of Trevi and bicycle all the way to Assisi, weaving through the small roads and villages, tasting wines and learning about culture and history. My intimate experience continued as I cycled through the legendary towns and untouched villages of Spello, Montefalco, Deruta, Torgiano and Bevagna.

I tasted some of the best wines and olive oils around the village of Montefalco, met such gentle sweet people throughout the various towns, and the hotels were all over the top.

What struck me most about Umbria was how old each village was – much older than Tuscany. But I was also struck by how hard the earthquake had hit Assisi. Imagine a village built hundreds of years ago – completely unprepared and certainly not designed to sustain the kind of structural damages that tremors can cause. To this day there is still a great deal of rebuilding happening, as evidenced by the cranes.

The amazing part of this trip is that in Assisi, you have the opportunity to view all of the tremendous art and architecture created in homage to St. Francis, the town’s most famous native son – including works by some of the greatest artists of the Early Renaissance, like Giotto, Cimabue and Simone Martini.

Needless to say, it was a magical trip to create because it all fit on the canvas and flowed naturally from wine villages, through small market towns, to the historical site of Assissi. I think this is the perfect blend for our travelers – and the best way to experience the real deal of Umbria, like a local – not a tourist! Sometimes in the business things click, and they really did for me while creating this trip in Umbria.

I highly recommend this DuVine bike trip to anyone on my list – Umbria is a must and the cycling roads are epic.

Last but not least, I have to mention the hotels – WOW were they romantic! Gorgeous…with perfect locations and definitely something to remember. Actually, they are some of the best DuVine hotels: starting with Villa Zuccari.

This large villa is surrounded by the vineyards of Montefalco and has been the Zuccari family’s residence since the end of the 16th century. The current owner, Paolo Zuccari, has transformed it into a Relais de Charme. The pool is gorgeous and perfect after a day of cycling. And a short walk brings you to the tiny village and where you can speak with locals on the town bench.

L’Orto degli Angeli is absolutely amazing. It is situated in the picturesque walled village of Bevagna, in the heart of Umbria. This beautifully restored historic residence is comprised of two ancient dwellings: Palazzo Alberti and Palazzo Andreozzi which are connected by a hanging garden. The restaurant is in the ruins of an ancient Roman theatre and temple. The vaulted underground room, which was a part of the two thousand year old theatre, serves as the dining room of the restaurant – creating an unforgettable dining experience.

Le Tre Vaselle, a 5 star hotel, is a 17th century building that rises within the medieval walls of Torgiano, a peaceful village set in the heart of the Umbrian countryside. In fact, hotel founder, Giorgio Lungarotti is a legend in Italy and in the wine-industry world-wide for creating the DOCG Rubesco wine here in the 1970’s. The dinner was one of the best dinners I have ever had in Italy!

I know that I may be partial [having created the tour myself] – but I truly believe this to be a not-to-be-missed DuVine bike tour!

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