In August of 2010, I (Erica Stokes) was badly in need of a scenery change. I had to get away. Feeling the itch to get out of town, I Googled “life changing trips” and clicked away until a I found myself on the DuVine Adventures website a short while later. I didn’t have a destination in mind when I started my search, and after seeing what DuVine had to offer, I really didn’t care where my travels were going to take me. I knew this was the perfect tour company for me, and I was going to be on the next available trip with them – no matter where it was. I went straight to the trip calendar to find that a bike trip for Rioja was taking place in two weeks. I already knew I loved the region’s wine, so I booked my first DuVine Adventure.
My first DuVine experience in Rioja
As a solo traveler and novice cyclist, I had some nerves creep up on me in the days prior to my departure. This was going to be my first solo trip abroad. First trip to Spain. No bilingual skills. In running shape? Yes. In biking shape? No! Pedals and clips and only a week to learn how?! Can Rioja be done on a hybrid? All of these fears were put to ease by Holly and Megan in the Boston office, and by my guide in Madrid. DuVine took care of me from start to finish, and the only thing on my mind was enjoying my rides through Rioja. I had an extraordinarily unique experience in Rioja, as my group consisted of only two other travelers. This meant lots of solo time on the road for me to soak up gorgeous Rioja views, with my DuVine support van just far enough away should I need any help. Never once did I have to worry about bicycle mechanics, what I was having for dinner, how to order said dinner in Spanish… or anything really for that matter. The experience was truly life changing for me. So magical, in fact, that I went on my second DuVine adventure less than 12 months later.
Life changing...
Four measly months after my first trip with DuVine to Rioja, I began having withdrawal symptoms. Nobody was setting up roadside picnics in castles for me, and mid day wine tastings ceased to exist. I needed DuVine style back in my life! I couldn’t wait any longer to get back on the bike in wine country, so I got in touch with my Boston travel experts and asked them what the “must see” trip was. They told me that the Tuscany bike tour is the most popular DuVine tour, and they recommended that for my next trip. I booked my second DuVine Adventure, this time with my college volleyball teammate and best friend, Lindsay. Our trip was planned for the second week of August.
Lindsay and me in Tuscany
Being a DuVine guest for the second time around, I felt a little smug going into the trip. On our first day when the guides picked us all up from the Chiusi train station, I felt like I had a leg up on the other guests, “They have no idea how amazing this is going to be! And I do!”, I couldn’t help but scream on the inside. Truth be told, I couldn’t have been more impressed by our group. After an introduction to the other guests at the train station, you could already see intermingling and bonding taking place. We had some truly special people on this tour. One guest in our group later said that it was as if DuVine had hand selected all of us to be on the trip together, that’s how well everyone gelled!
Here’s my recap of our fabulous week in Tuscany:
With my guides
Day One:
Our guides begin the trip with a Chiusi train station pick up, where we meet our fellow cyclists for the week. We head to the villa La Chiusa for our first two nights in Montefollonico and we relaxed on the terrace to unwind from a morning of traveling. The unwinding includes gearing up for our first ride though, so once in our gear, we hit the road by easing into the week with a fifteen mile out and back. Our destination for the afternoon is the Church of San Biagio (just on the outskirts of Montepulciano), where our guides give us a history of the beautiful 8th century church. Upon our arrival back to La Chiusa, we meet for a champagne toast on the terrace overlooking the hills of where we were riding just that afternoon. Dania brings us the most fabulous pizza appetizer I’ve ever tasted, and despite the warnings of a large meal to come, Lindsay and I can’t help but enjoy the delicious homemade creation. As a New Yorker of eleven years, I can’t pass up a good bite of pizza! At dinner, a fellow guest suggested we all sit next to someone new, and I think this was a fabulous way for the group to really get to know one another from the very beginning. We enjoyed a long meal with wine, the serenade of our guide Angelo strumming away on his guitar, and of course, limoncello!
Day Two:
We ride to Pienza, a gorgeous quintessential Tuscan village buzzing with locals. We cooled down from our morning ride with an ice cold beer (carbs are good for you!), and walked through the town center. I actually had to jump out of the way of two young girls riding their bicycles through town as we were on our way to find some of the region’s finest Porchetta. Lindsay, Lisa and I ordered up some sandwiches and enjoyed them on a stone wall overlooking one of the most gorgeous views we had all week. There’s a fantastic Porchetta place in my NYC neighborhood, but I’ll never be able to replicate the one I had in Pienza! We finish our ride for the day and head back to La Chiusa, completing a total of 23 miles. Bob and Bill were all stars in today’s riding, keeping the group moving quite swiftly. Already I am wishing I had done some kind of training for this riding! Some of the goup head back to get ready for dinner, while others stay and recap the day’s ride over a few Italian beers. The evening is only just beginning though, as we head out to our private wine tasting in Montefollonico.
Best place on earth for a porchetta sandwich!
Walking out to Vittorio’s garden was quite a memorable experience. The only sound to be heard were the “ooo’s and ahhh’s” of the group as each of us walked out the back door and took in the stunning view of Chiana Valley. There was a long table set up in the garden, and we enjoyed 3 tastings before heading off to dinner at Botte Piena. After another robust meal with succulent wines, the group was all looking forward to a walk home. We were in for a special treat on this night though, as there was a dance festival with local teenagers competing in the tango and other fabulous traditional dances just a few steps away from dinner. Feeling the wine and still somewhat strong legs after only two days of biking, the DuVine guests created their own dance party off to the side. Fellow guests Kristi and Michele tried recruiting some Italian dance partners for the dancing DuVine ladies, but none of them were brave enough to join us. We didn’t need them anyway though, since Seattle Michelle was good enough to share Sean with us for our dance party! We’d like to think the Italian women were jealous of our moves, but Davide and Angelo weren’t too sure about that…
With Vittorio
Day Three:
This was perhaps the most memorable day of cycling for me, as the views on the way to Montalcino were just breathtaking. It was a tough morning of rolling hills, and a stop in tiny Torrenieri for an espresso and some hydration prior to our climb to the Vecchia Oliveria. Fellow guest Laurie even got in some extra miles of her own today! The gorgeous ride ended with a challenging 7k climb into Montalcino. I have to thank my fellow cyclist Chris for getting me up this hill. As long as he was still in sight, I kept cranking away! Chris led the pack today and finished strong in Montalcino. Feeling quite accomplished at this point, we stood on the back terrace of the Vecchia Oliveria and cheered for our fellow riders as they came in to finish the climb!
View of Montalcino
With the afternoon to explore Montalcino, many in the group kept their momentum going with a walk around the village. For me, it was more pizza with Lindsay and Chris. We weren’t the only ones though, as we bumped into Bob and Kristi doing the very same thing just a few steps away. Several group members, myself included, hit the shops for some Brunello and Chianti Classico bike jerseys. We had a choice in evening festivities, and the group split up prior to dinner. Half of the group chose the exclusive cooking class in private townhouse owned by Lina and Domenico, while the other half indulged in a wine tasting at the fourteenth-century Fortress of Montalcino. The tasting was held inside the fortress at Enoteca la Fortezza di Montalcino. Lindsay went for the cooking class with several of the ladies and our chef tour guide, Davide. I, on the other hand, kind of prefer to have someone else do the cooking – so I joined the others and guide Angelo for a Brunello tasting. We enjoyed our wine and then experienced the absolute most magnificent sunset I’ve ever known. Finally, we met the rest of our group for dinner at Lina and Domenico’s, where we were enjoyed a fabulous homemade Tuscan feast!
Day Four:
We had an early start in Montalcino, and because of it we got to experience a seriously energizing sunrise from the breakfast room balcony of the Vecchia Oliveria. Everyone in our group opted for the early start so we could head down to Sant’Antimo to hear the tranquil and soothing Gregorian chanting. With the gang feeling zen, we enjoy some breakfast and began our longest ride of the week. We are greeted with a guest guide appearance by the DuVine Italian tour manager, Tom. Tom leads the way out of Montalcino (what a fabulous descent!) and off to our first stop, the Abbey of Monte Oliveto Maggiore. We have a tour and history lesson from Tom, and then our chef in spandex, Davide, presents us with a fabulous gourmet picnic lunch.
Once we conquer our final climb into Siena, Guide Angelo points out a shortcut for the final stretch into Siena, which honestly appears to be a cobblestone wall, that he rode vertically up. Most of us opted for the roundabout entrance to Siena, but Sean and Bob took Angelo’s challenge and defeated the pro level climb like it’s something they’ve been doing for years.
Siena was so alive! We had some time for recovery before dinner, and a few of us found the answer to that in the form of gelato in a walk through the streets of Siena. Oh, how delicious!
in Sienna
The night was supposed to be an “on your own for dinner” evening, but at this point our group had become so close that we opted to stick together for another group meal. Angelo and Davide even joined us on their night off! After dinner, we sat in the Piazza del Campo sipping limoncello, listening to fans of the Il Palio as they sang cheers and chants in support of their team’s horse that would be racing the following week.
Day Five:
We awaken in Siena and head out for our final day of riding. The legs are feeling pretty tired by this point, and more than ever do I wish I had done some kind of training for this trip. Even a week of spinning (or anything more than nothing!) probably would have helped, but still – I had enough to make it through each ride and love every moment of it. A few miles prior to our first stop, Lindsay and I made our own pit stop in San Felice for a roadside photo shoot with my camera on its timer. The perfectly manicured rows of grapes were mesmerizingly beautiful!
I really enjoyed the mid-ride tasting when we stopped at Castelli di Brolio. The reds were fantastic, and I happily accepted Lindsay’s portion of the tasting too, when she (perhaps for the wiser) decided to hydrate with water for the rest of the ride instead of some vino rosso. Feeling quite relaxed after our tasting, I spent some of the afternoon biking alongside fellow New Yorker and new friend, Lisa, and we soaked up the views together for several miles. Arriving in Chianti was an overwhelming mixed feeling of accomplishment for completing every single mile, and of sadness knowing that our trip was coming to an end.
poolside at Il Borgo de Vescine
The afternoon was spent with many of us recovering with a poolside cat nap at the Il Borgo de Vescine. After that we met in the early evening for our Chianti Classico tasting, just before our final dinner. Dinner was as expected; one of the most fabulous meals of my life. Davide and Angelo shared a special treat they put together for us just before our meal, and we even had an extra special treat from guest Kristi who wrote a song about the group and sang it to us after dinner! The group said goodnight to fellow DuVine guests Bruce and Linda, who were celebrating their 40th wedding anniversary, and we sipped limoncello into the night! We had some truly memorable laughs over the course of a short week, and I am so grateful to have been able to experience my second DuVine Adventure at this point in my life. I can honestly say that I’ve never experienced anything quite like it, and I’m looking forward to making DuVine memories for years to come!
It’s nearly impossible to choose just one, so here are my highlights from the week based on category!
Bike: Conquering the 7K (felt like a lot longer than that!) climb into Montalcino, jumping in the pool at the Vecchia Oliviera in bike gear, and cheering on our fellow riders who were making their way up the final stretch of road into Montalcino from the back balcony… what a high!
another climb conquered!
Eat: There wasn’t much of anything that I didn’t partake in foodwise (thank goodness for all of those miles biked!), but I think my favorite food item of the week was Dania’s pizza appetizer at La Chiusa. Being a New Yorker, I know how to appreciate excellent pizza! A shame Dania and Umberto don’t deliver to NYC…
Drink: I really enjoyed the mid-ride tasting on day 5 of biking when we stopped at Castelli di Brolio. I might not have biked in a straight line the rest of the way, but at least I made it to Chianti on my own two wheels!
Sleep: There wasn’t much sleep happening to be honest (why waste time sleeping when you are in this beautiful place?!), but waking up in Montalcino early enough to catch the sunrise before heading down to the Abbey of Sant’Antimo for a morning of Gregorian chanting was a pretty fantastic way to start the day.
DuVine Moment: Dancing in the street with my best friend and our group after dinner on our second night in Montefollonico, and then coming back to La Chiusi to drink limoncello with Umberto!
