DuVine’s very own Amanda Waddell just returned from a visit to Alsace, where she enjoyed one of the greatest cycling vacations of her life on our Alsace bike tour. Cycling from Strasbourg to Ebermunster, and enjoying all the delicious Alsatian Riesling and homemade sausage in between, she fell immediately in love with this gem on the eastern border of France. Here, she shares her experience on this cycling tour and her passion for the region.
J'adore Alsace!
As I arrived at the Strasbourg train station after a beautiful 2-hour train ride from Paris, I walked outside and the famed half-timbered buildings immediately caught my eye. A lovely woman from Tourisme Alsace drove a fellow traveler and me through the busy streets to our hotel, Hotel de L’Europe, in the center of town. The area actually turned out to be a neighborhood full of restaurants, shops, and hotels that consisted of mostly pedestrians. And yes, I was surrounded by the interesting architecture of the half-timbered buildings and would be for the next week. They made me feel like I was in a different world, because I was.
That night our group ate a full-course meal, stressing the word full, at the Maison des Tanneurs. The food just kept coming! The most memorable part of the meal was when a massive plate of choucroute (sauerkraut) came out accompanied with all different types of pig meat, which included sausage, fried liver, and ankle. Yes, ankle. I will try anything once, and I am glad I did, because that ankle was delicious! My fellow international groupmates were getting a kick out of the American eating ankle in Alsace. It set a great tone for the rest of the week.
A bike tour is the perfect way to see Alsace.
We got an early start on our bikes the next morning, riding through the flat bike paths of Strasbourg heading towards Soultz-les-Bains. Little did I know this was the last flat land that I would see for days. As I rode along the river bed through interspersing forests and fields, I saw many geese, horses, and a sprinkling of colorful homes all soaking up the morning sun.
We had an informative lunch visit at Domaine Doriath, a restaurant that farms their own ducks and produces their own foie gras, which is a French delicacy that can simply be described as fatty duck liver. The owner spoke to us in French, with our guide translating, and explained how they naturally raise and feed their ducks. They make sure to utilize all the parts of the duck and make over 60 products! After the tour we had lunch, and I tried the foie gras. It was explained to me that foie gras in Alsace is au naturel or sans les épices, without spices, while the foie gras, say in Bordeaux, has spices and herbs mixed in. In any case, I tried it, and I can certainly see the appeal, but it was just not my cup of tea. But I could appreciate it in the moment.
Heading back on our bikes towards Rosheim and Obernai, we stopped in little villages along the way. The hills were getting more and more apparent, but I was running on such adrenaline from the ever-surrounding beauty of Alsace that they were no bother. At the Ville d’Obernai Tourisme office we had a lovely welcome drink of sweet white wine and ropküche, a traditional specialty bread. Très magnifique! Our informative tour guide in Obernai explained the complex history of Alsace and how its borders have changed throughout the centuries from Germany to France to Germany to France and so on. That night our group spent the night and had a delicious meal of fresh fish at La cour d’Alsace hotel. The room that contains the hotel’s pool has these walls surrounding it that are painted by a German artist.
Foie gras is one of the rich local delicacies.
The next morning our group rode our bikes over to Gertwiller to the Museé du Pain d’épices, a specialty type of gingerbread, but better. I never knew how many types there were! Chocolate covered, with nuts, no nuts, sugared coating, etc. I was so inspired, and being the baker that I am, I baked my own loaf of pain d’épice when I returned back home.
We then rode through Andlau, which was breathtaking and quiet, and landed in Kintzheim to have lunch at the Auberge Saint-Martin. Here we had dish after dish of tarte flambée, a gastronomic Alsatian thin crust dish covered in fromage blanc, real Muenster cheese, onions, mushrooms, bacon, etc. Do not call it pizza, though. It is absolutely wonderful and melts in your mouth. Our next stop was Colmar, a charming city. The church bells seemed to be welcoming our group as we arrived by bicycle around 18h20. I am used to church bells ringing on the hour, and no one could figure out why they were ringing at this time, but it was a beautiful experience to hear while riding.
The next day our group participated in a wonderful wine tasting at Wolfberger in Eguisheim. We tasted absolutely wonderful white wines such as Gewürztraminer and Rangen. It was a hard decision to choose, but I decided to bring back a bottle Rangen, an Alsace Grand Cru Pinot Gris. While I like a dry wine myself, this sweet dessert type wine was too delicious to leave in Alsace.
The Church of St. Maurice in Ebermunster.
On our last day in Alsace we visited one of the most beautiful churches I have ever seen, the Church of Saint Maurice in Ebermunster. As our group was walking in, the organ started playing, just like the church bells in Colmar! The intricately painted décor inside the church was unlike anything I have ever seen, and mixed with the organ playing, the experience was quite humbling. And the light that came through the windows was just perfect. I was completely enamored by this church and could have spent all day in there.
The time had come to head to Paris, and while I was looking forward to the next leg of my trip, I wanted to stay in Alsace. There is something charming and magical about the region. Images of rolling hills and vineyards, castles, colorful half-timbered houses, exquisitely decorated village centers, smiling townspeople, storks and stork nests atop buildings, and beautiful scenery everywhere keep running through my mind. And the rich food, oh it’s so delicious, is a perfect accompaniment to the biking. And the wines are just spectacular and beautiful. And the mixture of French and German culture and heritage blends so well at every point you turn. Everything is just lovely about Alsace. J’adore l’Alsace!
