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February 28, 2011

Dreaming of Alsace?

Biking in late winter:  It’s cold and there’s slush on the road. So I’m dreaming of Colmar in the north of France. NOT because Colmar is cold!

Because it’s dry, the second driest city in France.  Drier than Nimes, Avignon, or Nice type dry. I’m dreaming of the massive bells of St. Martin singing out in warm tones, the quintessential coffee at the outdoor café, the open timbers and dark volcanic rock of the town’s well-preserved medieval buildings. The vision is expanding.

The rows of vines that glide up the foothills of the Vosges Mountains

The sun is out on the rows of vines that glide up the foothills of the Vosges Mountains.  One can imagine the warm day, on a bike with dry feet, pedaling towards a tasting of Grand Cru wines in Riquewhir, getting the pulse rate up on a climb through deciduous forests.  The evening is reserved for a feast in Kayersburg, and the cool night is perfect for an after-dinner stroll and a restorative sleep. I’m dreaming of a bicycle tour in Alsace.

At DuVine Adventures, we offer bicycle tours in France including; Burgundy, Bordeaux, Provence, and so many more to fulfill and exceed your dreams – we offer the Alsace to reveal those still undiscovered.  The beauty of half-timbered villages decorated in flowers, the mountaintop castles looking over views of the Black Forest on the German side of the Rhine, the peaceful silence hidden in the thick woods, we at DuVine Adventures want to invite you to this all. And of course much more.

The Alsace is a contradictory place – not quite French, not quite German – nestled into the high Vosges on one side, defined by the Rhine River and its valley on the other.

One of the charming villages nestled into the Alsatian countryside

Strasbourg, its capital city, is the cosmopolitan home to the European Parliament (part of the legislative branch of the European Union); but its elderly still prefer to speak the regional dialect, Alsatian.  It is the home of stocky, homey meals like choucroute (sauerkraut and pork) and also Olivier Nasti, France’s best chef of 2007 – and darn right we eat at his restaurant!

And the wine! Oh my gosh!  I’m about to crumble into a whole bunch of wine-nerdism but for those of you just needing assurance about the wines I’ve one word – BEAUTIFUL.  If wine talk bores you, go to the next paragraph.  For the rest of you…  THE WINES OF THE ALSACE ARE SOME OF THE BEST TASTING, AND SOME OF THE BEST DEALS, IN THE WORLD.  Arguably the best pinot in the world, La Romanée Conté goes for around $6000 a bottle on a lucky day. Clos St. Hume, arguably the best dry riesling in the world, goes for around $200 (Still not cheap – but, the best). And reisling is more expressive of “terroir” than pinot noir. Speaking of terroir, the Alsace is cooler than Burgundy.

Yeah, I said that.  COOLER THAN BURGUNDY.  Burgundy has limestone and clay.  Alsace has those and basalt and volcanic sands and granite.  Burgundy’s big guns are Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.  Alsace comes at you with Riesling and Gewürtztraminer and Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris and and Muscat and Sylvaner and Pinot Blanc and they grow the Chardonnay on the flats to make their delicious sparkling wine.  So you combine all those different soils, with all the different expositions on the hillsides, with all those different grapes, and you’ve got nearly limitless possibilities of wines.

The wines of Alsace

… And the wines are usually dry, unless you ask for their amazing production of sweet wines.  Ok, so we are all back together, wine lovers and maybe those interested in biking more than wine.  The biking!  The Vosges Mountains are the forgotten range of France.  When the Tour de France first looked for a mountain stage in 1905, it was in the Vosges.  When Henrich Haussler escaped the peloton in unseasonably cold rainy weather for a day of glory in 2009, it was in the Vosges.

They are not the Alps or the Pyrénées but the rides work up an appetite.  There is a sense of accomplishment that comes from biking a mountain to see the Rhine Valley from an eagle’s view.  And there is a sense of serenity that one finds biking through the cloister of trees in the Vosges that sets them apart from their larger counterparts.

Haute-Koenigsbourg castle

My legs are a little tired.  I might have imagined the climb up to Haute-Koenigsbourg castle too vividly.

There is still slush on the ground outside, here in Boston.  In a few short months DuVine Adventures will be on the Alsatian slopes pedaling under a canopy of trees; or in a winemaker’s home, tasting a dry Riesling; and in an awarded restaurant, eating a thoughtfully prepared meal.  We want you to be there with us on an Alsatian bicycle tour!

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February 8, 2011

Bonne Annee from Burgundy! – a mid-winter’s welcome from DuVine Guide Keith Klein

DuVine Guide Keith Klein writes from France, looking forward to having everyone come to visit him this season on a bicycle tour in Burgundy.

Its the middle of winter here. The vineyards are full of people pruning off last year’s growth, being careful to leave one or two good shoots to bear the new crop. The days are short, and the temperature is hovering around freezing, and my thoughts are turning to ……. BIKING! And eating, drinking and sleeping too, of course.  The warm days will be here in a couple of short months, and none too soon for my liking.  Spring is one of my favorite times of year here among the Grand Crus. The spring flowers in the hills are fantastic; there are over 100 different species of wild orchids alone, and some can be found on every spring ride. The work in the fields will continue of course, but the wine in the barrels will be mellowing away until bottling time later in the year.  And best of all, our friends in the cellars will have time to show us around and offer some of their finest wines to taste. The sensational vintage of 2009 will at last be in bottles, although we will want to be patient as it slowly matures.

Why not book a spring bicycle tour in France to this lovely region, Burgundy, which I call home? The days will be warm enough to enjoy, although the nights can be brisk. But we can deal with cool nights, sitting before a roaring fire eating Boeuf Bougignon and washing it down with a Savigny-les-Beaune  premiere cru. Or how about wild boar, or Coq-au-Vin? And don’t forget Oeufs en Muerette, our Burgundian way to make eggs a dish fit for a Duke.  We’ll have time to visit a few friends, admire stunning views (on a clear day you can see the Alps), ride past enchanting castles, sample the local cheeses (Epoisses, yum!), and of course drink the finest wines in the world  ( I may be biased, but I’m right!).

I was out riding today and I happened upon our friend Bertrand Ambroise cutting firewood behind his winery. Those of you who have had the good luck to have tasted his wines know what he can do with the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes of Burgundy. We don’t always visit there, he’s a very busy man, but when we do it’s sublime.  And Bertrand, for all his virtuosity is not the only winemaker in Burgundy; Far from it!

I also stopped at Drouin-Laroze where the holiday atmosphere persists, at least for a while; Christine was busy, so I didn’t ask for photos (one should never put an elegant lady in a position not, uh, elegant so the decorations in the entrée to the domaine must tell the story. Come visit when the times are warmer and the lunch, prepared by ma chere amie, is ready to eat!

Let’s not neglect eating and sleeping! Chez Simon remains one of the little secrets we keep for our guests. The Chef (ALWAYS capitalized) keeps us excited by his preparations, and Carole, the lady of the house, is most welcoming. I LOVE the fact that one of the best restauranteurs in Burgundy (and in all of France) is married to the cousin of one of my cycling buddies . Not that this makes me in any way lenient in my critique of the food; NON! The cuisine is simply excellent, as you will discover. Its always market fresh, but I remember with fondness (longing?) his St. Jaques poele avec truffes d’ete. Sigh. And the hotels we use couldn’t be finer. I stopped by the Cep hotel in Beaune to wish everyone a happy new year (a tradition in France) and I am always thrilled to see the staff. So professional, so, well, perfect.

There is nothing in the world I enjoy more than cycling through Burgundy, a beautiful corner of the world, and I’d love to show it to you. Come visit us soon, or when the weather warms up!

BTW, leave a comment below on your favorite wine from Burgundy and maybe I will take a ride over to the winery and give it a try and post a picture of me enjoying a glass!

Cheers,

Keith

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February 2, 2011

Picturesque Portugal

Where in the world is Camille?

A view from the road in Portugal

On the road in Portugal creating a new DuVine bike tour! Here’s a sneak preview of what’s to come…

Think Europe, 30 years undisturbed.  The landscapes of the Alentejo are peppered with vineyards, cork trees, fields, hilltop perched villages, and laundry hanging out to dry.  Cobblestone streets are still the common look of all the towns here, making it an interesting cycling experience – no road bikes welcome!  Marble is as common as cinderblock, adding an elegance and feel about the area that leaves one quite impressed.  I really have this image that once upon a time, the streets were paved with marble – road bikes welcomed!

One of the many cork trees

Picture yourself on a bike riding through the country with eucalyptus trees lining the street and shepherds tending to their flocks.  As you wind your way through the narrow streets you are sure to pass old ladies dressed all in black with their wide brimmed matching hats coming back from their gardens, baskets a plenty.  Today I saw a man out walking his 2 goats and a sheep, one of the goats on a leash.  I was too timid to ask where he was going, or where he had come from. Laundry is hung up all will- nilly in parking lots, on stop signs at intersections…you name it…apparently no one is afraid to hide their washing here.  The houses and buildings seem to be a thing of pride,  as they are all well cared for with a fresh coat of white paint and nice colorful trim in either yellow, blue or green.  In the pastures you see lots of sheep, some pigs and cows.

The potential for unforgettable DuVine picnic spots is limitless: be it at the base of an old windmill looking over a fortified town, in the shade of a cork oak forest, on the banks of the border lakes with views of Spain, or in a winery while tasting the best wines the region has to offer (a pretty recent industry for them!)  Amazingly, the top 2 export markets for the wines of the Alentejo are Brazil and Angola!

A potential picnic spot

The roads are a bit bumpy but the rolling hills offer amazing views for miles on end.  The region is the hottest in the country but doesn’t compare to the heat of Spain-its neighbor to the east.  The Atlantic influence keeps the temperatures at a warm but comfortable temperature with a refreshing cool breeze always present.

A  trip to the Alentejo is a discovery of old world charm with a gentle hospitality;  while its food and wine will please your palate’s desire to try something new. So stay tuned for your chance to join us on a bicycle tour in Portugal and discover this untouched region in DuVine style!

Tasting room at Ramos

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January 21, 2011

The Best of Provence in 2011

DuVine has done it again! In 2011, we’ve altered and improved our Bicycle Tour Provence Itinerary to make it the best trip we’ve ever offered in the region. “How is it possible?” you might ask. We’ve taken the highlights from our Provence Classic and combined it with the Guide’s favorite moments from our Provence Lavender tour. Not sure what this means? Here is a rundown of what to expect in 2011.

Pont du Gard aqueduct

 

The trip starts at the stunning Vieux Castillon hotel in Le Gard Provençal. From here our trip cruises down hill and across the historic Pont-du-Gard, a Roman aqueduct built in 19 BC. In the summer months, it is a wonderful place to stop for a quick swim in le gard, the river below. From here we enjoy a beautiful ride around the garrigue, a typical Provençal landscape. Upon our return to the hotel, there is an opportunity for a dip in the pool before we enjoy a refreshing glass of rosé and carefully crafted dinner.

Our next day continues the exploration of the region, this time by heading over towards Uzès. The riding is more difficult than the previous day but every pedal stroke is worth the effort. Enjoying a pastis in the town square, you’ll learn to embrace to local lifestyle. As you leave Uzès, you’ll cycle along tree-lined streets – the ultimate image of the French countryside. Past vineyards and sunflowers, you’ll arrive at your hotel to be entertained by Mario at his gem of a restaurant. The local dishes will blow you away.

As we cross the Rhône, one of the longest rivers in Europe, you’ll leave behind Le Vieux Castillon in the direction of Saint Remy. Along the way, you’ll enjoy an expertly crafted picnic by your DuVine guide. We’ve selected an exclusive spot near the Abbey de St. Michel-de-Frigolet for you to relax midday. After a brief rest, you’ll enjoy a wonderful descent as you work your way to our next hotel, the Château de Roussan in Saint Rémy de Provence.

Market day in St. Remy

 

In this fabulous town, known for olive oil, Nostradomus and delicious Joël Durand chocolate, you’ll enjoy a relaxing night. Take a recommendation from your guide as you select your own restaurant for a private meal with someone special.

In the morning you’ll awake to the streets full of excitement. It’s market day in Saint Rémy! (check out our Market Day in Provence blog post) Wander around the square and you’ll find exceptional local produce, pungent cheeses, lavender, handmade soap, local olive oil and more. This is a great place to find a souvenir from your bicycle trip to Provence. Departing Saint Rémy, you’ll head along the Alpilles towards Gordes. The Alpilles, know as the little Alps, are breathtaking.  Ominous as they look, they’re only miniature versions of mountains – you’ll be able to bike along them without too much trouble. Crossing the Durance, you’ll see the beautiful landscape of Le Vaucluse. This is lavender country!

The famous olive oil

 

From our final hotel, La Bastide de Gordes, you’ll cycle past beautiful villages that sit perched upon hills. In this region, your senses will rejoice with the wonderful colors and scents of Provence. With a truffle and wine tasting scheduled for afternoon, as well as a visit to an olive mill, every discerning gourmand will be pleased. Round out your experience with a morning ride prior to your departure.

Cycling through the Provence countryside

 

There is no doubt that we’re offering the best that Provence has to give. Experience it all: the local culture, the wine, truffles, olive oil, chocolate, pastis, lavender and more. I couldn’t imagine a better location for your next DuVine Adventure.

Join me, Tommy Pace…your DuVine guide in France,  in 2011 on this newly refined itinerary. It’s an experience that you’ll never forget!

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November 12, 2010

A Novice Cyclist in Tuscany: October 2010

 

the novice...

I found out in July that I would be going on a bicycle tour in Tuscany in October.  I had envisioned weeks of training and long bike rides outside to whip myself into excellent shape and prepare for the hills.  However, life got in the way, and I didn’t get to as many rides as I had wanted.  I was, however, averaging two to three spin classes per week and a thirty minute run at least once per week, twice, closer to the date.  Since I am just beginning as a cyclist, I was feeling slightly nervous about the hills and I did not want to slow the group down.  In the end, I did not have to be nervous about the riding and everything about the trip was fantastic!  We had a WONDERFUL group, Tuscany is beautiful, the guides were amazing, there was great weather for riding, and the hills were manageable – and quite fun.  I thought I would share some of my experiences riding in response to some common questions and in preparation for your next trip.

A day in the Tuscan hills

I had hoped to have everything sorted out and be packed up days in advance but I was questioning what to bring to cycle for the late October weather.  Layers seemed like the best idea.  I decided to purchase leg warmers and arm warmers to wear in addition to my bike shorts and DuVine jersey.  I figured it gave me more options and diversity for the tour and for future riding.  The leg warmers were great, I wore them every day.  The arm warmers slid slightly but I was still happy to have them, I took them off on two different days during the rides.  Others on the tour, were wearing shorts with their legs exposed and other than one chilly morning ride in the valley, they seemed to be ok.  It rained on the first day and I was happy to have a rain coat and my legs covered.  Other layers I used while riding, I stored in my bike bag when I did not need them.  I am certain that I also could have put anything extra in the van.

happy on the hybrid

I was also questioning about whether to request a hybrid or a road bike.  After much deliberation, I decided on the hybrid.  In the end, I was happy with my choice. I do not have experience on a road bike but I know that it is lighter and takes less work.  However, about half the group had hybrids and I liked the gear options going uphill.

I arrived in Rome on Saturday and spent the night in the Eternal City, before heading to Chiusi on the train on Sunday morning.  I lived in Italy for five years and I immediately got a warm, familiar, sense of home feeling.  Rome is one of my favorite places – I love the pulse of the city, its glamour, history, culture, food, coffee and the Italian people.   If time allows, it is a great place to spend a few days before or after the tour.

Some Arrival Tips:
• The taxi from Fiumicino airport to the center of Rome is a fixed price of 40 euros.  Talk to the taxi driver about this before you get in.
• When traveling to Chiusi, keep in mind that there are not always station announcements.  Pay close attention to what time you are scheduled to arrive and from the train windows look for the blue and white signs with the station names on the platforms.  Of course you can always ask someone on the train.
• For all of the regional trains (and trains where you do not have a reservation and there is no seat assignment), you must validate your train ticket, which stamps the date and time on the ticket.  This is what the conductor looks for when he comes around and checks the ticket.  There are small yellow boxes at the beginning of every platform to validate the ticket.  If you are in a real jam, and you realize once you get on that you have not validated it, you can write the date and the time along the left edge of the ticket.

Guides in waiting...

Our guide Tom was waiting for us on the platform and he took us to the first accommodation, La Chiusa.  After dropping off our luggage and getting into our bike gear, we had an introduction and toasted a glass of Prosecco while overlooking the beautiful rolling hills where we would be riding for the next few days.  The Tuscan scenery is breathtaking and with the hills, come the most beautiful views.  We had a bike fitting and started the first ride.  Although the first hill out of La Chiusa is short and steep, once we started on the decent, I couldn’t stop smiling as I glided down.  It actually was raining but I was enjoying it so much that it didn’t bother me.  We rode single file and I seemed to be about average – in regards to my athletic ability.  We rode up and down the rolling hills to the church of San Biago.  Climbing back to La Chiusa, I realized that I could really enjoy the climbs, this being one my favorites.  At dinner with the Michelin starred chef, everyone was charmed by Umberto and Dania. We were even invited into the kitchen, which was a special treat.

In the kitchen with Dania

The next few days of riding consisted of uphills and downhills and even one particularly enjoyable flat stretch.  I settled right into the saddle and the group more or less seemed to ride together.  On day two there was a tough hill and I had almost convinced myself that I must have asthma and really wished that I had done more cardio training.  However, by the next downhill, I was convinced that I could be a cyclist.  The guides do an excellent job of going over the route and letting you know which parts of the day will be more challenging than others.   As we had been prepped for the climb to the hilltop town of Montalcino, I was certain that I would be getting in the van with some others from our group.   I was talked into doing the climb (which is one of the more difficult of the week) and I was very glad that I had done it.  I was slow and stopped a few times but after finishing it, I realized it wasn’t impossible.  It also helped me for the rest of tour because I knew that if I could do that hill, then I could do any of the hills we faced and I no longer worried about them anymore.  In addition to gaining stamina as we rode along, I also gained confidence in my abilities.

quiet roads in quaint villages...

On the fourth day we rode to Siena.  This was my favorite day of riding, although, the next day through Chianti was a close second.  Day four is broken into three parts: a moderate ride in the morning which leads to the Abbey of Monte Oliveto Maggiore, a challenging ride in the afternoon and an even more challenging extra ride to the hotel.  The morning ride was great.  For the second part of the day, I went slowly, took short breaks with other riders when needed, and was surprised when we had reached the top of the last hill.  It seemed that many members of our group couldn’t decide between the extra ride and going into Siena but most ended up take the van to Siena.  I amazed myself by continuing with the extra ride.  We would have had to get into the van to be shuttled to the hotel.  Not only did I not want to get in the van, but I did not want to get off my bike.  I opted for the extra ride and did not end up taking the van at all during the week.

The routes took us through stunning countryside with views of rolling hills that extended far into the distance and we ended up in enchanting hill towns.  I impressed myself with my biking abilities and I think that preparation for this moderate to challenging tour is worthwhile.  The more confident I was on my bike, the more I enjoyed the hills.  However, as David says, if your bike gets tired, it can always go on the top of the van.  By Friday I did not want the tour to end.  I had shared a wonderful week with a great group of people, sometimes I had even laughed so hard that my stomach hurt.  The food was divine with very memorable meals and wine tastings.  The guides went above and beyond with many DuVine surprises and we had special connections with the locals, especially at the home of Domenico and Lina.  Best of all, we got to enjoy it all by bike.

The stunning countryside...

As the group departed in Florence, I had already started dreaming about my next DuVine Adventure.

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September 9, 2010

Where in the world is Andy – European Tour

On the road with Andy

Where in the world is Andy? Honestly…it’s hard to keep up with him these days. At the moment he is on his European bike tour – making cameo appearances at our bike tours in Italy and bike tours in France as he drops in to visit guests on the road. He reports that “things in Italy are magical – gorgeous hotels and sunny skies help…as does pici con fungi”.

He spent 2 days in Tuscany ‘working’ on creating a special new November offering – a truffle hunting, olive picking, cooking class tour with Dania at La Chiusa. But all work and no play makes Andy a dull boy… that’s why he enjoyed a great ride in the Tuscan hills with his fellow DuVine guests and a delicious dinner at Botte Piena. And apparently the meal was so great…it inspired song!  (or something along those lines ) According to our insider scoop, as our Tuscan guide Angelo entertained the group with his guitar, Andy joined in with some inspired back-up vocals. Yup…. just another DuVine “day at the office”!

Epic ride day in Piedmont

And why stop there? Andy was off to join another group on a bicycle tour in Piedmont on an epic climb to Barolo amid sunshine and the clearest of blue skies – which revealed the majestic peaks of the surrounding Alps and Apennines. Here they celebrated life and landscape with an out of this world lunch at a Michelin starred restaurant – featuring a plethora of gastronomic delights including savory ravioli, veal and tuna fish, carpaccio,  and truffled risotto among others – followed by a Barolo tasting.  It was another inspired Andy moment as he decided to purchase a few bottles. He later joined the group for pizza with said bottles in hand and opened the Barolo to celebrate the day! According to Andy…our very happy DuViners “cannot believe that life can be this good”. Oh…but it can. After all…this is just another day in the life of DuVine.

Epic lunch in Piedmont

Andy sends a big shout out to all of those Italian guides who are making dreams come true and blowing our guests away with their DuVine style – including David, Angelo, Michael, Giovanni and Guido!

Another day, another adventure…as Andy left Italy behind and made his way to France to see if our French guides could top their Italian counterparts. He arrived just in time to witness the shipment of our new fleet of Giant bikes in Provence. That’s right…new bikes in France! (as usual…DuVine is continually striving to improve and provide the best experience possible for our guests)

After visting the DuVine office in Orange and spending a great evening with French manager, Camille, and fellow guide Greg…he headed to our Bordeaux bike tour to join guides Jenn, Justin and Thomas on tour with Team Vergara…a private group of DuVine 3 time “repeat offenders” from Brazil (first Tuscany, then Napa, and now Bordeaux). It sounds as if the French guides are giving the Italians a run for their money…and the tour is shaping up to be another epic adventure for our Brazilian friends.

With Team Vergara at Chateau Figeac tasting

Tastings of St. Emilion Cru wines, a visit to Chateau Figeac, an exquisitely “French” dinner at Chateau Grand Barrail,  a private tour by local Guy Petrus at Chateaux Gaudet in St. Emilion with a member of the Brazilan consulate (and perhaps a bit too much foie gras?).  Oh..and apparently the great roads through the vineyards are laden with perfect looking Merlot grapes just waiting to be harvested.

Is there really more to see? But of course! He is currently en route to visit Gregory and Avery in Provence who are hosting a group of 14 DuViners…and then it’s off to ride with a small group in Burgundy, joining Keith and Vincent for what might just be considered a Burgundy rite of passage: the tasting of cremant.

A DuVine day in Bordeaux with Team Vergara

So stay tuned for more highlights from Andy’s adventures on his DuVine European tour.

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