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February 21, 2011

The Wines of Bordeaux

Filed under: Bike, Bordeaux, France, Wine Tasting — Tags: , , , , , , , — Bike tour guru @ 3:13 pm

It doesn’t matter where you are, or where you’re from, when the name “Bordeaux” is uttered, you immediately think of wine. Of course at DuVine we also think of bicycle tours in Bordeaux.  This region, graced by phenomenal soils and an oceanic climate, is all about our favorite beverage. Almost everyone thinks immediately of red wines but the region also produces large quantities of white.

A Tasting in Bordeaux

The reds are beautiful, luscious, rich and complex with black fruit flavors. The dry whites highlight Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon & Muscadelle grape varieties which, when blended, create light, fruity and crisp wines. And then there is the Botrytis Cinerea (a.k.a. Noble Rot) infected grapes which produce the fabulous sweet wine bottled as Sauternes.

Blessed by Bacchus, the region boasts, arguably, the most famous wines in the world: Château Lafite Rothschild, Château Mouton Rothschild, Château Margaux, Château Petrus, Château Cheval Blanc, Château d’Yquem.

Chateau Margaux

Recently, it appears as though the wine keeps getting better. The 2009 vintage has been hailed as the “vintage of the century.” Bottles from both, 2000 and 2005, have also received extremely high scores from wine critics throughout the world. Although not receiving as much press as the aforementioned years, wonderful wines have been made in 2006, as well as in the difficult years of 2003 and 2007.

Over the past year, DuVine guests have had the privilege of tasting exquisite wines from small, local producers as well as from large famous Châteaux. Listing all of the wines would be nearly impossible but there are many that stand out.

Chateau Figeac

Highlighted wines:
2000 Château Angelus
2003 Château Gazin
1996 Château Palmer
1985, 2003, 2005 Couvent des Jacobins
1975 Petit Cheval
2000, 2003 Château Figeac
2000, 2004 Château Lynch-Bages
2004, 2009 (barrel sample) Rauzan-Ségla
1978 Château Kirwan

What makes this Bordeaux wine tour special isn’t just the quality of wine, but the people that we meet at the vineyards and Châteaux. By beginning the tour with smaller producers, we are able to get personalized visits and exclusive behind-the-scenes tours of the winemaking facilities.

Robert, the owner of Le Moulin de Moustelat, is very proud of his quaint operation. He makes a very traditional Claret, a Bordeaux style rosé, not sweet, slightly tannic – an excellent summer wine. He performs lots of vineyard work for his neighbors as well. Recently, he displayed his machine harvesters to a group of DuVine guests, providing detailed explanations of the functioning of these revolutionary machines.

Up the road, Wilfrid & Jackie have a stunning château where they produce acclaimed red wines, some aged in American oak barrels, as well as a delicate Sauvignon Blanc. Their passion for the region, for farming and for wine is incredibly contagious. We like to start the visit of Château Carbonneau in the fields, amongst the vines. Here we learn the techniques of vineyard management, grape selection and winemaking. We then finish our visit in the dinning room with a delightful home cooked meal. If you travel to Bordeaux during the harvest season, Wilfrid will gladly offer a taste from his fermentation vats or grapes fresh off the vines.

Wilfrid giving a tour at Chateau Carbonneau

Even in famed Saint Emilion we are able to get an “all-access pass” to the wineries. At DuVine we prefer to feature family owned estates – Châteaux where the owners are eager to share their knowledge with visitors. At Château Guadet, Guy-Petrus Lignac offers a visit of his family’s cave, carved in the limestone bedrock below. At Château Figeac, one of the few Premier Grand Cru Classé of Saint Emilion, a DuVine tour was able to meet Thierry Manoncourt, a legendary figure in the Bordeaux winemaking world, before he passed away this summer. Interestingly enough, he was showing off his collection of American wines, extremely proud of his friendship with Robert Mondavi.

And, as luck may have it, 2010 also featured a welcome by Jean-Charles Cazes who recently took over the helm, from his father, Jean-Michel, of Château Lynch-Bages. As a side note, Cordeillan-Bages, a luxury hotel that will be featured on the final night of our DuVine Bordeaux bicycle tour is right next door to the historic wine estate.

With inside knowledge of the region and connections to winemakers, DuVine Adventures is the ultimate way to travel in Bordeaux. We have great new bikes for the 2011 season, beautiful cycling routes and guides that are willing to go the extra mile to make your vacation as relaxing as possible.

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February 17, 2011

DuVine Adventures – Blind Wine Tasting

Filed under: Bordeaux, France, Italy, Piedmont, Video Blog, Wine Tasting — Tags: , , , , , — Bike tour guru @ 5:12 pm

In the depths of winter and with our European bicycle tour guides in the Boston office, what is our favorite thing to do?

Blind wine tasting of course!

So, how does this work? Well, Andy Levine, DuVine’s founder gave Tom Coppock, Italian Tour Manager and Tommy Pace, French Tour Guide a $40 budget and asked them to go out and find the best wine from the regions that we travel on our bicycle tours in France and bicycle tours in Italy and bring them in for a tasting.

Blind tastings are always a lot of fun and consist of lots of interesting terminology like – funky, earthy and mellow, all great wine terms and the favorite “trust the nose!”.

The two wines that were purchased were:

  • 2001 Chateau Barde-Haut, St. Emilion, Bordeaux, France
  • 2006 Bianco Aldo, Barbaresco, Piemonte, Italy

Both of these wines come from the regions that we run our European bicycle tours and in fact Tommy has ridden by the exact vines that produce the Chateau Barde-Haut.  So, the big question was could Andy correctly guess the wine’s country and region?

You’ll have to watch the video to see what happened.

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February 11, 2011

Bring on the Bubbly: A bike tour in Champagne

Filed under: Bike, Champagne, France, Wine Tasting — Tags: , , , , , , , , , , — Bike tour guru @ 12:00 pm

Everybody knows Champagne – the famous bubbly wine from France. It is the beverage of luxury, the drink of celebration and the nectar of the Kings. DuVine is excited to be offering a bicycle tour in Champagne in 2011. With amazing history and the best sparkling wine in the world, it is the ideal region for your next cycling vacation.

The famous bubbly from France...

As promised to his wife Clotilde, Clovis, the first King of France, converted to Catholicism after victory over Germanic tribes at Tolbiac. This conversion to the Christian faith took place with an historic baptism in the city of Reims, capital of the Champagne region. To honor Clovis, Reims became the coronation site for the French Kings, which has forever increased the cultural richness of the region. Today historical monuments offer windows into the past: a roman arch, an 11th century basilica, a immense cathedral & the 17th century Hôtel de ville.

Over the course of your DuVine Champagne bike tour, we will ride down quiet roads past pastures, through forests and amongst the vines. The warmth of the French countryside and its agricultural history are on display. Rolling hillsides covered in grape production will constantly remind you that this region is all about the world’s most famous sparkling wine – Champagne.

The rolling countryside of Champagne

Although Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier are all used in making the wine, the real hero of Champagne is the process in which it is made. With complex aging and secondary bottle fermentation, the sparkles in Champagne are produced thanks to refined techniques and large amounts of knowledge. The famous monk, Dom Perignon, is wrongly credited with inventing Champagne. In fact, most of his work as the cellar master at a Benedictine Abbey was in preventing this imperfection. He also worked hard to blend grape varietals to improve flavors and consistency in the regional wine; for this hard work, and for improving winemaking in France, he is famous.

Between Epernay and Reims, you’ll have the opportunity to visit a diversity of Champagne houses. Although Champagne is rich with famous estates like Pommery, Veuve-Cliquot, Tattinger, Mumm and Krug, there are also many small grower-producers. And although there are only three grapes and one prominent style of winemaking, the flavors and terroir will allow for large differences in quality and flavor.

Neighboring the Champagne region is the Ardennes – which asserts its influence on the local cuisine. Pork dishes, like andouillette sausages, jambon d’Ardennes and pied de porc are commonly found. So are other delights like tête de veau, boudin blanc and delicious cheeses. Not commonly heralded as the heart of French cooking, you’ll be pleasantly surprised by the quality and diversity of the regional cuisine.

Champagne vineyards

Need more reasons to join up with our DuVine exploration in Champagne? Just know that this region is loaded with amazing sites: UNESCO recognizes the Citadel of Reims as a World Heritage site. The Cathedral’s impressive towers are considered National Monuments in France. The regional forests are home to unique and rare flora. Chalky soils allow for expansive underground tunnels and caves that are used to age millions of bottles of wine below your feet. And, of course, the wine will not disappoint.

In true DuVine style, we’ve selected the best hotels and restaurants to round out our new tour in Champagne. Get ready, sign-up and join me in Champagne this June where we can bike, eat, drink and sleep like the Kings of France!

After your adventure, you’ll be able to take a short train to Paris, Belgium or Germany for the continuation of your vacation in Europe.

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January 25, 2011

Bordeaux…more than just a Wine Tour

Filed under: Bike, Bordeaux, France, Wine Tasting — Tags: , , , , , , , , — Bike tour guru @ 6:01 pm

Bordeaux is, arguably, the wine capital of the world. Almost everybody who travels here is into wine. However, the good news about traveling with DuVine is that you don’t need to be a complete wine geek to come to Bordeaux. The food is great and the riding is accessible to all abilities.

The famous vines...

While our Bordeaux bicycle trip, like the region, is obsessed with the nectar of the vines, we make sure to balance our trip with some enjoyable moments that do not involve wine.

This tour is known for delicious meals that, very often, include duck and foie gras. Foodies rejoice over the home cooking by Jackie at Château Carbonneau; everyone is impressed by the delicate preparations by the chefs at Château de Sanse and Château Grand Barrail. The DuVine guides, equally in love with biking and eating, love to prepare exquisite picnics in phenomenal locations. With local specialties, healthy salads and ripe cheese, it is a feast for the eyes as well as the stomach!

Chances to enjoy pastries abound. We regularly visit a little known bakery during the Bordeaux tour. Every morsel is hand-made before being baked in an antique wood fire oven. With a chance to learn about bread making first hand by the baker, it is the perfect place to stop for a snack. Once in Saint Emilion, you’ll rapidly discover the regional specialties of macaroons and canelés. While most people have already enjoyed macaroons in their travels, canelés are still elusive. They are made with egg yolks and the egg whites, traditionally, were used to clarify the wines. You won’t go hungry on your DuVine bike trip to Bordeaux.

The breads of the little known bakery...

DuVine guests often choose to spend their free night in Saint Emilion. Here they can explore a variety of wine shops and historic monuments. Most notable is the Monolithic Church that was carved by Benedictine monks into the limestone cliff in the 11th century. The cloisters of L’Eglise collégiale de Saint Emilion are also worth exploring.

More than just wine...great cycling routes in Bordeaux

The Bordeaux cycling routes are great for less experienced riders. There are some hills, but the majority of the riding is mellow and enjoyable. The mileage is low, but for those interested, optional rides provide extensions for more avid riders. Each day includes extremely scenic rides, many along the edges of the Dordogne river.

This coming season, 2011, we’ve added an all new ride and hotel to further improve this tour. On the fifth day, guests will depart from Saint Emilion, riding through Pomerol and along the Gironde Estuary to Paulliac. On the way, there are many wonderful picnic spots and scenic vistas as well as a relaxing ferry ride. That afternoon, in the famed Haut-Médoc, opportunities for tasting wine abound. Once arriving at Cordeillan Bages, our hotel for the evening, guests will enjoy relaxing in luxury over a Michelin starred meal.

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January 21, 2011

The Lure of the Loire Valley

Filed under: Bike, France, Wine Tasting, loire valley — Tags: , , , , , , , — Bike tour guru @ 2:18 pm

Why a bicycle tour in Loire?

Let Tommy Pace, one of our guides in France, explain the magical experience that lies await in this charming FrenchValley…

Meticulously manicured Loire garden

Thanks to fertile soils and a mild climate that allow for a diversity of agriculture and wildlife to thrive, the Loire valley is known as the Jardin de la France, the Garden of France. It was for this reason that the kings and nobility of France decided to reside here. The hillsides above the river floor are littered with Châteaux that display architecture from France’s Renaissance.

This is the place for History buffs; the region boasts more than 1000 châteaux and it is associated with such famous persons as Joan of Arc, François I, Diane de Poitiers, Catherine de Medicis & Leonardo DaVinci. Our tour visits the finest Châteaux and gardens in the region, a wonderful treat for fans of art and architecture.

One of the many of Chateaux in the Loire

The Loire valley is also the place for families. For our specific family bicycle tour in the Loire Valley, we’ve taken the best visits of the region and expanded them to include more dynamic family fun. The famed cartoonist Hergé was inspired by the Château de Cheverny. He created Marlinspike Hall, an oft-used backdrop in his Tintin collection. This location, with its wonderful decoration, hunting dogs and Tintin exhibition is where you will start your family tour. The family tour also highlights Clos Lucé, Leonardo DaVinci’s home in France. Here everyone will be able to appreciate the hands-on exhibit of war machines, helicopters and other innovative creations on display in the manor and gardens where DaVinci spent the final years of his life. My personal favorite - fencing lessons – they will prepare everyone for their next duel!

Cycling in the Loire Valley

If the BIKE in DuVine motto is more your thing, then don’t overlook the Loire. The scenery makes this one of the top cycling destinations in the world and one of our top bike tours in France. In a mere 30 kilometers, you’ll be able to cruise through enchanting forests, pedal past the historic Romorantin grapes, coast alongside the Loire, and cycle by beautiful gardens. The roads are mellow and abound with relaxing vistas.

Fresh ingredients from lush farm fields need not travel far before they are turned into stunning creations on some of the finest tables in France. Fine dining will not be overlooked as you explore the region. With reservations already made for Michelin rated restaurants, we can assure that expert chefs will please even the most discerning palates on the tour.

If wine is your vice, then DuVine delivers! The Loire region is home to a diverse collection of appellations and cépages. The whites can be made from Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc and the ancient Romorantin grapes. Styles vary – dry, sweet, semi-sweet and even sparkling wines can feature flavors of honey, apple, slate, flint, violets and more. The reds, while at times overlooked, highlight the Gamay, Côt and Cabernet varietals. All choices match perfectly with the myriad of goat cheeses found throughout the valley.

In true DuVine style, the accommodations are second to none. From the top rated Domaine des Hauts de Loire to the cozy Manoir Saint-Thomas, rest and relaxation are easy to find. Whether you prefer to stroll the private gardens or sip sparkling wine poolside, you’ll be thrilled with the accommodations that we’ve selected.

Relax at Manoir St. Thomas

DuVine guides love this trip – and so will you! You won’t be disappointed by this magical destination.

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December 16, 2010

Andy’s Top 10 Wines on 2010 DuVine tours

Filed under: Bike, Bordeaux, California, Israel, Italy, Piedmont, Sonoma Valley, Top 10 lists, Wine Tasting, burgundy — Tags: , , , , , , , — Bike tour guru @ 1:16 pm

Continuing with my top 10 of 2010… I thought in celebration of the holiday spirit,  I would share my favorite spirits of the year (well…wine, actually…but nonetheless). Here’s a look at the top wines that I sampled on tour this year…Cheers!

Giovanni Manzone Barolo Riserva 1998
Aaah, the Barolos of Piedmont are always top on my list of favorite wines…and after enjoying this vintage with a Brasato di Barolo (beef braised in Barolo and slow-cooked for hours until it is tender enough to eat with a spoon) while on tour this past August, it definitely ranks in my top 10 of 2010! Ask Mauro to take you into his private tasting room..and be ready to buy the Barolo 1998. Found on Bicycle Tours in Piedmont, Italy.

With Guy-Petrus Lignac at his estate - Chateau Guadet

Château Guadet 1996, St. Emilion, Bordeaux
There is nothing like a glass of this Grand Cru paired with a delicious roast lamb…or tender steak to please the palate. And a visit to this small vineyard situated on the limestone plateau of Saint Emilion is a rare treat! If you can spend 10 minutes with Guy Petrus…you will be changed person. Found on Bicycle Tours in Bordeaux, France.

Domaine Vincent Girardin Puligny Montrachet Pucelles
It’s not an easy task trying to rate my favorite Burgundian Premier Cru that we encounter on our tours…but this year I was quite impressed with this Chardonnay. Pair with chicken with a light mushroom cream sauce and you’ll see what I mean! As they say..tastes like white flowers.  I guess I need to eat more white flowers! Found on Bicycle Tours in Burgundy, France.

Parigot & Richard, Rose Cremant Burgundy
Who doesn’t love a delightful glass of bubbly? This sparkling rose is not only a stellar example of a classic Cremant, but is also quite versatile and, with its salmon color due to its brief contact with the Pinot Noir skins, it oh so festive! Pair with gougères (a savory choux pastry with cheese) or a fresh vegetable salad with a slice of quiche, and you have the makings for a cocktail party, Sunday brunch or holiday party! Another top favorite! Don’t forget to say hi to Greg and his dad…and be careful of their caveau! Found on Bicycle Tours in Burgundy, France.

Vittorio and his Vino Santo

Vittorio Innocenti Vino Santo 1995
Join me in Tuscany for a special visit with my friend Vittorio and discover another one of my favorites. The process to make this wine hasn’t changed in 2000 years. Made by drying grapes and then crushing for higher sugar content, this sweet dessert wine from Vittorio Innocenti is simply sublime. Sit on his terrace and enjoy a Vino Santo…you will never want to come home! Found on Bicycle Tours in Tuscany, Italy.

Villa Delfini Sacro Profano
Back to the amazing wines of Piedmont is this top blend – an extraordinarily complex mixture of Barbera (sacred to Piemontese) and Cabernet Sauvignon (there isn’t a lot of love lost between them and their French cousins!). Served with chestnuts roasted over an open fire on a cool October day…talk about DuVine! Visit the Villa, say hi to Graziella, you will become family. Found on Bicycle Tours in Piedmont.

Cascina Marcantonio Barbera 2000
I know…my love of wines from this region is obviously very apparent.  And I must confess… we actually drank the last bottle on our final tour in October. This is the wine made by Guido, our guide, from one of his first vintages as a winemaker.  Guido served it to us after dinner while we were all digesting, but it would have been a wonderful compliment to his mother’s plin (homemade ravioli), as well! Found on Bicycle Tours in Piedmont. Found on Bicycle Tours in Piedmont, Italy.

With Guido and Piedmont guide, David

Chateau Angelus, 2001 Bordeaux
What’s better than some nice stinky French cheese (a Roquefort, camembert or epoisse) and a bottle of this fine grand vin from Bordeaux? Well, if it has made my top10  of 2010…pretty much only 9 other competitors! Just call me Bond. Found on Bicycle Tours in Bordeaux, France.

Shoresh 2008, Tzora, Judean Hills, Israel
I really don’t think people realize what great wines Israel is producing! In my opinion, Israeli wines are completely underestimated! Take this Shoresh from the Tzora winery …aged in French oak barrels,  this concentrated and full bodied wine is a standout. Definitely worth a visit…you’ll feel like you are in Napa or Tuscany…and the tasting room is gorgeous! Found on Bicycle Tours in Israel.

Rafinelli Zinfandel, Sonoma County, California
If you are looking to get bold…here’s your Zinfandel. Vibrant and spicy…this special wine from the Dry Creek Valley is a must on my list…and you don’t even have to hop the pond to taste it! It’ll give you a new appreciation for the Californian Zinfandel. Found on Bicycle Tours in Sonoma, USA.

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December 1, 2010

Highlights from a Season of Guiding

Filed under: Bike, Bordeaux, France, Guide posts, Guides, Staff Posts, Wine Tasting, staff stories — Tags: , , , , , , — Bike tour guru @ 4:12 pm

Tommy Pace, one of our DuVine guides has put together his own list of FAQ’s, inspired by his year of hosting guests and fielding their questions while on bicycle tours in France:

Is this really a job or is it just an extended vacation?
It is a serious job with moments of pleasure. For every tour there are countless hours spent behind the scenes to create perfect vacations for the guests. There’s lots of driving, shopping and cleaning. Some days we do bike maintenance, other days we develop and create new routes. And research – guides do lots of research to learn about the regional food, wine and history. Each tour is different and there is always a diverse set of challenges to overcome before, during and after the trip. That being said, once the hard work is done, we enjoy fabulous rides with our guests. We taste rare wines and eat to our heart’s content; it is incredible.

The life of a guide: bike eat drink sleep

How did you end up here?
My first exposure to the French culture was when I was fourteen years old; I spent a month with a French family in Southern France. I didn’t speak any French but I was forced to learn. Years later I repeated the experience spending an entire year attending a French high school. Following those life-changing experiences, I earned a BA in French from Gettysburg College and a MA in French from The University of Colorado at Boulder. Wanting to share my passion for France, I taught for a number of years before transitioning to DuVine Adventures where I could combine my love for France with biking, gastronomy and wine.

What do you do when you’re not leading a tour?
Easy question – BIKE, EAT, DRINK, SLEEP.  My brief vacations between bicycle tours consisted of exploring the Dordogne region, visiting friends in Paris and going on a solo bike tour in the Alps (185 miles of riding with 23,000’ of climbing in four days!).

What is a good day like?
The mist lifts from vineyards as the sun slowly warms the surrounding countryside with a warm soft light. I sip my coffee, enjoy a flaky pastry and discuss the regional specialties with a table of DuVine guests. We set out through the fields and forests, past Châteaux and churches. Our ride is only interrupted by photo opportunities and a delicious picnic prepared by my co-guide. After a relaxing afternoon, we head over to a small winery where we explore the work of a local winemaker and learn about his passion. We sit down to eat in his home; the wine is delicately balanced and sensational. The food is rich, flavorful and exquisite. I sleep like a baby knowing that I have the best job in the world.

Do you ever have bad days?
Occasionally there are challenging days. They usually start without coffee…
Luckily for everyone involved, the good days are plentiful and the difficult days are practically nonexistent thanks to my co-guides and the exceptional, forward-thinking DuVine staff that have created fabulous itineraries.

DuVine arriving at Chambord

What is your favorite tour?
All of our tours are great but I really like the Bordeaux bicycle tour – the wine is incredible!

What is your favorite visit?
Bordeaux bicycle tour – Château Carbonneau
Loire bicycle tour – Domaine Flammand Delétang
Provence bicycle tour – Chocolatier Joël Durand

What is the best part of the job?
The people make the experience. On every tour we get to visit phenomenal locals who share their passions, and regional specialties, with the group. Each week I get to meet new DuVine guests who are enthusiastic and exciting. And my co-guides in France are incredible, funny and intelligent. I’m constantly learning from everybody with whom I interact.

Sum up the experience in one sentence.
The life of a DuVine guide can be extremely rewarding, nerve-wracking, exciting, educational and frustrating all at the same time.

Vertical Tasting at Guiraud

Would you do it again?
Looking back on a season of guiding, I can easily say that it was an amazing experience – an experience that I am excited to repeat.

What are your top-5 highlights from the season?
Riding all out to catch the ferry from Blaye to Lamarque on a private tour.
Barrel samples of the 2009 Château Rauzon-Segla
Meeting Thierry Manoncourt
Tasting 1996 Chateau Palmer
Working with the entire DuVine team in Burgundy.

I hope this helps give you a picture of the life of a DuVine guide. If you have any other questions, feel free to contact me. Enjoy the winter season and sign up now for your next DuVine bicycle tour in France.

Grand Saint Bernard

À l’année prochaine…

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May 28, 2010

Dede went to Rioja on a Bike Tour!

Filed under: Bike, European bike tours, Rioja, Spain, Staff Posts, Tours, Wine Tasting, staff stories — Tags: , , , , , , , — Bike tour guru @ 1:19 pm

 

Rioja

Rioja rocks!

Although, perhaps I should not divulge this secret (despite being DuVine Adventure’s Marketing Manager) …as I’d prefer to keep this region to myself. Yes, I just returned from a picture perfect week on a bike tour to Rioja Spain and can’t stop raving about how amazing this epic countryside is. Imagine the perfect cycling road…rolling green hills, brilliant azure sky, snow capped mountains in the distance, miles and miles of open road without a car [or anything else, really] in sight until you happen upon a medieval village with its castle rising above the landscape of a land frozen in time. And that’s just the cycling! Just wait until you taste the wine…

Let me just preface by saying that this was much more than just a pleasant surprise (as it was nothing like what I expected). I’m not sure why my imagined perception was so lack luster…but in this case, perception certainly was not reality…actually quite the antithesis! I was absolutely stunned by how amazing this area truly is.

Perhaps one of the most important features to highlight about Rioja is how stunning the landscape is – almost surreal with its vibrant hues of emerald and chartreuse wheat fields undulating in the breeze, virtually cloudless azure skies, ferrous-rich red clay soil and snow white capped mountains rising above the empty asphalt roads. This, I wasn’t expecting….maybe Tuscany or Sicily…but not Spain, right?

Epic roads

From day one, as we drove out from the urban expanse of Madrid and headed into the countryside, the landscape was ever changing – the only constant was a range of mountains (and although different ranges – a ubiquitous presence nonetheless) – and even those varied in the amount of snow covering their peaks. I have to admit, if you have to endure a long road trip in the van…it definitely helps to have scenic vistas to distract you! Actually, the ride isn’t that bad (and it is the longest of the trip so you get it over with in the beginning) – 3 hours from Madrid to Abalos. And, as aforementioned,  not only is the scenery captivating…but there is also plenty of time to catch a nap if you have arrived that day like our family from California…or are still suffering a bit of jet lag from your hop across the pond.

Van 1 and van 2 (as they familiarly became labeled) caravanned along the highway…we stopped midway along the route for a quick coffee and a chance to finally meet our fellow travelers. 2 sets of friends from Canada, a family from California, and me – lucky 13! Well, add to that our tag team of guides: Pablo, Marcus and Oliver…and you had the makings for what became an incredibly fun and exciting adventure! We soon began realize that we had a true comic genius along who was truly entertaining and kept us laughing daily. I can’t thank Marius enough for providing a wonderful sense of comic relief and for being such a pleasant traveling companion. It certainly helped to have some partners in crime along. Yes, in addition to practicing my lapsed Spanish, I was introduced to a whole new vocabulary throughout the week.

Marius on the road

As you can surmise… what a week it became! Great company, epic riding, delicious Rioja wines and some of the best guides by our side, fulfilling our every need – what more could you ask for?

It all began in Abalos…where we arrived at our hotel, had time for a quick change and then headed out for our first foray on the roads of Rioja. Honestly, I don’t think we encountered a single car on that ride as we cycled astride along the empty country roads. There was just plenty of rolling terrain and a steep climb back into town for a well earned cocktail outside on the patio of the hotel, where we were bathed in sunshine. Plates of Manchego cheese, selected hams, olives, etc…and of course…bottles of their own vino tinto from the vineyard.

And like a fine wine, our days just kept improving with time…

Every day became a new adventure as we traversed the remote and romantic countryside – climbing and descending the rolling green hills. The general consensus (and long-standing joke) was that Pablo had a very unique interpretation of what a ‘flat’ road consisted of…apparently there are some really flat hills in Spain?! Lots of laughter filled the days as friendships were forged both on the road and over glasses of vino and plates of tapas.

Castle view

Need we forget, it is not all about these perfect cycling roads. The land itself is rich in history…and the landscape is dotted everywhere with remnants of the past. From medieval castles looming high above the surrounding valleys, walled cities that remain seemingly untouched by time, to the ever-present ancient architectural marvels – aqueducts, monasteries, abbeys and gothic cathedrals along the way – this is a fascinating place. You truly feel as if you have been transported back to antiquity…a time traveler meandering through a lost world…becoming part of that history.

Be it these man-made structures or natural formations…beauty abounds. Just take a walk through the Yecla Gorge or hike down to see the Hoces de rio Duraton Natural Park. (I’m sorry, have I mentioned how impressive the landscape is?) Honestly…I think that you, too, will share my sentiment and find that whatever you may be imagining…really isn’t as stunning as is the Rioja reality.

Oh, and did I mention the wine? Hmmm…maybe that’s one of the secrets I should keep to myself?

Muse Dinastai Vivanco

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April 16, 2010

Biking and Wine in Israel – Video Blog – DuVine TV

Filed under: Israel, Tours, Wine Tasting — Tags: , , , — Bike tour guru @ 9:23 am

Israeli wine is produced by hundreds of wineries, ranging in size from small boutique enterprises to large companies producing over ten million bottles per year. Wine has been produced in the Land of Israel since biblical times.

The modern Israeli wine industry was founded by Baron Edmond James de Rothschild, owner of the Bordeaux estate Château Lafite-Rothschild. Today, Israeli wine making takes place in five vine-growing regions:

  • Galil (Galilee, including the Golan Heights), the region most suited for viticulture due to its high elevation, cool breezes, marked day and night temperature changes and rich, well-drained soils
  • Shimshon (Samson), located between the Judean Hills and the Coastal Plain
  • The Negev, a semi-arid desert region

This video provides a unique perspective from 4 of the regions wine makers and what it means to produce wine in Israel.

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March 26, 2010

Where in the World is Andy?

Filed under: Bike, Israel, Tours, Wine Tasting — Tags: , , , , — Bike tour guru @ 9:43 am

Alive and well and living in….Israel. [more like 'living it up'-DuVine style]

What…you were expecting Jacques Brel in Paris? Don’t get me wrong,  it’s true that I am very fond of France, as it was my first destination to conquer… but as you know, I am constantly on the go in search of new DuVine destinations to offer you.  So…after numerous inquiries about a tour to Israel, I am here scouting out our newest adventure. It is a work in progress…but my creative juices are flowing…so here’s a sneak peak at what’s to come.

My first stop after arriving in Tel Aviv was a quick visit to my hotel (which has an incredible view of the beach, I might add). A quick change and I was off to explore. Have bike, will travel…as I headed off for a scenic ride up the coast to the harbor and then on to the ancient port city of  Jaffa – which is believed to be one of the oldest ports cities in the world.

Needless to say, Jaffa is a city steeped in history…from antiquity to present day…and is cited many times in the Old Testament, from being the port-of-entry for the cedars of Lebanon to the place where Jonah embarked for Tarshish before his eminent demise. It is also known for it diverse population of Jews, Christians, and Muslims.

As I returned to Tel Aviv, I was impressed by its moderness as well as its unique architectural style -  designed in the Bauhaus school and recognized as a UNESCO heritage site. Dinner was at Dalal, a restaurant in the very hip area of Tel Aviv that is home to a plethora of wine bars and outdoor restaurants - a fantastic lamb shwarma with a lovely Cabernet/Merlot blend from the Flam winery.  Then it was off to bed to fight off the jet lag and rest up for a visit north to the Carmel region.

I left Tel Aviv early and stopped along the way at the Tishbi winery for a tasting with its owner Golan. Tishbi has crafted some really nice Cabernets and Merlots and a tasty Sauvingon Blanc. Next stop was the Rothschild burial grounds with its gorgeous garden, and then a bike ride down to the ancient Roman port of Caesarea  – where Herod, in 22 BC, constructed a deep sea harbor with markets, baths, and imposing public buildings on the ruins of Straton’s Tower. The Rothschild family has been, and still is very involved with this site - having created the Caesarea Edmond Benjamin de Rothschild Foundation to advance education and culture across Israel. Needless to say, a very interesting place!

Next stop…the Carmel Forest Spa, a peaceful property set amid the lush forest with sweeping views down to the sea.  Along the way to the hotel, I stopped for an amazing road side lunch of grape leaves, and rice stuffed cabbage from a Druze roadside stand. The Druze are a small religious community of people (considered to be an offshoot of Islam but unique because of their incorporation of other philosphies) who are recognized in Israel as both a distinct religion and ethnicity. Regardless of who they are, they made an amazing lunch! The day was topped off by an incredible massage at the spa and dinner with the hotel’s manager.

Another day down, and another yet to come…as today finds me off to frolic in the salty mist in a  land called Galilee. We first pass through Nazereth and then Zefat – a very old and religious city located at the highest altitude in Galilee. The town is also recognized as the place where Kaballah originated. Hence, a fascinating place whose location also commands magnificent views – east to the Golan, north to the Hermon and Lebanon, west to Mt. Meron and the Amud Valley, and south to Tiberias and the Kinneret (Sea of Galilee).

I also need to fill you on a great tasting I had at the Dalton winery. Set in the beautiful green and mountainous part of Upper Galilee, the winery is only 5 km from the Lebanese border and overlooks Hermon Mountain.  Naama Mualem, perhaps the best woman winemaker in Israel, produces some really nice Cabernets, Barberas, at red Zinfandels at Dalton.

On a side note, I’d like everyone to know how amazing the breakfasts are here in Israel. Ask and ye shall receive…everything from salads to fruits to nuts to fresh breads…not to mention… eggs and lox and blintzes. A great way to fuel up for a big day biking the hills of Galilee! Even better, it seems that every hotel has a hot tub (apparently it’s a big thing here?)…perfect for the legs after a long ride during the day.

Well, tomorrow I am off to trek through Golan Heights and visit the Dead Sea to see if the myth is true about the incredible buoyancy! Stay tuned for more ‘on the road with Andy’ tales from Israel…and my visit to Jordan and Petra!

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